An Unknown Wine
Posted: 21:18 Sat 18 Jul 2009
A few months ago I was rooting around in the cellar of an old house in Cornwall as a favour to a local auction house who had been commissioned to carry out a house clearance exercise following the death of the lady owner. There were various bottles in the cellar, identifiable by bin labels, with vintage dates running from the early 20th century through to the early fifties. In total, there were about 400 bottles, most were claret (none were port) and the quality I described as "good second division" meaning that there were no first growths in there but plenty of second and third growths.
But in the corner of the cellar were two bottles lying in a pile of dirt and with no means of identifying them at all. All we could see was that they were identical, claret bottles and with seals saying nothing more than "Skinner & Rook, Nottingham". As far as my research can tell me, Skinner & Rook disappeared before the second world war.
Deeming the bottles to be unsellable since they could not be identified, we agreed to take one each. I opened mine tonight.
No branding on the cork, so I have not been able to identify the wine. The bottle was moulded as a single piece, with a very deep and pronounced punt, the surface quality of the glass being covered in striations and a long crease in the bottom part of the bottle. Judging from the bottle, I would estimate that this was probably a vintage from the early twentieth century.
The wine decanted cleanly off a lot of heavy sediment. It was a lovely deep orange colour and had a rich nose of mature claret, that lovely combination of tangerines and roast beef. In the mouth, this was delicate but full of flavour. The fruit was dominant but there were still tannins in the wine giving structure. The flavours were sweet and there was lovely development and complexity in the mid-palate, but also enough tannin to make me think that this would have been a brutal wine in its youth. Slightly dry on the aftertaste, but long and very flavoursome. 94/100.
I would love to know what this wine was, but probably never will. It is delicious and quite amazing. It is old, very old, but is still full of life and shows no sign of fading. A cellarful of these wines would be just so wonderful to have.
But in the corner of the cellar were two bottles lying in a pile of dirt and with no means of identifying them at all. All we could see was that they were identical, claret bottles and with seals saying nothing more than "Skinner & Rook, Nottingham". As far as my research can tell me, Skinner & Rook disappeared before the second world war.
Deeming the bottles to be unsellable since they could not be identified, we agreed to take one each. I opened mine tonight.
No branding on the cork, so I have not been able to identify the wine. The bottle was moulded as a single piece, with a very deep and pronounced punt, the surface quality of the glass being covered in striations and a long crease in the bottom part of the bottle. Judging from the bottle, I would estimate that this was probably a vintage from the early twentieth century.
The wine decanted cleanly off a lot of heavy sediment. It was a lovely deep orange colour and had a rich nose of mature claret, that lovely combination of tangerines and roast beef. In the mouth, this was delicate but full of flavour. The fruit was dominant but there were still tannins in the wine giving structure. The flavours were sweet and there was lovely development and complexity in the mid-palate, but also enough tannin to make me think that this would have been a brutal wine in its youth. Slightly dry on the aftertaste, but long and very flavoursome. 94/100.
I would love to know what this wine was, but probably never will. It is delicious and quite amazing. It is old, very old, but is still full of life and shows no sign of fading. A cellarful of these wines would be just so wonderful to have.