Advice in visiting Oporto

[benread]

Next year I turn 40 and in conjunction with 4 friends have been planning this (and their own) celebration for some time. We have already visisted Talinn (2004), Vilnius (2006), Munich (2007) with Krakow to come (May 2009). My friends are all port drinkers, albeit not quite as regular as myself! (For which I blame TPF!)

I intend to select Oporto as my destination, it being my second trip after an early relationship visit with the (now) wife in 2003. The exact timing of the visit is still to be agreed, but is likely to be Spring 2010.

I would like to spend a couple of nights in Oporto itself, but am also very interested in a trip up the Douro. One other thing I would like to do is arrange a more formal dinner at which we can sample some more enjoyable ports in comfort. It would probably be 3 nights in total, so time is a little tight.

Any suggestions on places to visit, stay or eat would be gratefully received. The plan would be to book flights and accomodation shortly after we return from Krakow.

Thank you.

[DRT]

Ben,

This sounds like fun!

There are lots of hotels in Oporto, less in VNG, and I'm sure you will find something on Expedia or similar. Tom, Fred and I stayed at a good hotel in Oporto in October 08 but I can't remember the name of it - Perhaps Tom will.

The train ride from Oporto to Regua (at the west end of the Douro region) takes around 2 hours. You normally have to change there to catch a train to Pinhao and I have always found it takes too much time waiting around. If you take a taxi from Regua to Pinhao you will be there in 30 minutes at reasonable cost, especially with a group.

If you are planning a quick blast up the Douro for 1 night I would recommend either Quinta de la Rosa or Quinta do Passadouro as places to stay. Both are just a short distance from Pinhao and offer good accomodation. Passadouro might be a better option for a group as it has a bar - I stayed at la Rosa last year and I think a twin room cost me 70 Euro per night.

If you want to spend a few more Euros on a more luxurious experience then the Vintage House hotel in Pinhao is an option. The far end of the scale is Quinta da Romaniera. 5 star luxury like you can only dream of for the reasonable sum of 1000 Euro per person per night

There are lots of people here who can hopefully set-up some lodge and Quinta visits for you. If you can give us an idea of the size of the group and how interested they will be in visits/tasting we can come up with some ideas for you.

Derek

[Glenn E.]

If you want a really top-flight hotel in Porto and aren't too worried about budget, the Pestana Porto is a fantastic place. And that has nothing to do with the fact that it is 1 block from Vinologia and 1 block from AVEPOD. It is also about a block from Ponte Dom Luis I which you can easily walk across to get to Vila Nova de Gaia and the Port lodges. As I recall the Pestana is around (or maybe slightly below) 200 Euros for a room per night.

In Pinhao, Derek's recommendations are good ones. Quinta de la Rosa is a great B&B, but might be too casual for the type of trip it sounds like you're putting together. La Rosa is a great base in Pinhao if you plan to spend a few days relaxing, but it's a kilometer west of town so not really the greatest place to stay on a quick trip unless you will have a car.

The Vintage House Hotel would be an excellent place to have your "event" dinner, though it is on the expensive side. They have (or at least did when I was there) a pretty nice selection of Port in their store, but again somewhat on the expensive side.

Another possible location for your "event" dinner would be the DOC Restaurant, which is in a little town a few kilometers west of Pinhao on N222. Off the top of my head I don't remember the name of the town, but the restaurant sits between the road and the river so you really can't miss it. Folgosa, maybe? That sounds right.

Sounds like a fun trip!

[jdaw1]

with 4 friends

Well, that can’t include all of us. Who is in? And who out?

With the 2008 harvest tour I stayed at Quinta do Portal very fine.

[DRT]

with 4 friends

Well, that can’t include all of us. Who is in? And who out?

I believe Ben is the only port-drinking maniac on this trip, so know-one else you know.

With the 2008 harvest tour I stayed at Quinta do Portal very fine.

Indeed it is. But perhaps rather remote for a 1 night visit?

[ac-fast]

Quinta do Portal has got the price - best of wine tourisem 2007 and 2009 - very nice place to stay. - check there website

It take about 15 min. to drive to Pinhao from Portal.

