An Ancient Colheitas Dinner
Posted: 16:13 Thu 15 Jun 2023
In early June 2023 I had the good fortune to be one of seven wine-lovers who took part in a dinner which featured 6 venerable barrel matured Ports in the dark depths of Otto's French Restaurant on Gray's Inn Road in London. The evening started with a sparkle - with two bottles of Salon le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs, from the 1995 and 1996 vintages.
Maison Salon was established in 1905 by Eugène-Aimé Salon, created with the sole purpose of making the very best Champagne possible for his own personal consumption. Eugène-Aimé made his fortune as a furrier to the high society of Paris and Europe and had a considerable wealth. He chose land in the best terroir - Le Mesnil-sur-Oger - and used what he considered to be the finest Champagne grape, Chardonnay. No compromise as to quality was allowed and all wines bottled were vintage wines with no multi-year blending. If a vintage dd not produce the quality needed, no Champagne was made. In the 20th century, only 37 vintages were produced.
It's not true to say that absolutely no compromises were made. Eugène-Aimé did make one in the 1920s. Under gentle pressure from friends who would visit him and taste his Champagne, he relented a little and started to permit a small amount of production to be sold to friends and family. Today Maison Salon is run as a sister company to Delamotte, with Salon and Delamotte being independent members of the Laurent-Perrier group.
These two very special Champagnes were a wonder to taste. So distinctive and so different, each revealing clearly the unique aspects of the two vintages.
1995
Such a wonderful honeyed wine on the nose; sweet white fruit and honeysuckle perfume. A mature wine on the palate, rich and full of brioche, butter, honey and Amalfi lemon. An explosion of flavour on the aftertaste and a long lemon finish. Rich and mature and just so incredibly delicious! 97/100.
1996
What an amazing contrast between vintages! The 1996 is bright lemon on the nose, fresh, mineral and vivacious. The acidity on the palate is refreshing and full of vitality, matching beautifully the grapefruit and lemon oil, so bright and vibrant. Wonderful grapefruit oil finish of incredible length. Stunning, just stunning. 98/100.
There was a very interesting discussion as to which wine was better. I loved the freshness and acidity of the 1996, others preferred the maturity and roundness of 1995. A quick show of hands revealed a 5:2 split in favour of the 1995.