LBV Roundup

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uncle tom
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LBV Roundup

Post by uncle tom »

At any one time there are about a hundred LBVs on offer from the various producers. Keeping up with that number is a bit daunting.

So, as I have no fireworks to light tonight, here are 24 producers who seem to me to merit some attention:

- Tax exclusive prices shown are from Portugal Vineyards

1) J H Andresen

Sound and proven over time in the LBV stakes - £13.87 (2014)

The company also has a second label LBV under the Cambridge brand which appears to be filtered.

2) Barão de Vilar

A value brand yet with decent critical acclaim, currently on offer at £9.75 (2014)

3) Churchill

Appears to release LBV in two tranches, through merchants at around five years and ex lodge a decade later. The back labels placed on the ex lodge bottles suggest they should have been drunk already!

A good player, but a little high end on price - £19.24 (2015)

4) Crasto

Good critical acclaim for a reliable producer - £16.22 (2015)

5) Cruz

Yes, Cruz! This company has taken to releasing LBVs at around 16 to 17 years of age and gaining respectable reviews. A very reasonable price, given the age - £13.28 (2003)

6) Dalva

Another name that is not often associated with quality wines in the ruby spectrum, Dalva currently has three LBVs on offer, filtered, unfiltered and bottle matured.

The 2011 unfiltered LBV scored 92pts from Robert Parker, the highest score (alongside Noval) for any of the current crop of LBVs. The 2002 bottle matured is also the oldest LBV offered by PV – both are offered at £18.80

7) De la Rosa

An often seen player in the LBV stakes, the current offering scored 91 pts from Wine Enthusiast - £15.71 (2014)

8) Ferreira

The Sogrape houses seem to be in the ascendant at the moment. This wine has enjoyed good acclaim and is moderately priced - £13.80 (2015)

9) Fonseca

A longstanding player in the quality LBV stakes, the current Fonseca is well-reviewed and reasonably priced - £13.43 (2014)

10) Javali

For the past decade, this producer has cropped up regularly in lists of declared VPs, yet I don’t think I’ve ever seen a bottle.

And no obvious reviews of the LBV either.

A mystery this one, but high end priced so they must think it’s good.

Included for intrigue value - £19.24 (2013)

11) Messias

Messias currently offers two LBVs, a 2013 which is currently the cheapest LBV offered by PV at £7.32, yet nevertheless gained a 90pt score from RP.

They also have a 2004 on offer (from Q. Cachao) at £18.87

Not clear whether they intend to settle on a double release, or are just clearing some remnant stock, however the 2013 looks stunning value, given the score.

12) Niepoort

Dirk does not market his LBVs as unfiltered, but they always have driven corks and age very well. One of the earliest to release, the 2016 is probably not far away. Excellent value - £11.07 (2015)

13) Nova

Not to be confused with Noval, Nova seems to be a competent player, the current offering earning a 90pt RP score - £14.61 (2014)

14) Noval

Noval offers both filtered and unfiltered LBV, and just to confuse matters further, the current unfiltered offering is younger than the filtered.

At £18.80, the 2011 filtered seems to be putting faith in the vintage year rather than the critical acclaim. The 2013 unfiltered however earned 92 pts from RP - £17.47

15) Offley

Well reviewed and reasonably priced, another good Sogrape offering - £13.21 (2014)

16) Pacheca

I don’t know much about this producer or indeed wine, aside from a reasonable price relative to its reviews. I’m not even sure if it is unfiltered or has a driven cork, the photos look a bit ambiguous.

But this company has a very tasteful designer in tow, so even if the content disappoints, the bottle looks good - £12.47 (2014)

17) Portal

A brand I’ve been aware of for ages, yet no certain recollection of ever trying one of their wares.

Another elegant bottle design, and this time assuredly unfiltered - £15.49 (2013)

18) Quevedo

Every other producer either says unfiltered, or leaves you guessing. Quevedo however states that they use ‘soft filtration’ on their LBVs.

A sound middle road player both in terms of reviews and pricing - £13.65 (2014)

19) Ramos Pinto

A company that takes LBV very seriously, their most recent offering earning the highest LBV score from the Portuguese Vinho Grandes Escolhas - £17.92 (2014)

20) Romaneira

Well reviewed with a mid range price, listed as unfiltered - £14.31 (2014)

21) Sandeman

The 2015 Sandeman LBV was definitely a cut above the older offerings when their LBV vertical was shown at the BFT last year. 91pts from RP - £14.90 (2015)

22) Tecedeiras

Well reviewed, unfiltered wine, slightly on the expensive side, but perhaps worth a voyage of discovery to sample this little seen producer’s wares - £17.99 (2014)

23) Vista Alegre

Billed not only as unfiltered, but also as having big aging potential. The latest offering not only has an excellent critical rating but is also one of the cheapest. Superb value - £9.82 (2013)

24) Warre

Last but not least, the best known of the unfiltered LBVs. Whilst sometimes credited as the best unfiltered LBV, it has a lot of competition these days. The current offering is 2007 but the 2008 appears to be imminent - £15.41