In Porto I stayed at hotel Mercure Bartalha, in center of Porto. not expensive.

[uncle tom]

Tom, Fred and I stayed at a good hotel in Oporto in October 08 but I can't remember the name of it - Perhaps Tom will.

I'm struggling to remember it's name also...

The Holiday Inn in VNG is quite a practical hotel, a short tram ride (or moderate walk) from the lodges (although you need to climb the hill from the lodge area to get to the tram stop)

Tom

[Axel P]

I would go for the Hotel da Bolsa (20m from the IVDP) in Porto for Hotel or for the Grande Hotel Paris, both are in walking distance from Sao Bento (the station closest to the bridge).

If you want to try typical portuguese food, try tromba rija (http://www.trombarija.com/gaia-rg.html), but book in advance, since it is always sold out.

In Pinhao I would do as Derek recommended, pick Passadouro or la Rosa and tell them (either Sofia or Jorge) who sent you.

If anything else comes up, you might want to ask more specifically, such as: who can organise a tasting at Porto Cruz? or so.

All the best

The 2 days elder one

[RonnieRoots]

Passadouro is always a very nice place to visit. And a good place to taste some very good wines and ports, not only of the quinta but also Pintas, Niepoort and whatever else happens to be around.

DOC is indeed a good recommendation for a good dinner in the Douro. Apparently, there is a new restaurant just opposite of DOC now, that's supposed to be good as well, but I haven't been there yet. If you're intending to visit Regua, I've heard there's a pretty good new restaurant in the railway station.

In Porto, Vinologia and Avepod are the obvious choices. But I also have a soft spot for the Solar do Vinho do Porto. Granted, the service is terrible, and they hardly ever have what they promise on the menu, but nothing can beat the view. Sunset on the terrace, a good glass of port in your hand, what more can you wish for?

Another recommendation is the restaurant in the Taylor lodge. It has a wonderful terrace, with gorgeous views over the roofs of the lodges to the city of Porto. LadyR and I had a good lunch there to celebrate 1/2 year of marriage, accompanied by 1/2 bottle of Guimaraens 1987. And it was actually quite decently priced.

If you plan to visit lodges (and you should!) make sure to plan ahead and make some appointments, in order to taste something better than the standard white and ruby. If you've never been there, the Niepoort lodge is a must. Simply one of the most authentic and stunning places you'll find in Porto.

Have fun!

[Glenn E.]

I'll second the recommendation of the restaurant at the Taylor lodge - it is magnificent. I highly recommend the patio if the weather is nice enough, because the view is wonderful. But I've heard that eating inside the restaurant itself is also very nice.

Tromba Rija is my favorite restaurant in all of Porto/Vila Nova de Gaia, but it is a more casual environment. It is noisy, everyone is very friendly, and the food is fantastic. But I think you would feel out of place wearing a suit there, while a suit would feel perfectly natural in the restaurant at the Taylor lodge. (Though dockers and a polo shirt are also fine at Taylor's.)

I'd almost forgotten the Solar do Vinho do Porto. I think it's a great place, but it's not at all the same as Vinologia. I thought the service was fine, but the Solar is someplace you go to for quiet conversation, perhaps a cigar, and the view. Vinologia is where you go if you want to sample dozens of fine Ports. The Solar had everything we asked for off the menu, but we weren't ordering anything all too fancy. There is a soft spot in my heart for it as well, because it was at the Solar that I first tried Ramos Pinto's Quinta do Bom Retiro 20-yr Old Tawny, which is now my house Port.

Speaking of Ramos Pinto, that's another lodge that you should put on your short list for touring while in Porto. They have their own museum in their original HQ building which is attached to the lodge, and the tour is very nice. You should call and arrange the tour in advance, though, because that way you'll be able to choose the language for your tour. If you just show up at the lodge you may end up on a Spanish tour, or (like we did the first time) a Portuguese tour. Eu compreendo um pouco português... but not enough for a tour!

