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Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 09:16 Fri 06 May 2011
by PhilW
Hi,

My first 'real' post - be gentle with me ;)

I have a current port goal which is to find a replacement for my beloved Warre77, so I thought I'd post about my plans and experience so far in case it's of interest and for any suggestions/comments/advice which would be welcome.

Warre77 has been my staple (affordable) favourite for the last decade; It's now starting to be in short supply, so it seems like a good time to try and find what else might be able to take it's place. Of course, I like trying many different ports, and would go for many older ones if budgets allow,but financial pragmatism also has to play its part. So previously, while say Fonseca 70 would have been my likely ideal choice, Warre 77 become my firm favourite since while very different I found I like it almost as much as the F70 and was much better value.

So how to find a new favourite? well, try more port ofc - such a drag :) My thoughts were along the following lines:
1. I'm looking for vintage, not ruby/crusted etc, as my experiments with the latter were not positive
2. On price grounds (as well as availability), it would have to be newer than 77
3. To be good enough, I'm expecting to look at least 15yr old, probably 20yr old+

Having looked at the options, years, vintages etc, along with what I have/haven't tried previously, a couple of things stood out:
- There were a few I'd already had, including various 83 (incl Warres, Fonseca, Grahams?), Fonseca 85, Fonseca 94; all were good, but none stood out as 'the one'
- I've enjoyed Grahams 77, 83, and not tried any newer
- I hadn't tried *any* Nierpoort
- The 94's are really only just really entering the criteria age-wise, are supposed to be a very good year and I'd only tried one

I decided therefore to try and fill the gaps, with a bias towards 94 on the grounds that this is supposed to be a superlative year, and am therefore planning over time to try at least Nierpoort 94, Grahams 94, Warre 94 and Warre 91. This gives me a chance to find out what I think of 94 generally, try a Niepoort, and a double-shot for Warres since I've enjoyed it for so long plus the W91 was supposed to be good.

So far, I've had two of them, with the following results (very brief taste notes - I don't flatter myself of the capability of description of some):

1. Nierpoort 94
I was pleasantly impressed with this; Seems lighter in initial intensity than I'm used to, but has a lovely smooth complex flavour with a long aftertaste. Has definitely made me want to try more Nierpoort. This would be a definite candidate, only negative for me being the initial lightness.

2. Warre 94
Very intense flavour, both initial and aftertaste; Very strong flavours of Vanilla and blackcurrent/berry; Not as 'earthy' as the 77. I still enjoyed drinking the bottle, but found the vanilla too overpowering; not a candidate.

3. Grahams 83
Unfortunately partly corked, so difficult to make any real valid judgement. Compared to the 77 Grahams tried previously extremely favourably, this was surprising dry (not the sweet stickier taste I expected) with a very closed intense dark flavour; however since partly corked, no idea if this is typical. Ideally would like to retry.

---
Further tastings at offlines now only added in usual places. To summarise, to date two suitable replacements have been identified, an a runner-up:

1= Calem 85
2= Morgan 91
3 [runner up] Warre 91

However, since both top choices are essentially unavailable for purchase, the "runner up" of Warre91 is currently top candidate, although it is only really just ready for drinking now, but will likely become a future staple. A case of Warre77 is planned in the interim while stocks last ;)

Phil.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 08:47 Sat 07 May 2011
by JacobH
Hi Phil, welcome to :tpf:.

There seems to me to be a big jump in maturity between 1977 and 1994. Even in 10 years' time, I would have thought they will still be darker and younger than the 1977s are today. For similar drinking, I wonder whether you should look at the 1980 vintages, particularly the 1985s which I think is the best vintage of the 1980s. I quite like the Warre 1985 which is one of my favourite wines from this shipper but most of the main shippers put out something decent that year.

If you are going for the 1990s, it might be worth exploring the minor years, since they can provide some great drinking for much less money than the major vintages. 1996 is probably the best of them. I'd also add Quinta do Vesuvio to your list of potential candidates: the 1994 and 1996 are both excellent, classic Ports.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 10:26 Sat 07 May 2011
by RonnieRoots
Hi Phil, and welcome!

