1995 Champalimaud
Posted: 20:05 Sun 05 Apr 2020
Pre-coronavirus-induced-mass discombobulation, I addressed the Montez Champalimaud family’s brief engagement as a port shipper; in particular, in the context of its 1989 vintage port (http://theportforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13280). Whereas the said pandemic is indisputably a serious threat to the aged, the infirm and front-line medical personnel, the repose forced upon the rest of us serves to encourage the exploration of the less-visited corners of our wine cellars. Whilst wading through the detritus of my own (i.e., anything produced by Borges after 1960), I stumbled across the bottle which constitutes the focus of this tasting note. I am happy to report that it was rather good.
Consumed on 04 April 2020 after a five-hour decant, which proved to be about right, the wine in the glass was almost entirely opaque, chestnut-brown in colour and topped by a clear rim. The nose was presented with the marked characteristics of youth: minerality and stewed red berries being the dominant features, with hints of prune, mint and perhaps even a touch of oak. At the mouth, a pleasing and not inconsiderable sweetness hit the fore-palate, dominated by notes of swollen black cherries and plums, with lesser touches of rose hip and blond honey. These sensations gave way at the mid-palate to gentle spices, with a generous helping of residual tannins becoming evident at the back. Each drink was somehow akin to washing down a mouthful sweet-and-sour sauce with strong black tea - an unusual combination, admittedly, though perfectly satisfying in this context. At the medium-long finish, the tannins gave way in a most agreeable manner to the freshness which had been evident at the nose.
The 1995 Champalimaud is not anywhere near as ubiquitous on the secondary market as the 1989 vintage produced by the same family. However, where it does make an appearance the 1995 tends to be priced similarly; that is, in the range of EUR 30-35 per bottle. The latter constitutes an agreeable tariff for this well-structured wine; and, whilst it remains a decade from its peak, the 1995 Champalimaud is approachable now. Indeed, this wine is capable already of holding its own against any 1995 vintage port, save that produced by Ramos Pintos and, most especially, Quinta de Vargellas.
-89 points
Consumed on 04 April 2020 after a five-hour decant, which proved to be about right, the wine in the glass was almost entirely opaque, chestnut-brown in colour and topped by a clear rim. The nose was presented with the marked characteristics of youth: minerality and stewed red berries being the dominant features, with hints of prune, mint and perhaps even a touch of oak. At the mouth, a pleasing and not inconsiderable sweetness hit the fore-palate, dominated by notes of swollen black cherries and plums, with lesser touches of rose hip and blond honey. These sensations gave way at the mid-palate to gentle spices, with a generous helping of residual tannins becoming evident at the back. Each drink was somehow akin to washing down a mouthful sweet-and-sour sauce with strong black tea - an unusual combination, admittedly, though perfectly satisfying in this context. At the medium-long finish, the tannins gave way in a most agreeable manner to the freshness which had been evident at the nose.
The 1995 Champalimaud is not anywhere near as ubiquitous on the secondary market as the 1989 vintage produced by the same family. However, where it does make an appearance the 1995 tends to be priced similarly; that is, in the range of EUR 30-35 per bottle. The latter constitutes an agreeable tariff for this well-structured wine; and, whilst it remains a decade from its peak, the 1995 Champalimaud is approachable now. Indeed, this wine is capable already of holding its own against any 1995 vintage port, save that produced by Ramos Pintos and, most especially, Quinta de Vargellas.
-89 points