- So, what great names have I missed out?
I may be drunk, Miss, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly - W.S. Churchill
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hadge
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by hadge »

Tom, I was wondering what your view is of Taylor's, Graham's, Dow's and Cockburn's LBV selection? they all seem to be on the cheap end of the market, except for Dow?
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JacobH
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by JacobH »

uncle tom wrote: 17:08 Thu 05 Nov 2020So, as I have no fireworks to light tonight
It’s a strange turn of events that for, presumably the same reason, I lit some fireworks for the first time tonight in many years!
uncle tom wrote: 17:08 Thu 05 Nov 2020- So, what great names have I missed out?
I’m going to limit myself to LBVs I’ve drunk within the last five years, to filter out all sorts of oddities (Fim de Século, anyone?). Most of these are from recent years, although a couple are from older stashes I bought in the past.

Croft: I’ve drunk 14 bottles of the 2005 and 10 halves of the 2003 over the last decade. They are both very good. Has anyone tried anything more recent?

Dow: The 2009 seemed rather basic, as a I might expect for a high-volume filtered supermarket LBV (that used to be insanely cheap).

Duorum: I tried the 2011 but didn’t take a note.

Graham: The 2012 was in a similar category to the Dow: simple filtered LBV. A bit disappointing.

Poças Júnior: I liked the 2011 at a walk-around tasting but didn’t take any detailed notes.

Smith Woodhouse: The only LBV I’ve seen or drunk was some 1995 which looked to me like it was a stash of bottles that the Symingtons hoped might be sold as a buyer’s own brand but then became Smith Woodhouse when it became a bit too old for those purposes; neither the cork or the bottom capsule were branded. It was rather good though. Probably worth picking up if you see it.

Quinta do Estanho: I tried the 2009 but didn’t take a note.

Quinta do Infantado: I am big fans of this producer’s LBV which is genuine, Portuguese-style Vintage Port. Most recently, I’ve opened another bottle of the 2004 which was excellent.

Quinta do Passadouro: I think these Ports were made by Neipoort or in collaboration with them but might be wrong. I’ve tried a few LBVs over the years, most recently the 2007 which I seemed to like.

Quinta de Santa Eufémia: This is Portuguese-style unfiltered LBV. I tried the 2013 at the start of this year. I think it was quite a serious wine, albeit quite dry and reserved at this point. I have a feeling the bottle was quite expensive, though.

Quinta do Sagrado: I tried the 2010 a few years ago which was ok but I don’t have detailed notes.

Royal Oporto: I’ve had the (filtered, I think) 2010 twice at Christmas parties. I have not been impressed but it at all.

Taylor: I recently tried the 2015. This really impressed me for a filtered, supermarket Port. I’d happily drink it!

Vieira de Sousa: Again, I tried the 2008 but didn’t take a note.

Some thought arising from your notes:

Checking my notes for Ramos Pinto, you are quite right that this is a serious wine. I’d never really appreciated that before but I have consistently rated it when I’ve had it on-and-off. I’m going to look out for it now.

I had some Quinta da Pacheca 2003 many years ago (c.2009 maybe?). I didn’t really like it but it was obviously an unfiltered bottle.

You should certainly visit Quinta do Portal when you get the chance! I had a couple of bottles of the 2000 a couple of years ago which was unfiltered and very drinkable (even if not one for the long haul).
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Doggett
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by Doggett »

Croft had a very lovey 2011 LBV at good value through Majestic a few years ago. I tend to go for the Barao (Maynards/Fletchers), Sandeman, Noval, Quevedo and some of the older Warre’s. I hope that gives me a good spread of quality on a budget.
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by Glenn E. »

JacobH wrote: 22:13 Thu 05 Nov 2020 Smith Woodhouse: The only LBV I’ve seen or drunk was some 1995 which looked to me like it was a stash of bottles that the Symingtons hoped might be sold as a buyer’s own brand but then became Smith Woodhouse when it became a bit too old for those purposes; neither the cork or the bottom capsule were branded. It was rather good though. Probably worth picking up if you see it.
Smith Woodhouse LBVs are deliberately bottle aged before release. I think that's sort of the SW "thing" for their LBVs. As I recall they're aged for a minimum of 8 years before being released, but can be aged longer. The 1995 was the first of these that I encountered (probably circa 2007-2010) and it was fantastic. I didn't like later vintages as much, but didn't realize at the time that they'd received less bottle aging prior to release.
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by Andy Velebil »

3) Churchill

Appears to release LBV in two tranches, through merchants at around five years and ex lodge a decade later. The back labels placed on the ex lodge bottles suggest they should have been drunk already!
What do they put on the back label?
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JacobH
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by JacobH »

Glenn E. wrote: 22:52 Thu 05 Nov 2020 Smith Woodhouse LBVs are deliberately bottle aged before release. I think that's sort of the SW "thing" for their LBVs. As I recall they're aged for a minimum of 8 years before being released, but can be aged longer. The 1995 was the first of these that I encountered (probably circa 2007-2010) and it was fantastic. I didn't like later vintages as much, but didn't realize at the time that they'd received less bottle aging prior to release.
Interesting. I wonder why the corks and the inner capsule just say “LBV 1995” and not “Smith Woodhouse” or “SW”?