You set yourself a difficult, but fun, task! My guess is that you will receive a wide range of suggestions here, because personal preferences differ quite a lot. Unlike Jacob, I am not a fan of the 1985 vintage at all, and consider the Warre 1985 unusually weak for the house. I like most 1987 ports far better than the 1985's, and they are also good value for money. Some 87's that are worth seeking out: Taylor's Vargellas, Fonseca Guimaraens, Niepoort, Graham's Malvedos.

Other ports you may want to try: Graham's 1980 / 1991 / 1994, Warre 1991, Vesuvio 1991 / 1992 / 1994, Fonseca Guimaraens 1988 / 1991 / 1995, Taylor (Vargellas) 1991, 1992 (although probably not within budget) / 1995, Gould Campbell 1977, Smith Woodhouse 1977.

That should keep you busy for a while. :wink:

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 10:40 Sat 07 May 2011
by JacobH
RonnieRoots wrote:Unlike Jacob, I am not a fan of the 1985 vintage at all, and consider the Warre 1985 unusually weak for the house.
Hmm...I must try to acquire another bottle to revisit it; in my mind, it is one of the ‟classic” Warre’s that I have tried, up with the 1970 and 1963...
RonnieRoots wrote: Some 87's that are worth seeking out: Taylor's Vargellas, Fonseca Guimaraens, Niepoort, Graham's Malvedos.
I agree, though the problem with 1987 is that you simply can’t get hold of them as easily as some of the surrounding years. I imagine that most were drunk to oblivion in the 1990s having been sold as early maturing SQVPs.

Out of interest, Ronnie, if you prefer 1987 to 1985, how would you rank the declarations in the 1980s?

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 18:42 Sat 07 May 2011
by RonnieRoots
JacobH wrote:
RonnieRoots wrote:Unlike Jacob, I am not a fan of the 1985 vintage at all, and consider the Warre 1985 unusually weak for the house.
Hmm...I must try to acquire another bottle to revisit it; in my mind, it is one of the ‟classic” Warre’s that I have tried, up with the 1970 and 1963...
The bottles I tried ranged from horribly spoiled by VA to weird and weak, and maybe only once just average. I guess I've never been lucky to stumble across that great bottle. But that's also one of my main concerns with 1985. Although there are great bottles to be found, there's just too much variation. There are problems with VA with certain producers, and other ports have never been really good (eg Taylor, Dow) or just aged really fast (eg Noval). Fonseca is the one notable exception (maybe Noval Nacional as well, but I never tasted that so wouldn't know).
JacobH wrote:
RonnieRoots wrote: Some 87's that are worth seeking out: Taylor's Vargellas, Fonseca Guimaraens, Niepoort, Graham's Malvedos.
I agree, though the problem with 1987 is that you simply can’t get hold of them as easily as some of the surrounding years. I imagine that most were drunk to oblivion in the 1990s having been sold as early maturing SQVPs.
That's interesting. I don't know what the situation is now, but until recently they were quite easy to get hold of in the Netherlands. In recent years I bought cases of Taylor Vargellas and Niepoort for good prices. Just last week I bought a bottle of Fonseca Guimaraens 1987 in Portugal, at Quinta do Panascal. It was just over 36 euro, which I consider to be a very good price (it's about the same as what I paid for the Vargellas).
JacobH wrote:Out of interest, Ronnie, if you prefer 1987 to 1985, how would you rank the declarations in the 1980s?
Interesting question. My list:
1. 1987, clearly a mistake not to declare. Some wines mature now, others will go for a long time still
2. 1983, not massive wines but drinking very nicely now
3. 1988, some very fine ports, that are still remarkably young. The wines are not so complex, but great to drink.
4. 1985, dissapointing as a whole, but Fonseca is spectacular and some others like Kopke and Graham are very nice.
5. 1980, I haven't had that many, but most I've tasted were quite weak. Dow is the exception: great port.
6. 1982, Only had a few, of which a Taylor Terra Feita that was quite enjoyable, but not special. The consensus seems to be that these ports are drying out. The couple I tried did indeed show that.
7, 1984 / 1986, very similar in profile. Some nice wines that are pretty to drink, but hardly any complexity and fully mature now.
8. 1989, quite weak overall, apart of course from the Cruz :wink:

A fun excercise. :) What does your list look like?

