For what it's worth, my other half thought the Warre was the best of the wines sampled, with the best balance between the components and with plenty of fruit to keep it going for many years - but she refused to score it.2007 Cask Sample Review
2007 has produced some superb ports. I have only been tasting cask samples and newly bottled samples since 2003, but these are the softest and most easily approached newly bottled ports that I have encountered. There are plenty of tannins and acidity in these ports, but the tannins are soft and ripe. Fruit levels are very impressive, with blackcurrant dominating the flavour profiles ”“ but there are two particular shippers who have produced very different styles of port, much more elegant and restrained than the many bold blockbusters.
Gould Campbell
Almost transparent in the centre; a mixture of crimson with a touch of violet. Initially open and perfumed on the nose with lovely blueberries, but this disappeared once the bottle had been open for a few days. Lovely texture in the mouth, soft and creamy with plenty of fruit but some fierce tannins make this a difficult wine to drink young. Dry start to the aftertaste, with tannins strong but with enough sweet fruit to always soften the tannic grip. This is a good wine; there is all the fruit needed to allow the tannins to soften with time in the cellar. 90-92.
Vesuvio
Impenetrable and opaque; crimson / magenta right into the rim. Full and open on the nose with lots of blueberries, but with a unique twist of an herbal or coriander undertone. Very silky texture, restrained sweet fruit and black liquorice dominate the flavours. Tannins are firm but fair, giving a very fine port with impressive depth. Aftertaste starts with a quick burst of heat, but is very big and full of burnt toast and black cherries. This is a great port and one from the vintage to look out for. 92-94.
Niepoort
One of the lightest in colour of the samples tasted, transparent centre ”“ crimson not violet on the rim. Warm, sweet and fruity on the nose, with a unique tone of very ripe pineapple mixed in with the fresh blueberries. Immediately very fruity in the mouth but with a strong tannic grip that dries out the cheeks and doesn’t let go. Perhaps a little more straightforward in flavour profile than some others of the vintage. The alcohol gives a big burst of heat at the start of the aftertaste, which is dominated by the tannins. 87-89.
Noval
Magenta in colour, very red with only the faintest hint of violet on the rim; almost, but not quite transparent in the centre. Very open, fruity nose; fresh and ripe but tart blackcurrants. Full of sweet blackcurrants; develops many layers but develops them slowly and at a measured pace with all the components in harmony. Pronounced tannins, but they are soft and well balanced. One of the sweeter ports tasted. The aftertaste is warm and evolves through several phases with a perfect balance between fruit and tannin and lasts a very long time. Big and burly but with the perfect balance to pull this off and mature in the cellar for a long time; one to hunt out and buy. 94-96.
Quarles Harris
This is thick and dark purple. Looking big and broody. Very subdued on the nose, with little escaping but a little sweet strawberry and Christmas spices. Sweet, silky and seductive on the tongue with layers of flavour over gentle tannins that build into a beautiful crescendo. The aftertaste and finish are not big and are dominated by the fine grained tannins with a nice streak of rhubarb. Not as big as the expectations created by the colour. 90-92.
Crasto
Lighter than most from the vintage, clearly red and with no violet in the spectrum; transparent centre. Very little to pick up on the nose, very lightly scented. Incredibly smooth and seductive texture, very soft. The fruit is restrained and elegant redcurrant around a soft and gentle tannic core. Lovely aftertaste and huge finish that lasts for minutes. A fabulous port for those who like an elegant and restrained style, quite unlike most of the ports from the vintage. One which is very easy to drink now and will hold well for 20+ years. 90-92.
Romaniera
Magenta in colour with the barest hint of purple. Lovely nose of floral perfumes and blackcurrants; very attractive. Gentle on the tongue, bringing pure but acidic blackcurrant. Most of the structure and focus comes from the acidity with little tannin showing in the wine. Perhaps a little straightforward in its flavour profile. The length is good, with chocolate and fruit flavours lasting quite a long time. One of the least sweet of the ports from the vintage. 88-90.
Smith Woodhouse
Opaque and intense magenta, with the colour holding right into the rim. Faint and delicate on the nose with a little earthy blackcurrant fruit mixed with crushed nettle leaves. Sweet and jammy at first, but then the fruit and tannins appear with an enjoyable balance between these components, although the acidity is biting ”“ almost painfully. The aftertaste is of dark chocolate and licorice root and leaves the cheeks tingling. This port has a nice balance and considerable promise for the future. 91-93.
Noval Silval
Magenta in colour, just short of transparent in the centre. Very dull on the nose, showing a little sweet cola. Medium bodied in the mouth, fruit to the fore and with strong tannins driving out the fruit from the mid-palate. Although the fruit outlasts the tannins, there is also a very strong core of acidity to this wine. The acidity comes through strongly on the aftertaste, which is low key but quite long and is dominated by Bramley apples. This port has all the components needed to be very impressive, but they are not well integrated. 86-88.
Graham
Deep in colour, opaque and with a violet rim ”“ interestingly there was no violet in the colour when the bottle was first opened and this developed over the next few days. Soft and gentle on the nose with black cherries the dominant scent. Initially a bit hollow in the mouth, but this quickly fills out with powerful fruit and tannins that support but are never allowed to dominate. There is a big dose of acidity in this port, but not as much as in some which reach painful levels. A tannin dominated aftertaste and a long and mouthfilling length ”“ one of the bigger aftertastes from the barrel samples tasted. Quite a delicious port and one worth hunting out. 93-95.
Warre
Deep red with a transparent centre. Soft, sweet brambles on the muted nose. Layers of sweet fruit unfold themselves in the mouth, mixed in with gentle, soft tannins that grip but never overwhelm. A quick burst of alcohol on the aftertaste, but this settles into a big and flavoursome length that is dominated by the fruit. This is big and raw, with a lot of potential. 89-91.
Dow
Deep red with a violet rim and a centre that was almost transparent. Sweet fruit on the nose, together with touches of herbs such as coriander and curry. The tannins grab control as soon as the wine enters the mouth and dominate fiercely, not really allowing the fruit to become the centre of attention without a lot of hard work. The acidity burns on swallowing but the flavours that follow are mouthfilling and enjoyable. Well made and with plenty to offer, but probably in the bottom half of the ports sampled. 85-87.
I note with some caution that the sample of Dow I tasted as a snapshot at a presentation by the Symingtons of their 2007 ports, I rated at 90-92 points. It is possible that the bottle I was able to sample over several days was flawed in some way.
Canais
Deep crimson in colour. Nose is elegant and floral, with lovely blackcurrants. Texture is a little thin, but the flavours and tannins are very well balanced with the tannins gripping the mouth like a gently perfumed vice. The aftertaste and length are modest, reminding of the old fashioned sherbet-lemon sweets. Pleasing and balanced; made in an elegant style. 86-88.
Derek has also been working is way through the same wines and will post his notes when work and time permit.
Alex
