1983 Fonseca
Posted: 22:12 Wed 15 Mar 2017
Pale in colour with a very clear meniscus, but all reds and pinks with little or no perceptible browning.
The nose seems almost non-existent, a hint of spirit and dust.
This port steals across the palate on satin slippers, beautifully soft and composed making a long clear arc which begins with sweetness and surges to finish with a bite of tannin and salinity. A long finish for such a gentle wine. There is some treacle, some spice, cloves in particular. There is little fruit, but a hint of Newberry Fruits, for those of us who remember such things, a melting quality. I do not think it has finished developing.
I will allow I am biased in favour of this style of port, not to the exclusion of the rather more bombastic Fonseca 85s of this world. But it seems graceful, in ways which I cannot imagine the 85 ever achieving. And while I know the comparison will draw snorts of derision from very good judges of port it has much more in common with the Fonseca 77, or even with Taylor ports.
Anyhow, back to earth for the points; 88. But not for me, many more for me.
The nose seems almost non-existent, a hint of spirit and dust.
This port steals across the palate on satin slippers, beautifully soft and composed making a long clear arc which begins with sweetness and surges to finish with a bite of tannin and salinity. A long finish for such a gentle wine. There is some treacle, some spice, cloves in particular. There is little fruit, but a hint of Newberry Fruits, for those of us who remember such things, a melting quality. I do not think it has finished developing.
I will allow I am biased in favour of this style of port, not to the exclusion of the rather more bombastic Fonseca 85s of this world. But it seems graceful, in ways which I cannot imagine the 85 ever achieving. And while I know the comparison will draw snorts of derision from very good judges of port it has much more in common with the Fonseca 77, or even with Taylor ports.
Anyhow, back to earth for the points; 88. But not for me, many more for me.