June 2012, Portugal

[AHB]

Sorry, busy week.

During the afternoon of Thursday, JDAW had made a few calls. He had had some spare time on Friday morning with his first appointment being not until noon. Never one to sit around doing nothing, JDAW had therefore decided to arrange some additional port-book research. At 9am he arrived at the security hut at Cockburn's lodge and was being met by his guide. The Cockburn's lodge is one of, if not the, largest lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia. There were pipes and tonnels as far as the eye could see. JDAW did a quick mental calculation and worked out that there must be more than 2,000 barrels in the lodge...but it wasn't the barrels that JDAW had come to see. He had heard reports that under the Cockburn lodge was the library stock of old Cockburn vintages - some of which he had recorded in the notes he was making for his book, but many of the more obscure vintages had no corroborative evidence. He was prepared, both camera batteries had been charged overnight and he was ready to record what he saw for posterity.

He spent 2 hours underground, crawling through confined spaces, brushing cobwebs from his face and cellar mould being crushed beneath his feet. He emerged, smelling damp and mouldy but with a triumphant gleam in his eye. "I found it!" he exclaimed, "I have a picture of the 1897!! And more. Just wait until you see them all!"

But then a quick glance at his watch caused worry to cross his face. He was due the other side of Porto in less than an hour, and he needed to get back to the Yeatman, change and meet the taxi due to take him to his next appointment. He thanked his guide profusely and jogged off to his hotel in time to make his next appointment.

[AHB]

Promptly at noon, JDAW climbed out of the taxi and looked up at the gates of the last appointment of his trip. The tall and imposing gates had a crest in their centre, but it was difficult to make out any details from the weathered stone. He looked down from the gate and saw a smiling gentleman with a neat, white beard walking down the long drive. The gentleman gave a wave of greeting and JDAW smiled in return and walked towards him.

They met halfway and the gentleman introduced himself as José Alberto Allen, head of the family of Villar d'Allen, owners of Quinta do Noval during most of the 19th century. The house in which the Allen family live is a national monument and is open to the public by appointment. It is an astonishing time capsule, has changed very little since around the turn of the 20th century and is filled with the history of the Allen family, their part in the history of Portugal and the history of Port Wine. In addition, the gardens are regarded as being of national importance and support a nursery business based on plants produced from the garden.

But it was the history of the family and their connection with Quinta do Noval that had interested JDAW. During his visit, JDAW learnt much of the history of John Allen and his entry into the port firm of Miller, Dixon & Co - owners of the Dixon Double Diamond brand made famous by Charles Dickens, and later through the Rebello Valente Allen partnership. The history of the wines of Villar d'Allen has its own, dedicated website here. JDAW learnt much of the fascinating history of the family and listened while sipping on a glass of Villar d'Allen's first new port in nearly 100 years - the Villar d'Allen 20 year old tawny.

JDAW recounts that the story behind the making of the 20 year old tawny was fascinating. The family made the decision to re-enter the port market and bring their name back to the world of wine. After much debate, it was decided to create a 20 year old tawny. For many months, the family worked with samples of various aged ports looking to create the perfect blend - a blend which had all the flavour profile of the old wines in the family cellar from the family's first time in the business - in the 1800's! Many mixes and blends from the samples were tried, but none was quite right. There was some complexity and mystery missing - the challenge was trying to work out what needed to be added to create that special something; that special aspect of the wine which would make it stand out from the other 20 year old tawnies on the market. Suddenly inspiration struck, a bottle of Quinta do Noval 1827 was opened and a tiny splash added to the blend - PERFECTION!! That was the flavour profile that was matched in the final blend.

As is probably well known, JDAW is a committed drinker of vintage port. Tawny port he considers to be "brown, sticky stuff". But JDAW was so impressed by this particular 20 year old port and its complexity and similarity to very old vintage port, that he decided to order a half case to drink as his house tawny. (I have also tasted this tawny and it is truly delicious.)

JDAW has recommended to me that Villar d'Allen is an interesting place to visit (but by appointment and a modest fee is payable).

Five hours later, JDAW was back at the Yeatman. He was being collected and taken for dinner by Miguel Roquette as his last meal before returning to the UK on Saturday morning. Dinner was in a restaurant in Foz and was delicious. It was washed down with superb wines from Crasto's portfolio and a handful of ports - Sandeman 1966, Taylor 1963 and Dalva 1941 colheita plus a couple of remnants from earlier days.

And then it was all over. Another night of sleep, breakfast and the flight back to Gatwick. Back to work and family life - Portugal would become a distant memory unless there was a way for JDAW to make sure he could always have somewhere to go to remember all his adventures, and the people he met...

...of course, I was only too happy to help him out.

[AHB]

JDAW has now provided me with a(n ever increasing) number of tasting notes for me to post from his recent trip. I have done my best to accurately capture his thoughts and impressions of the wines and ports that he tasted, and I am sure he will correct me where I have made errors. I will be posting these as time permits.

[jdaw1]

That sounds like he had a wonderful trip to Portugal. I myself hope to do likewise, perhaps next year.

[DRT]

That does sound like a very enjoyable way to spend a long weekend. I might try to do something similar myself if my better half grants me special permission.

[Axel P]

Thanks for posting this in this detail, Alex. Fun to read, but one question remains: How could he handle the orange at Vesuvio?

Axel

[AHB]

I have heard a rumour that JDAW visited Portugal again recently. I will investigate further and report back if this rumour proves to be true...

[Andy Velebil]

I have heard a rumour that JDAW visited Portugal again recently. I will investigate further and report back if this rumour proves to be true...

Please do, would be good to hear the gossip.

[DRT]

I have heard a rumour that JDAW visited Portugal again recently.

JDAW must have been a very good boy to be allowed to go to Portugal twice in six months. I suspect he has been very obedient and helpful at home to deserve this reward. This really does seem to be a win-win situation.