[benread]

Trip booked! 28th - 31st May. Thinking Friday night in Porto then Saturday and Sunday possibly at Quinta do Passadouro, based on recommendations here.

[benread]

I am ressurecting this thread as D-Day approaches and to see if anyone has any specific recommendations whilst we are in Porto (Staying at Grand Hotel de Paris - thanks to Axel - Friday 28th May - afternoon and Saturday 29th May morning) or Pinhao (staying at Passadouro - thanks to Derek, Axel, Ronnie ) on 29th and 30th May.

I would like to make just one or two memorable lodge visits on Friday afternoon to allow time for dinner and drinks in the evening (Vinologia sounds like a strong recommendation).

Of the 5 of us, 4 were involved in consuming a Graham 1966 and 1970 and a Sandeman 1966 and 1970 on election night, so any way suggestions that include continuing that theme would have a nice link!

Thank you.

[DRT]

Of the 5 of us, 4 were involved in consuming a Graham 1966 and 1970 and a Sandeman 1966 and 1970 on election night, so any way suggestions that include continuing that theme would have a nice link!

Some of the lodges will allow you to order Vintage Ports in advance of your arrival so that they can have them decanted in good time before you drink them. I think Corft and Taylor both do this but you would have to call ahead and pay for the bottles in advance. An alternative would be to take a 66 and a 70 with you and drink them in one of the restaurants on the Riebera overlooking VNG?

Where are you visiting in the Douro?

I have sent you an email about Friday afternoon

Derek

[Andy Velebil]

Some of the lodges will allow you to order Vintage Ports in advance of your arrival so that they can have them decanted in good time before you drink them. I think Corft and Taylor both do this but you would have to call ahead and pay for the bottles in advance. An alternative would be to take a 66 and a 70 with you and drink them in one of the restaurants on the Riebera overlooking VNG?

Where are you visiting in the Douro?

I have sent you an email about Friday afternoon

Derek

I also think Graham's will do this as well if you call ahead and pay up front for the bottle.

[benread]

Where are you visiting in the Douro?

We have nothing arranged yet beyond our accomodation at Quinta do Passadouro, although I hope to have one visit arranged - a small producer we have both met. I understand a tour at Passadouro is also worth some time?

[Andy Velebil]

Although a bit touristy, Sandeman's Quinta do Sexio is a very nice place to visit and has some great views where you can buy a glass or three and enjoy the great views of the Douro river below and the other vineyards across the river...worth the visit for sure.

[Roy Hersh]

Ben,

Sorry we're gonna miss one another by about a week. I hope you have a great time and especially in the Douro.

From a purely historical standpoint, one of the truly great and oft overlooked Port lodges is Ferreira. Take a ton of photographs, you can never have too many and it is easy to weed out the less than great ones.

[uncle tom]

Sandeman's Quinta do Sexio

Sounds like a fun place...

I think you'll find it's spelt Seixo - something on your mind Andy..??

Tom

[Andy Velebil]

Sandeman's Quinta do Sexio

Sounds like a fun place...

I think you'll find it's spelt Seixo - something on your mind Andy..??

Tom

maybe

[DRT]

time for dinner and drinks in the evening (Vinologia sounds like a strong recommendation

I have let our good friends Gustavo and Goncalo know you may be visiting so be sure to introduce yourself so that you can be assured of a warm welcome

[benread]

Many thanks to one and all for the advice so far. We are staying at a hotel recommended by Axel in Porto, a Quinta recomennded by a number of people in Pinhao, visiting a lodge in VNG courtesy of an introduction from Derek and a Quinta in the Douro following my good fortune to meet one of the newer producers at a tasting in February.

Hopefully we also have dinner booked at a restaurant recommended by Axel.

We shall not be breaking any new ground on behalf of TPFers but I have no doubt we shall have an excellent weekend!

Reports to follow next week.

[benread]

Well. Great visit to Graham's in VNG yesterday. Tasting included vesuvio 1994. Now on way to Pinhao. Passadouro and Quevedo await. Super bock to keep throat lubricatef on the train!