An unusual year - overrated, classic or exceptionell?
My tasting notes:
Now that I have on several occasions, most of the wines several times, partially blind, I am of the opinion that 2009 was a very good year for vintage port. Some wines are excellent, even if you have to say in general that were produced by all wineries, due to the low income, rather small amounts. The best wines are in the nose closed and appear extremely full-bodied on the palate with an incredibly concentrated, powerful, but not one-dimensional fruit and a great structure of the more present, but moderate acidity and a good dose of tannins is worn. At these ports, we are determined, the next five decades, a lot of fun. In contrast, the 2007 is less full-bodied and fruity, and elegant, and presumably more accessible earlier. I personally would have declared for the houses both cohorts, prefer the 2009 over the 2007s. In just over 25 years we should be smarter, but 2007 has been rather separated the chaff from the wheat, and there are many good next to some mediocre ports (which is of course also remember that was quantitatively produced significantly more VP in 2007). The stars of the 2009 vintage for me are Niepoort, Fonseca and Taylor, who I see at 19 and 18.5 (93-95) points. Behind that Burmester Quinta do Arnozelo, Quinta do Vesuvio and Croft followed.
My Notes (in alphabetical order):
Q. BURMESTER Thurs Arnozelo 2009 VP: Surprise of the vintage. On the nose, a beautiful floral and fruity, which is reflected on the palate as well. Blackberries, cherries and currants dominate act, but not "simple fruity" but will be accompanied by a good structure and elegant with present tannins and a nice acidity. Long finish, I'm very curious to see how this port the next decades further developed.
CROFT 2009 VP: Very closed nose takes time, highly concentrated, but rather blackberry, medium - strong sweetness, moderate tannins, long finish. At least since 2003, Croft again on the top, even if it is safe to be not as durable as his "sisters" Taylor and Fonseca.
DOW - Senhora da Ribeira 2009 VP: Beautiful bouquet of blackberries and violets. On the palate, fairly acidic, medium bodied and with a distinct sweetness and fruit dominance, which is rather untypical for Dow. Nevertheless, a good single Quinta port.
DUORUM Vinha Castelo Melhor 2009 VP: Black red with slight purple rim, very closed bouquet. On the palate initially fruity berry and black cherry, medium sweetness, full body, then come in the finish thick, almost rustic tannins. From its design is a classic vintage port, currently difficult to assess. The project Duorum, which celebrated its premiere at the 2007 vintage port sector, one should keep in mind in any case.
FONSECA 2009 VP: One of my favorites - majestic and classic. Like Taylor, extremely concentrated and powerful body, but Stressed fruit (blackberries, blueberries) and with a clear, almost tart acidity, which creates complexity, however, and this port sip makes interesting, long finish, good tannin structure.
Niepoort 2009 VP: Very closed nose, takes time. On the palate, also closed, but behind it is a powerful and concentrated recognizable structure. Complex and interesting fruity notes in the background, for great chocolate and herbal notes on the palate. Subtle acidity harmonizes very well, long finish.
Quinta do Passadouro 2009 VP: closed in the Black and Tan color, bouquet. On the palate, medium body, lovely concentrated berries carried by a light acidity and good, but not powerful tannins. It lacks a bit in complexity, but still a good representative of this vintage.
PORTAL 2009 VP: Associate VP with very good price-benefit ratio. Strong body with present tannins and nice subtle fruit woods. Beautiful structure with a moderate sweetness, it lacks a little complexity.
Quinta SAO JOSE (SJ) 2009 VP: In this vineyard in Cima Corgo produced since 2006, own Vintage Ports and red wines, which has been kicked out of Portugal barely visible, mostly thanks to the small amount should be of only 2000 bottles. Open fruity nose, slight acidity behind. On the palate initially quite sweet and rather light - medium bodied. Lovely blackberry and raspberry fruit that is not very concentrated. This port is already fully accessible, few tannins, probably designed for the U.S. market is not a long-distance runner (now to 2024).
Quinta de SEARA D'ORDENS 2009 VP: Just a short note. Quite fruity nose, which is confirmed on the palate, this moderate sweetness and lovely harmony on the palate. If neither concentration and complexity of the best but for the short-term consumption (2016-2024) to drink, beautiful.
TAYLOR 2009 VP: Full-bodied and concentrated extreme acts, powerful palate, still very closed, wild berry fruit in the background, this great peppery flavor, medium sweet, strong, but harmonizing tannins.
Quinta do Vesuvio 2009 VP : Interesting, pleasant bouquet with fruity notes and a touch of acidity. On the palate, medium sweetness and a good mix of black and Johnnisbeere blackberry, Mediterranean herbs, acidity and tannins. Not too concentrated, but very well done.
WARRE 2009 VP: Restrained, slightly sweet flavor. On the palate, I think strong sweetness. which is unusual for Warre. Quite cherry and blackcurrant fruit dominates, beyond slight spiciness and surprisingly little tannin. Nice to drink, but if he has the stamina some other 2009s?
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"An one litre bottle [of port] is the right size for two persons, if one person doesn´t drink." - Dirk Niepoort