- Quinta do Noval
- Noval Launch - Noval Estate.jpg (81.75 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
- Quinta da Romaneira
- Noval Launch - Romaneira Estate.jpg (84.77 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
On Wednesday 29th May a group of people gathered together in the Mach II room of Brooklands by Claude Bosi at the top of the Peninsula Hotel in London. Although the aim of the gathering was to taste the new 2022 Vintage Ports from Quinta do Noval and Quinta da Romaneira, it was also to have the opportunity to try for the first time in the UK the new vintages of the white wines (2023) and red wines (2020) from these two estates.
The investor behind the Peninsula London is a huge fan of anything with a motor and has dedicated the top floor of the hotel to the Surrey racecourse. There are historic photos on the walls of pre-war race meetings, the lift lobby contains the 1933 Napier Railton which still holds the Brooklands speed record and you ascend to the 8th floor in the basket of a hot air balloon.
- Looking towards the rear of the dining room
- Noval Launch - Brooklands Dining Room.jpg (97.91 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
When you reach the 8th floor you enter a world based on travelling in Concorde. The main dining room has a replica of the Concorde cabin’s “machometer” which shows how fast the plane is travelling. The bathrooms are laid out like the facilities onboard (only much more spacious and luxurious). The Mach II private dining room is set up to feel like the passenger cabin, but again with a lot more space than was ever available to passengers flying on that beautiful plane.
Outside the restaurant and private dining rooms is a wrap-around terrace which offers wonderful view of Hyde Park, Apsley House and the Wellington Arch. From the bar at the other end of the floor, the terrace overlooks Green Park and Buckingham Palace Gardens.
- The terrace outside the Mach II room
- Noval Launch - looking over Hyde Park.jpg (136.54 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
The setting is wonderful and if you are a motor racing history fan or love Concorde memorabilia, it’s well worth a visit to the bar for a drink or the set lunch menu at the most excellent Brooklands by Claude Bossi restaurant. I'm convinced enough to be returning shortly!
But this was all a distraction. The main purpose of the day was to taste the new wines being offered to the UK market by Quinta do Noval and Quinta da Romaneira. We started with seven 2023 vintage white wines, followed by six 2020 vintage red wines and five Ports (with three additional Ports served after lunch). Christian Seely presented the wines and started with an explanation of how, when Noval bought Passadouro, Quinta do Passadouro had in place long-term contracts with some farmers in the Alijó area of higher altitude who had supplied Quinta do Passadouro with excellent quality white grapes. On buying Passadouro, Noval’s management and winemaking teams decided to renew and extend these contracts and are now working closely with their contract farmers to help improve the quality of the grapes – and increasing the income the farmers receive as a result.
Christian Seely purchased Quinta da Romaneira in 2004. This year marks the 20th anniversary of his acquisition. The estate had 5 hectares of white grapes at the time of purchase and more has been planted over the last two decades. The white wines from Quinta da Romaneira were:
- 100% Gouveio
- Noval Launch - Romaneira Gouveio 2023.jpg (50.14 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
100% Gouveio, fermented in stainless steel tank. 5% of the wine is aged in 1 year old oak. Fruit led nose, semi-sweet fruity palate with a lovely mineral core. Pear dominates the fruit flavour. Red pear aftertaste and very long finish. A serious wine, full of flavour - but I suspect not one to age. (This was later confirmed by Christian Seely who advised this is a wine intended to be drunk within a year of release.) 88/100. €7 per bottle ex-cellars, €12-14 retail in Portugal.
- Blend of white grapes
- Noval Launch - Romaneira Reserva Branco 2023.jpg (43.18 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
Lovely nose, hints of the Gouveio red pear but more complexity. Light texture, full of fruit with the benefit of the complexity from the mix of varieties. Fabulous late palate. Steely grip on the aftertaste as the acidity cleanses the palate. Wonderful ripe citrus aftertaste and finish. This is delicious. 91/100. Retails in Portugal for EUR 18-20.
- Limited production
- Noval Launch - Pulga 2023.jpg (42.73 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
Named after, but not exclusively from, a parcel called Quinta da Pulga. A blend of Boal do Douro (aka Semillion, 75%, Viosinho (15%) and Rabigato (10%). The Viosinho was put through malolactic fermentation immediately after fermentation finished but other grapes were not. Big nose, sweet and expressive. Quite dry on the palate, with plenty of fruit and a high level of acidity. Very fresh, almost lemon citrus. Great grip on the aftertaste and finish from the acidity. Drinkable today, but will benefit from at least a year or two in bottle. 90/100. Retails in Portugal for EUR 28-30.