A few Google Image searches show that LBV has been made from most of the Symington’s other second-tier Port labels* like Gould Campbell, Quarles Harris and Martinez but I don’t think I’ve ever seen any of them for sale. I wonder how often they make them or what they are like?

[* “second-tier” probably isn’t the right expression, but you know what I mean!]
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uncle tom
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by uncle tom »

Tom, I was wondering what your view is of Taylor's, Graham's, Dow's and Cockburn's LBV selection? they all seem to be on the cheap end of the market, except for Dow?
I was focusing on the unfiltered and very lightly filtered LBVs that should have ample ability to bottle age.

Taylor ages to advantage for over a decade before starting to tire due to filtration, Graham seems to tire a little sooner. The more recent Dow's are throwing loads of sediment, so appear to be unfiltered despite being T stoppered. Very old Dow LBVs are not far removed from vintage of the same era, but I am less confident about the bottles from the 80s and 90s. I've not tried recent Cockburn LBVs, but the bottles from the eighties are showing a little tired now.
What do they [Churchill] put on the back label?
My stash is buried now, so I can't get the exact wording, but from memory it says something like: 'drink within 5-7 years of bottling' - this on bottles being released after ten years bottle aging..
I may be drunk, Miss, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly - W.S. Churchill
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by Glenn E. »

JacobH wrote: 11:45 Fri 06 Nov 2020
Glenn E. wrote: 22:52 Thu 05 Nov 2020 Smith Woodhouse LBVs are deliberately bottle aged before release. I think that's sort of the SW "thing" for their LBVs. As I recall they're aged for a minimum of 8 years before being released, but can be aged longer. The 1995 was the first of these that I encountered (probably circa 2007-2010) and it was fantastic. I didn't like later vintages as much, but didn't realize at the time that they'd received less bottle aging prior to release.
Interesting. I wonder why the corks and the inner capsule just say “LBV 1995” and not “Smith Woodhouse” or “SW”?
I don't think that how an LBV's cork is branded indicates much of anything. I've seen VP with "generic" corks, too, and you'd think those would all be specifically labeled.

I've seen LBV corks with just the vintage year, just the brand name, both, and neither. I.e. fairly non-specific corks that could have other uses. "LBV 1995" is actually fairly specific in that respect, as that cork can't be used for much else. A BOB as you mentioned, but that's about it.
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by Andy Velebil »

Regarding corks. Branding adds to the cost and then that batch of corks can only be used for a specific bottle. Why most wine companies around the world use generic corks for most wines bottled is the reduced cost and flexibility of use. It just makes fiscal sense for most bottles.
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by uncle tom »

Regarding corks. Branding adds to the cost and then that batch of corks can only be used for a specific bottle. Why most wine companies around the world use generic corks for most wines bottled is the reduced cost and flexibility of use. It just makes fiscal sense for most bottles.
A worry is the cost-cutting trend toward printing corks rather than branding them. I'm not sure how widespread this is in the port trade, but I really worry that when printed corks become old and lose their structural integrity, the text will either degrade and vanish, or rub off as the cork is drawn.
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by rich_n »

This is a really very helpful round up! I may get a few bottles in - I'm intrigued by the Porto Cruz and the Niepoort in particular.
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by JacobH »

I was intrigued by Tom's comments on the Cruz, too, since I'm not sure I've ever tried any of their products, despite it being omnipresent in Porto. I suppose I probably ought to acquire one and also a bottle of the Cruz Pink which I've been using for my avatar for years without trying!
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by winesecretary »

@rich_n - the Niepoort 2015 LBV is really very good, a significant advance on the 2014. I haven't yet seen or tried the 2016 Tom adverts to above.
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by rich_n »

winesecretary wrote: 00:17 Thu 19 Nov 2020 @rich_n - the Niepoort 2015 LBV is really very good, a significant advance on the 2014. I haven't yet seen or tried the 2016 Tom adverts to above.
I checked my cellar and it turns out I've already acquired some (I suspect on your recommendation), so I focused on some that I haven't already acquired. I'm also testing out some of the whites and tawnies to see if there's some cellar defenders I might stock up on.
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by JacobH »

rich_n wrote: 11:46 Thu 19 Nov 2020I'm also testing out some of the whites and tawnies to see if there's some cellar defenders I might stock up on.
The colheitas are worth trying, too, if you come across any, including the younger ones. And don’t be afraid of older dusty bottles: Dirk Niepoort has said that he likes them with a bit of bottle age.
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uncle tom
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Re: LBV Roundup

Post by uncle tom »

Dirk Niepoort has said that he likes them with a bit of bottle age.
For 'a bit' read half a century or so..
I may be drunk, Miss, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly - W.S. Churchill
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