ThePortForum.com

Port, we all know, is a sweet, red fortified wine, except for when it isn't. Whenever someone writes about Port and decides to expand the "when it isn't bit" they mention "Leve Seco". This Port is usually described as a dry, unfortified white Port (with a strength, according to the IVDP, of at least 16.5%).

What I wonder, though, is how many people actually make this? Looking on the Internet, the only proper mention of a bottle I can see is from Quinta Seara d'Ordens; an Independent on the Baixo Corgo / Cima Corgo border, about four miles North of the Regua dam.

I wonder if the Port producers a missing a bit of a trick with this wine? Many dry white Ports can taste too spirity (unless chilled to near-freezing), which is not unsurprising considering they have quite light flavours and have a whole load of alcohol thrown in to fortify them up to 20%. Fino sherry, to which White Ports are often compared to, is usually just 15%. I think I am correct in saying that dry white Port has more alcohol in it when it is fortified (since the sugar has been turned into alcohol by the fermentation), so to make a Leve Seco only a very little aguardente would need to be added. That could produce a wine which is delicately flavoured, not overpowered by the alcohol and a strong competitor to sherry.

I think it would be interesting to see some more of these Ports; the flexibility in the regulations could allow some really good wines to be made. Has anyone tried any or have any other views on them?

I do admit, I know very little about white port and have only tasted or drunk white port on a dozen occasions (perhaps fewer). Neither am I a great fino sherry afficionado. Clearly an area of port knowledge that I need to build up.

I think I’ve also only drunk a dozen or so white Ports and whilst a few (particularly the colheitas and ages ones) are quite good, the standard ‟off-dry” white Port is rather unattractive to me; I don’t think I’ve tried a good one.

Actually, thinking about it, the Ramos-Pinto Lagrima was fine, too. I therefore wonder whether the Ports need to be aimed at one end of the spectrum (Lagrima or Leve Seco) since the middle ground is rather mediocre.

Perhaps if the market for quality white Ports grows (especially since they are now legitimate products according to the IVDP) white Port quality will generally increase, too.

It only took 11 years, but I finally came across some Leve Seco Port in the wild, by Nicolau de Almeida.

This was quite a serious wine. It seems to be a single-quinta Port from Quinta do Monte Xisto which is high up near Foz Côa. The technical sheet says it is 70% rabigato with the rest being a blend of arinto, viosinho, códega. It’s a blend of four vintages which are aged in VndG: an usually retro touch for an independent.

I didn’t get a good note: I had a couple of glasses at a walk-around tasting which is never a good place to try but my impression was positive: a mixture of youth with a touch of age, perhaps the slighest sweetness. Very light, too. I imagine that since it is fermented almost dry it has the least amount of any aguardente to bring it up to 16.5% ABV.

Considering the fashion for quite light and fresh young white Ports these days, I think there is something to be said for more people experimenting with this style. I suppose the main problem is that if you ferment to 16.5% you have committed to that ABV: you can’t easily add this to older stocks to make aged whites or tawnies.

Here was my tasting note when I visited their new lodge halfway down the hill from Grahams.

Nicolau de Almeida “Leve Seco” White Port - Bottled in 2021. 500ml bottle. 16.5% alcohol. This wine had grape skin contact two or three days during fermentation to give the wine its golden yellow color. There is a light nose of mixed tropical fruits. This dry style begins with rich intense notes of melon, grapefruit and bright acidity. The mid-palate has good acidity and balance. Nice long, rich finish with a touch of residual sweetness popping up on the tail end. 92 points. 6/21/2022

Stewart
www.theportguy.com

That sounds like a place to visit on my next trip to Porto. I don’t know his Ports well but really enjoyed the “Trans Douro Express” which was a set of three reds from the Baixo Corgo, Cima Corgo & Douro Superior. I tried to encourage him to do a similar run of three Ports but apparently that may be logistically challenging!

SLT wrote: ↑03:57 Sat 06 Aug 2022 Here was my tasting note when I visited their new lodge halfway down the hill from Grahams.

Nicolau de Almeida “Leve Seco” White Port - Bottled in 2021. 500ml bottle. 16.5% alcohol. This wine had grape skin contact two or three days during fermentation to give the wine its golden yellow color. There is a light nose of mixed tropical fruits. This dry style begins with rich intense notes of melon, grapefruit and bright acidity. The mid-palate has good acidity and balance. Nice long, rich finish with a touch of residual sweetness popping up on the tail end. 92 points. 6/21/2022

Stewart
www.theportguy.com

You did like it a LOT more than I did. I rated it at 83 points, but that could just be a stylistic preference.

Alex Bridgeman wrote: ↑22:07 Wed 22 Feb 2023 You did like it a LOT more than I did. I rated it at 83 points, but that could just be a stylistic preference.

How does that compare to your scores for other young light whites like the Graham’s № 5 or Cockburn?

I’m kicking myself that I forgot about this thread and thereby the existence of their lodge in Porto when I was there last week!

That’s a good question.

I don’t like Blend No.5 on its own, I find it too dry. I have a similar opinion about the Quinta de Val da Figueira.

But when used as a cocktail ingredient, I really enjoy them.