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AHB and DRT and RAYC tested Davy’s new location, the Steak Exchange of 2 Exchange Square EC2A 2EH, +44 20 7256 5962.

Links:

• Review of the evening as a whole, and of the Steak Exchange;
• 1948 Taylor;
• 1967 Cockburn;
• 1970 Dalva;
• 1991 Graham;
• Placemats.

Oh dear! The cork fell into the bottle when trying to get the corkscrew to grip and the port came out a very pale orange, perhaps 5% opaque. On the nose, this smells of curacao and damp yeast. Some sweetness in the mouth, with very little flavour at first. Air releases a plastic flavour that clings to the inside of the mouth and dominates the aftertaste and finish. Sadly, the bottle is as bad as the colour led to be expected. NR.

My note says: "The colour of brandy. Yeasty nose, like the T45 tasted at Noval in 2009. Oranges - very tawny and very viscous - almost waxy in the mouth."

This was truly horrid at first but I did go back for a glass five hours later and found it drinkable. It will never be known whether it was the changed state of me or the wine that was the explanation for this.