From Romaneira we moved downriver to Quinta do Passadouro and Quinta do Noval. The white wines labelled under the Passadouro brand are made from a combination of grapes grown on the estate and purchased under long term contracts. Quinta do Noval makes two levels of white wines – Cedro do Noval / Cedro do Noval Reserva made from a combination of purchased grapes and grapes grown on the Noval estate, and Quinta do Noval Reserva Branco. The latter is made exclusively from grapes grown on the Noval estate. (Quinta do Noval only makes the reserve level white wine.) The wines from Quinta do Noval which were tasted were:
- Mainly grapes bought under long-term contracts
- Noval Launch - Passadouro Branco 2023.jpg (53.45 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
Made from grapes bought in under contract from growers based around Alijo. 35% Códega de Larinho, 20% Viosinho, 20% Rabigato, 15% Fernão Pires and 10% Gouveio. Light and gentle on the nose, expressing its fruit. Light, with enough acidity to almost present a slight petillance on the tongue. Lovely fruit on the palate, expressive, slightly steely. (None of the white wines from Noval are ever acidified during production.) Delicious steely aftertaste, lingering with finesse. 87/100. Retails in Portugal for circa EUR 14.
- A combination of own grapes and contract grapes
- Noval Launch - Cedro 2023.jpg (47.75 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
The Passadouro and Cedro do Noval white wines are intended to be drunk within a year of release. 30% Códega de Larinho, 25% Viosinho, 20% Gouveio, 15% Arinto and 10% Rabigato. Much rounder and with more depth to the fruit on the nose that the Passadouro Branco tasted alongside. The fruit on the palate has a depth to it, a sweetness which bring memories of ripe Spanish melon, but also has the acidity needed to balance the sugar. More rounded and smoother, very different in style from the Passadouro, and with an astonishing finish. 88/100. Made from grapes grown on the Quinta and/or bought from long term contractors. Retails in Portugal for EUR 18-20.
- First year of producing a Cedro Branco Reserva
- Noval Launch - Cedro Reserva 2023.jpg (37.3 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
The first vintage of the Reserva level of Cedro do Noval Branco. Made from a combination of grapes grown at Noval and grapes bought in. 65% Viosinho and 35% Gouveio. This is a wine which will benefit from a year or two of additional bottle age. A huge nose of yellow and green citrus. Generous and noticeable oak on the palate, time will allow the fruit and oak to integrate a little more. But there is plenty of fruit on the palate, distinctly mineral aftertaste and finish. All the whites from the Noval stable have a fabulous freshness to them. 92/100. Retails in Portugal for EUR 26-30.
- Noval produce only a Branco Reserva
- Noval Launch - Noval Reserva Branco 2023.jpg (43.12 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
Made only from grapes grown on the estate which pass a rigorous selction process. 55% Viosinho and 45% Gouveio. Such self-confidence on the nose, the fruit is there but only if you’re patient. A little oak on the fruit on entry. The fruit is ripe and sweet, nicely balanced. This wine is made with more restraint than the other whites at this tasting and really does need some patience to leave the wine in the cellar to allow it to knit together fully. 90/100. Retails in Portugal for EUR 40.
The red wines – from the 2020 vintage – followed a similar order. We started with the wine from Quinta da Romaneira and then moved to the wines of Passadouro and Noval. Quinta do Noval bought Quinta do Passadouro in 2018. Passadouro held 36 hectares of land in two roughly equal parcels located in the Pinhão and Roncão Valleys – both parcels bordering Noval’s existing vineyards. Most of the grapes grown on the Passadouro estate are now used in the Noval branded wines but there are a few parcels, mainly in the Pinhão Valley, which have a distinct personality so are kept separate and used to make the red wines which are labelled as Quinta do Passadouro.
Quinta da Romaneira and Quinta do Noval were the first two estates to plant Petit Verdot in the Douro, with the vines at Romaneira being planted in 2006 and those at Noval shortly afterwards. Petit Verdot copes well with the heat provided it has adequate water - so the vines are irrigated when required and are now producing excellent quality fruit.
- 100% Petit Verdot from Romaneira
- Noval Launch - Romaneira Mirante.jpg (31.8 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
A rather funky fruit nose, a little overripe black fruit. On the palate the black fruit has a firm grip. Lots of liquorice root and a touch of tar. Big grip on the finish, generous blackjack fruit. 87/100.
- 100% from Romaneira grapes
- Noval Launch - Romaneira Reserva Tinto.jpg (34.16 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, and Tinta Cão. Wonderful fruits of the forest on the nose. Smooth fruit, ripe fruit, delicious blend with tannins really hidden. The finish is dominated by the fruit, yet with the structure needed to allow the wine to linger. Harmonious, delicious. 89/100. Retails in Portugal for EUR 35-40.
