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AHB and DRT and RAYC tested Davy’s new location, the Steak Exchange of 2 Exchange Square EC2A 2EH, +44 20 7256 5962.

Links:

• Review of the evening as a whole, and of the Steak Exchange;
• 1948 Taylor;
• 1967 Cockburn;
• 1970 Dalva;
• 1991 Graham;
• Placemats.

An unknown bottle, with a mid-shoulder fill that appeared to have leaked in the past and been sealed with a soft black wax or pitch-like compound many years ago. Glowing red colour, 60% opaque, looking rich and mature. Rosemary and antiseptic dominate the nose, strong and off-putting. Dry, slightly harsh, entry and with a very dry mid-palate - little obvious immediate fruit and lots of rosemary. Hints of sweetness on the aftertaste and then a very, very long finish of red licorice. This improved slightly in the glass but was clearly a compromised bottle. Guesses were F60 (RAYC), T63 (DRT), D63 (AHB). The cork was removed from the bottle and was clearly branded. 85/100.

A glass of this was kindly saved for me by DRT and was drunk the following night and was unrecognisable from the wine almost finished at TSE. With 24 hours in the decanter, this had lost all the strange smell and had become a deep flavoured, sweet bruiser of a port with intense flavours and a very long finish. Based on the port drunk after 24 hours decanting, I would (a) recommend a long decant for T48 and (b) push the score up to 92/100. What a fabulous glass of port that was after all.

My note from the first glass says: "Lovely dark golden red. Babby's nappy smell. Quite tannic and robust. Feels younger than it looks. Some heat on the end. Taylor 1963"

This did improve as the night went on and, happily, seems to have got even better he next day for the person who very kindly brought it along

AHB wrote:With 24 hours in the decanter, this had lost all the strange smell and had become a deep flavoured, sweet bruiser of a port with intense flavours and a very long finish. Based on the port drunk after 24 hours decanting, I would (a) recommend a long decant for T48 and (b) push the score up to 92/100. What a fabulous glass of port that was after all.

I have had similar experiences with a variety of Ports consumed at a variety of steak houses. The consistency is remarkable, and I'm beginning to think that a steak house is not a good setting for a tasting at which one would like to take notes.

It is an excellent setting for a drinking, however.

Glenn E. wrote:

AHB wrote:With 24 hours in the decanter, this had lost all the strange smell and had become a deep flavoured, sweet bruiser of a port with intense flavours and a very long finish. Based on the port drunk after 24 hours decanting, I would (a) recommend a long decant for T48 and (b) push the score up to 92/100. What a fabulous glass of port that was after all.

I have had similar experiences with a variety of Ports consumed at a variety of steak houses. The consistency is remarkable, and I'm beginning to think that a steak house is not a good setting for a tasting at which one would like to take notes.

It is an excellent setting for a drinking, however.

The nose on that port had absolutely nothing to do with being served in a steak house. It was horrible. That said, I can relate to what you are talking about, Glenn, as fatty smells and tastes do tend to dull the senses. But the Steak Exchange is a brand new, clinically clean restaurant. I didn't have any sense of being in a steak house until the big lumps of dead cow arrived on the table