Last month I went to a tasting of a dozen wines, three of each of the noble varieties. The oldest vintage was 1840 although there were three undated wines which may have pre dated this, but not by much. The youngest vintage was 1962.
The three themes, for me, at least, were power, idiosyncracy and surprise. The power is self evident when you taste; nothing, and I include port, assaults your sense of tatste in this way. Outstanding in this respect were a Malmsey of 1900 from Rutherford and Miles, and an 1870 Malmsey from someone I had never heard of. A small glass of each of these left my senses reeling.
The idiosyncracy comes in several ways. An 1870 Sercial from Barbeito was not wonderful. To me, it was musty and showed its age. An 1895 Verdelho was quite subtle, almost withdrawn, as if mature, but only just. It was perfect. Some of the very old wines are not necessarily that wonderful, although at this tasting on ly the 1870 Sercial was a disappointment. Age is not all.
Surprise comes in what appeals, as with so much in life. An 1847 Verdellho had an unusual iodine or medicinal nose, but really grew in attraction after a moment or two. A Cossart Sercial of 1936 was beautifully sedate with none of the searing acidity which can sometimes hit the palate with this grape. An undated Bual, around 1840, was gentle, utterly correct and with no hint of age.
The unusual wines can at the time eclipse some of the more commercially available such as, here, a 1962 Sercial and 1959 Bual, both from Blandy. It would not do justice to those youngsters to leave with that conclusion. The Sercial was, to me, only just mature. A long and happy life awaits it. The Bual was fully mature, an easy wine to enjoy and of such natural quality that it had nothing to prove, an aristocrat.
Vintage Madeira
Forum rules
Anything but Port, this includes all non-Port fortified wines even if they call themselves Port. There is a search facility for this part of the forum.
Anything but Port, this includes all non-Port fortified wines even if they call themselves Port. There is a search facility for this part of the forum.
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Overtired and emotional
- Taylor’s LBV
- Posts: 152
- Joined: 14:19 Sun 14 Oct 2007
- Location: Bolton England
Having had such limited experience with Maderia, and having had limited success with the recent 1940 Sercial, I would like to try a few of these excellent varieties you were fortunate to try. That would establish whether Maderia is not for me, or I've just been unlucky up to now.
Interesting read though.
Could you suggest a Maderia that is generally accepted to be a standard bearer, that embodies the classic tastes, but doesn't cost an arm and a leg?
Alan
Interesting read though.
Could you suggest a Maderia that is generally accepted to be a standard bearer, that embodies the classic tastes, but doesn't cost an arm and a leg?
Alan
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Overtired and emotional
- Taylor’s LBV
- Posts: 152
- Joined: 14:19 Sun 14 Oct 2007
- Location: Bolton England
Alan,
The best entry level is through the 10 and 15 year old wines which are reasonably available. Both Byrne in Clitheroe and Tanners in Shrewsbury stock them, as do the Wine Society and other nationals. The cost of these wines can be measured in teens.
Both Blandy and Henriques do very agreeable aged versions of each of the four noble varieties. Do give them a try; I think Verdelho is perhaps the most easily approachable. Why not try a Bual or Malmsey at Christmas, both very seasonal.
There is so little vintage madeira around that you are not at serious risk of developing a financially embarrasing addiction, but you cannot help but wince when you come to pay. It is the one truly selfish indulgence in my life since my wife does not enjoy it, nor do I ladle it out to any friends other than one of thirty odd years standing. Even so, I buy just a small handful of bottles a year.
Let's hear how you go on.
John
The best entry level is through the 10 and 15 year old wines which are reasonably available. Both Byrne in Clitheroe and Tanners in Shrewsbury stock them, as do the Wine Society and other nationals. The cost of these wines can be measured in teens.
Both Blandy and Henriques do very agreeable aged versions of each of the four noble varieties. Do give them a try; I think Verdelho is perhaps the most easily approachable. Why not try a Bual or Malmsey at Christmas, both very seasonal.
There is so little vintage madeira around that you are not at serious risk of developing a financially embarrasing addiction, but you cannot help but wince when you come to pay. It is the one truly selfish indulgence in my life since my wife does not enjoy it, nor do I ladle it out to any friends other than one of thirty odd years standing. Even so, I buy just a small handful of bottles a year.
Let's hear how you go on.
John
Alan ,Conky wrote:Having had such limited experience with Maderia, and having had limited success with the recent 1940 Sercial, I would like to try a few of these excellent varieties you were fortunate to try. That would establish whether Maderia is not for me, or I've just been unlucky up to now.
Interesting read though.
Could you suggest a Maderia that is generally accepted to be a standard bearer, that embodies the classic tastes, but doesn't cost an arm and a leg?
Alan
I followed this path :
Started with Leacocks Rainwater
Next step : Henriques & Henriques 15 yr old Madeira (Verdelho ) very nice , figgs and caramel .