- 100% from Passadouro vineyards
- Noval Launch - Passadouro Reserva Tinto.jpg (38.09 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
The grapes are foot trodden for all Passadouro red wines. Made from 55% Touriga Nacional and 45% Vinhas Velhas grapes grown on the Passadouro estate. Restrained on the nose, some ripe black fruit. A delicious chocolatey black fruit palate with a wonderful complexity. Fine grained tannins hold the fruit together. A little bitterness adds another layer of interest to the fruit on the aftertaste and finish. This has the capability to age for a few years, but is a lovely red wine to drink today. 88/100. Retails in Portugal for about EUR 50.
- 100% from Noval - which includes Passadouro parcels now under Noval ownership
- Noval Launch - Noval Reserva Tinto.jpg (36.87 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
60% Touriga Nacional and 40% Vinhas Velhas from Noval's vineyard. Expressive fruit nose, fruits of the forest and sous bois. Fabulous texture, silky at first but then an explosion of acidity and oak tannins fill the mouth. Wonderful fruit, generous, and so persistent on the finish - but worthy of aging at least a little longer. 92/100. Retails in Portugal for EUR 60.
- Bordering Crasto's Maria Teresa vineyard
- Noval Launch - Marka Vineyards.jpg (85.06 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
- The second vintage of this wine
- Noval Launch - Vinhas da Marka.jpg (45.77 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
The vibrant purple of a field blend. Restrained fruit on the nose, but the silky texture on the palate is just amazing. Great fine tannins reside in the fruit on the palate. An astonishing mouthful of wine. A great grip. So much elegance yet with lots of power. Truly fabulous, but will be even better in 10 years. 95/100. 1,150 bottles were produced, which retail in Portugal for around EUR 270.
- The first vintage of this wine
- Noval Launch - Vinhas do Passadouro.jpg (53.78 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
This is the first vintage of the Passadouro edition of the Terroir Series, produced from grapes grown on an old field blend parcel on the Passadouro estate of about 1½ hectares that was planted in the 1930s. Restrained violets on the nose. The fruit is a little more dilute and floral than the Marka, but has so much more grip. The fruit on the palate just explodes into life, with layer after layer of wonder. Another wine which needs at least 5 years to begin to approach its best - but is fabulous today. 94/100. 2,750 bottles produced, retailing for about EUR 250 in Portugal.
5 new Ports were also presented at this event. The first was something of a commemorative release, being a 20 Year Old Tawny from Quinta da Romaneira, marking the 20th anniversary of Christian Seely’s acquisition of the property. This is the first release of a 20 Year Old Tawny from Romaneira under Seely’s ownership. The grapes used in this wine were trodden by foot and aged exclusively in 640 litre pipes until being bottled in 2024, blended under the supervision of Romaneira’s main consultant - Carlos Agrellos - along with Christian Seely and Romaneira’s oenologist.
- Bottled 2024
- Noval launch - Romaneira 20YO.jpg (26.92 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
The wine showed a terrific nose of dried fruit and dried cherries. A deliciously judged Douro bake swept over the palate bringing cinder toffee and toasted almonds and then a wave of crème brûlée and baked apple. Sweet, with sugar and golden syrup flavours, yet with a lovely level of acidity that keeps the wine beautifully balanced. Truly rather delicious. 92/100.
The remaining 4 Ports were the new vintages from 2022 of the wines from Quint da Romaneira, Quinta do Passadouro, Quinta do Noval and Quinta do Noval Nacional. Quinta do Noval benefits from having over 150 hectares of vines which invariably produce at least one or two plots of fabulous quality every year, allowing Noval to continue to declare back-to-back vintages as they have since 2011. The conditions were a little similar to the weather in 2017.
- Rich chocolate and black cherry
- Noval Launch - Romaneira 2022.jpg (30.2 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
A wonderful fresh floral nose with a hint of underlying power. So smooth on the palate! Effortlessly elegant fruit, ripe and very slightly jammy filling the mouth with fruit and a gentle grip. The tannins really show on the aftertaste before the black chocolate and dark cherry finish. Perhaps lacking a bit of acidity for very long term aging, it is still delicious. This reminds me how much I miss Ben & Jerry’s Cherry Garcia ice cream! 89-91/100. 550 cases.
- 100% of the grapes came from the Passadouro parcels
- Noval Launch - Passadouro 2022.jpg (36.76 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
Bright and fresh fruit on the nose. The freshness of the fruit also shows on the palate; fresher fruit, dominated by strawberry with delightful fine-grained tannins and a little more acidity than the Romaneira. Easy to drink today, but with all the ingredients needed to mature in bottle. Nicely balanced, black cherry tannins on the aftertaste and finish. Impressive. 90-92/100. 500 cases.
