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For what do the Americans give thanks? Of course, it is for the opportunity to open a Fonseca 1970.

Opened at 11:30am, with the decanter-priming sample being very dark. This still looks young. There’s no blue, so not extremely youthful, but neither is there brown could easily be 19 years old rather than double that. Nose at D+0 less than expected, with more heat there and in the mouth. Lovely damson flavour though. It will improve over the next few hours.

Goose about to go into the oven.

At 9pm, after a goodly selection of the works of Bachus, I return to the Fonseca 1970. ‟Tasty”, says a guest. Yes, but slightly too bitter, too astringent, to be perfect. But it is by that standard by which it is judged, and falls short. Great port: fruit, sugar, balance and length: the world is invited by to ‘insult’ me with an F70 any time of its pleasing.