Alex, Axel, Enrico, Julian, Phil, Tom, and two Wolfgangs met for luncheon on Wednesday 20th December 2017 at Otto’s Restaurant (182 Gray’s Inn Road WC1X 8EW).
Cr27: pink-red, 20% opaque. Nose of maraschino cherries. Palate slightly sour, red cherries, and, unusually, lemon. Smaller than the largest ’27s of the evening (T, F, Mz), but lovely.
Recorked by Tom Archer, upper shoulder fill. Light ochre-brown colour, looking pale and tired. Gentle nose, smelling slightly sour, reminding the nose of gentle sweet lemon oil, grown fat on Douro sunshine; hints of smoke mixed in with the lemon. Warm biscuit and masses of orange show on the palate. The orange grows and blossoms on the mid-palate; lots of orange oil, lots of caramelised orange reduction and great levels of acidity. The smokiness picked up on the nose shows pleasantly on the palate, but there is also a dryness to the core around which the fruit is wrapped. Heat shows on the aftertaste from the acidity, but this settles gently. A lovely orange before a dry and woody core and a lingering bruised orange. A lovely port, but not a great port. 88/100. 20-Dec-17. Decanted 2½ hours.
Top Ports in 2023: Taylor 1896 Colheita, b. 2021. A perfect Port.
2024: Niepoort 1900 Colheita, b.1971. A near perfect Port.
Slight toffee on noise; medium body on taste with toffee edge; still very enjoyable, though not as good as previously when this has been a superstar.
Rating: ex