- The 12'th consecutive VP release from Noval
- Noval Launch - Noval 2022.jpg (36.51 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
Modest on the nose, not wanting to show off so the bouquet has to be coaxed from the glass. Fragrant and delightful. Balanced and elegant on the palate, with the tannins initially hidden behind the dark cherry fruit. Sweet dark cherry aftertaste with a long black cherry and bramble finish. Floral. Sweet and serious. 92-94/100. A comparatively large declaration of 2,600 cases.
- Incredible balance and beauty
- Noval Launch - NN22 with glass.jpg (69.92 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
A wonderful floral nose, so much more floral perfume and delicacy than the regular Noval. The delicacy comes through on the palate. So elegant yet so full of flavour! The tannins are so fine grained as to be almost unnoticeable, dancing and frolicking within the fruit. The texture of the wine is absolutely exquisite. Such a truly beautiful wine! 96-98/100. 167 cases.
We took a short break while the room was reset for lunch, an opportunity to walk out onto the terrace a share a glass or two of white wine and to look down on Wellington Arch and Hyde Park Corner. It was dry, even if a little windy and a bit chilly. Lunch was a variation on the set menu offered by Brooklands by Claude Bosi, with the dishes chosen to match with some of the wines we had been trying earlier in the day. The pine nut nosotto was something I had not encountered before – effectively a wonderfully creamy risotto but made with pine nuts and not rice, big and bold and full of crab flavours it nevertheless matched perfectly against the two red wines selected for the first course. The guinea fowl main was also well judged against the Vinhas do Passadouro (the Romaneira Syrah was held up in customs), allowing the fine structure of the wine to shine through the subtle flavours of fowl and fish.
- A surprisingly good match
- Noval Launch - Guinea Fowl and Terroir Passadouro.jpg (103.15 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
- How much practice must our sommelier have had?
- Noval Launch - Pouring the swan decanter.jpg (45.63 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
But for me, the highlight of lunch was the cheese selection – Spenwood, Colston Basset Stilton and St James. A trio of English cheeses matched against a trio of wonderful Ports. The Ports were not the ones tried earlier but were chosen from the library stocks of Noval and Romaneira especially for our lunch. We had the delightful opportunity to drink Quinta da Romaneira 2007 Colheita, Quinta do Noval 2003 Colheita and Quinta do Noval Nacional 2003; the latter being poured most expertly from a very long necked swan decanter into our glasses as we watched.
The room was needed for a different function immediately after our lunch so most people departed promptly. Fortunately, there was a seat at the bar on the other side of the restaurant where I was able to take my 4 Port glasses (I still had some of my Noval Nacional 2022 in my glass) and to sit and consider them for a while before wrapping up the day and heading home. The conclusion that I came to is that the Douro Valley is capable of making some fantastic wines – white, red and fortified – and that Quinta do Noval is a wonderful brand ambassador for the DOC.
- Left to Right: Romaneira 2007 Colheita, Nacional 2003, Noval 2003 Colheita and Nacional 2022
- Noval Launch - Lunch Ports in the Brooklands Bar.jpg (142.2 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
- Very well judged Douro bake
- Noval Launch - Romaneira Colheita 2007.jpg (53.79 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
Quite closed on the nose, showing some baked rhubarb. Smooth on the palate, gentle flavours of rhubarb and brown sugar. Well-judged acidity but the burnt brown sugar lingers and glides over the palate. Warm orange crepe Suzette finish with a wonderful length. This is delightful, having a very fine balance which is missing from many relatively young colheitas. Really, really lovely. 95/100.
- Noval make excellent Colheitas
- Noval Launch - Noval Colheita 2003.jpg (68.12 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
Slight burnt sugar on the nose, dried apricots on the palate, sweet but with a lovely level of acidity to prevent the sugar dominating. Dried vine fruit shines on the wine. A little orange oil on the aftertaste and a long, delicious orange and citrus finish. Really very fine. 93/100.
- So much youth on the second bottle
- Noval Launch - Noval Nacional 2003.jpg (32.88 KiB) Viewed 2173 times
Starting to mature to the eye and on the nose. Still quite young on the palate with a lovely green tone to the fruit. Still a little closed, but starting to open up. Bright red berry fruit with the acidity perfectly placed on the aftertaste. Lots of potential, but needs more time. Lovely elegance to the wine. 92/100.
Christian Seely was unhappy with the way the wine was showing so opened a second bottle.
Quinta do Noval Nacional 2003
The second bottle was opened and poured. My goodness, what a difference. The second bottle is much less evolved in appearance than the first with a much more restrained nose full of bright and sparkling fruit. Rich fruit, raspberry perfection with depth and showing the acidity. Bright raspberry and redcurrants aftertaste which just blossoms in the mouth to deliver a fruit forward and rich fruit aftertaste. Young but with all the awkward edges rounded off. A beautiful wine. 95/100.
- Every wine came with its own tasting mat
- Noval Launch - tasting mats laid out.jpg (88.45 KiB) Viewed 2173 times