ThePortForum.com

Tasting notes of yore, of Claret as well as Port, sometimes refer to ‘breed’, and its presence or absence. What is ‘breed’?

Breeding implies pedigree. Pedigree implies "class" where higher class is apparently better. In today's world, the concept is debatable.

I think it means this kind of stuff. I always associate it with that nebulous word 'elegance'.

André L. Simon, in Tables of Content (1933) wrote:Luncheon at Baker’s Hall. 29 April 1929”. “The 1908 Graham was full and soft and quite enjoyable, although I never think that Port is at its best after fine Claret; it has not got the breed of Claret.

Wine and Food No. Autumn 1963 wrote:two bottles of Château Lascombes …. The wine would have been a joy had it been partnered with a crust of bread, but it really was claret at its best, matched as it was with a fillet of beef and mushroom garnish: colour, bouquet, breed and body just right, a wine softer and with greater charm than it had in its youth, yet …

Henry Waugh, in 1964, wrote:That Taylor 1927 was tremendous, though lighter in colour than the [Noval] 1931, it had enormous breed and quality and stood up well to its younger cousin. Whether it will outlive it or not though is doubtful.

The Wine Society, in Jan 1970, re TV1967, wrote:full strong well-balanced wine of breed, which will certainly be at its peak from 15 years, when it will probably be very rare

Wyndham Fletcher, in 1978 re Cockburn 1967, wrote:It is very difficult, in fact impossible for me to be impartial about this year, as Cockburn so very definitely preferred it to the ’66. The wines are firm, with ‘grip’ and very great breed and style; it is not undue flattery to say they are reminiscent of the 1927s.

Jan Reid, in The Wines of Portugal (1987), wrote:… 1967 … Martinez Gassiot and Sandeman also made elegant wines of breed and style.

A Celebration of Taylor’s Port (1992), re Taylor 1917, wrote:Clive noted ‘though it has the most vigour of the first flight, it has the least breed.’

Croft Port (2008), re Croft 1966, wrote:‘without the edge of breed of the 1963, but it’s a close call’ (MR)

For 'breed' read class, elegance, refinement..

jdaw1 wrote:Tasting notes of yore, of Claret as well as Port, sometimes refer to ‘breed’, and its presence or absence. What is ‘breed’?

"Breed" is a commonality of characteristics, usually across a number of creatures and often based on such commonality across many generations as well as within the current generation. "Breeding" tends to be used more colloquially, either to describe a certain pedigree/lineage, refinement or quality per Tom's response. By my reading, the tasting notes you have mentioned seem to have used breed per both the above.

uncle tom wrote:For 'breed' read class, elegance, refinement..

Does “class” mean more than “well made”?

Both “elegance” and “refinement” suggest a lighter weight. Not a diminution of quality, but lighter.

Does “breed” really mean “well made but light”? Does that fit with “Port … has not got the breed of Claret”?

Does “class” mean more than “well made”?

Yes, very well made.

Both “elegance” and “refinement” suggest a lighter weight. Not a diminution of quality, but lighter.

No. Elegance can be found, amongst other things, in a pure nose; refinement implies no awkward unsoftened tannins, no overt fire, no jamminess, no unexpected or unpleasant traits.

Lightness of character is not implied.

Does “breed” really mean “well made but light”?

No, not at all. If anything, 'breed' implies a robust thoroughbred, not a benign Shetland pony..

Horses have come up and I think this may be helpful. Horses with 'breeding' are not chunky dobbins, but high prancing beasts with fine bones and an arch to the neck, often with a nervy disposition. At least this is my impression, although our resident expert on horseflesh may be able to correct me on this.

I would extend this to wine, claret being viewed as having better breeding than port on account of these ineffable qualities. In port Taylor is the classic example of having breeding, not because it is chunkier than other wines, indeed quite the reverse, but the sum of its qualities being suggestive of the lines one finds in fine horses. I would argue that old school Cockburn also has breeding, and perhaps Fonseca never quite has, despite it often being viewed as a 'better' wine, even by me.

LGTrotter wrote:I always associate it with that nebulous word 'elegance'.

LGTrotter wrote:ineffable qualities

Maybe there is no answer.

LGTrotter wrote:In port Taylor is the classic example of having breeding, not because it is chunkier than other wines, indeed quite the reverse, but the sum of its qualities being suggestive of the lines one finds in fine horses. I would argue that old school Cockburn also has breeding, and perhaps Fonseca never quite has, despite it often being viewed as a 'better' wine, even by me.

So Fonseca is better than Taylor, but Taylor has better breeding. Is that a consensus call?

uncle tom wrote:If anything, 'breed' implies a robust thoroughbred, not a benign Shetland pony.

Does ‘breed’ mean very well made, and all in balance?

jdaw1 wrote:

uncle tom wrote:If anything, 'breed' implies a robust thoroughbred, not a benign Shetland pony.

Does ‘breed’ mean very well made, and all in balance?

No, I think it is more than this, it implies an innate quality, or possibly a self-belief that transcends.

jdaw1 wrote:

Henry Waugh, in 1964, wrote:That Taylor 1927 was tremendous, though lighter in colour than the [Noval] 1931, it had enormous breed and quality and stood up well to its younger cousin. Whether it will outlive it or not though is doubtful.

Is this from Harry Waugh and his wine diaries? I would be glad of the source.

Breed means the product of many generations of careful selection and refinement.

Breed when used in the context of port or claret can be roughly translated as "effing delicious"

LGTrotter wrote:Horses have come up and I think this may be helpful. Horses with 'breeding' are not chunky dobbins, but high prancing beasts with fine bones and an arch to the neck, often with a nervy disposition.

Hmmm? I think the owner of a prize-winning pure-bread Shetland, Exmoor, Suffolk Punch or Clydesdale might disagree that those "Thoroughbred" mongrel hybrids of Arabian and Irish Draughts have better breeding.

AHB wrote:Breed means the product of many generations of careful selection and refinement.

Well said, Alex.

Case closed...

I think the photo is a clear example of the limitations of applying 'breed' to people. I was about to mount a defence of its use in wine. However thinking about first growths in claret or grand crus in burgundy, they do not seem particularly compelling examples. When burgundy was carved up the local politics of the area meant that some areas did not get grand crus which perhaps they were entitled to. And other areas got loads which now seem undeserved. The first growths are neither the most expensive nor always the most critically acclaimed wines in Bordeaux. And while they are presented as something that has grown up organically it was based on price and the boundaries of the estates have changed, and continue to change.

And the horse theory has fallen at the first fence. I can't really believe that Alex's one liner, fuelled as it was by a magnum of port, is the last word.

So I don't really know what it is.