Recorked by Tom Archer, upper shoulder fill. Light ochre-brown colour, looking pale and tired. Gentle nose, smelling slightly sour, reminding the nose of gentle sweet lemon oil, grown fat on Douro sunshine; hints of smoke mixed in with the lemon. Warm biscuit and masses of orange show on the palate. The orange grows and blossoms on the mid-palate; lots of orange oil, lots of caramelised orange reduction and great levels of acidity. The smokiness picked up on the nose shows pleasantly on the palate, but there is also a dryness to the core around which the fruit is wrapped. Heat shows on the aftertaste from the acidity, but this settles gently. A lovely orange before a dry and woody core and a lingering bruised orange. A lovely port, but not a great port. 88/100. 20-Dec-17. Decanted 2½ hours.
Top Ports in 2019 (so far): Cockburn 1947 and Quinta do Noval Nacional 2017
2018 Ports of the year: São Leonardo 1927 White Port (Bottled 2018), Quinta do Noval Nacional 1994