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 13:46 Sun 08 May 2011
by JacobH
RonnieRoots wrote:A fun excercise. :) What does your list look like?
Hmm...It’s very hard to characterise each year from the 1980s because quite a few have odd, excellent Ports... I’ve also only tasted a handful of wines from some of these years, so I am sure that has skewed my thoughts, but here goes:

1: 1985; A lighter, more floral, vintage than many major declarations, but with a lot of fine, elegant Ports.
2: 1980; In some ways, I think this is the opposite of 1985 (with the exception of Graham’s): many dark wines produced which emphasis structure over fruit. With some more time, they might come round to being excellent.
3: 1987; A mistake not to declare. Very fine, dark, complex wines.
4: 1983; Nothing wrong with these wines, but perhaps not as interesting as those above.
5: 1982; A mixed bag: some nice wines produced (e.g. Croft, Delaforce, Graham’s Malvedos and Churchill), amongst very weak ones.
6: 1988; There seems to be some good SQVPs for a minor year but then I’ve only had a couple.
7: 1984; Very light and quick maturing.
8: 1989; Similar to 1984 but perhaps not quite as elegant.

Not really sure what I think of 1986: I’ve only tried the Fonseca Guimeraens, which was quite mature and attractive but one-dimensional, and the Graham’s Malvedos which was very young and dark and similar to the 1987. I wonder what other :tpf:ers think! At least we agree on 1989 and 1984...

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 08:33 Mon 09 May 2011
by PhilW
Hi Jacob, Ronnie, thanks for the replies, some interesting suggestions.

I agree about the age, that 94 is still a little new; I've been drinking the 77 happily for ~10 year, so really my target would be <90, on the basis that the 77 was superb 10 years ago when the equivalent age was <80, assuming I could find an equivalent. 83/85 would be natural candidates given that criteria - however I've had quite a few 83 and while some are very nice (the Grahams stood out for me), they didn't quite reach the "eureka" equivalent of the Warre77, hence my decision to search further.

One of your suggestions I think I will *definitely* follow up on is to try some of the 87 (assuming I can source some) - I'd somehow completely missed this year as a possibility, and it could well have the right age/quality/value balance. Also given my impression of the Nierpoort94, if the 87 Nierpoort is a good one... well, we'll have to see :)

Thanks again for the thoughts,

Phil.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 22:14 Tue 10 May 2011
by mosesbotbol
There's plenty of great vintages from the 80's at all price points. I don't think there is a clear single best vintage out of the decade.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 22:36 Tue 10 May 2011
by jdaw1
I think we have a theme for an informal London tasting. Bring a Blind Candidate House VP for PhilW.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 22:40 Tue 10 May 2011
by DRT
jdaw1 wrote:I think we have a theme for an informal London tasting. Bring a Blind Candidate House VP for PhilW.
Brilliant!

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 07:18 Thu 12 May 2011
by PhilW
jdaw1 wrote:I think we have a theme for an informal London tasting. Bring a Blind Candidate House VP for PhilW.
hehe, would be a nice plan but a little too self-centred for me I think! Of course it could be done as a "best of the 80's VP" instead, even if my personal goal would still be the same; since for my (personal) search at the moment I'm looking at something like 77>year<94, then an informal 80s would likely cover it aside from the newer very early 90s option...

Phil.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 08:57 Thu 12 May 2011
by jdaw1
PhilW wrote:would be a nice plan but a little too self-centred for me I think!
For very big structured tastings we have two well-established themes: the vertical, and the horizontal. For small get-togethers we like to have new amusing themes: the real purpose is to be sociable with interesting port. It won’t be ‟self-centred”, it will be us-centred.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 18:31 Thu 12 May 2011
by Zelandakh
"Random blind vintage" - opening up the field can give you a surprise that can lead to a lifelong friendship.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 13:56 Fri 13 May 2011
by PhilW
jdaw1 wrote:
PhilW wrote:would be a nice plan but a little too self-centred for me I think!
For very big structured tastings we have two well-established themes: the vertical, and the horizontal. For small get-togethers we like to have new amusing themes: the real purpose is to be sociable with interesting port. It won’t be ‟self-centred”, it will be us-centred.
Ah that's ok then, am always happy to be the cause of amusement or an excuse to drink port, eat good food and be sociable :)

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 12:50 Sat 14 May 2011
by uncle tom
Greetings Phil,

The feeblest excuses to eat and drink well are always welcome here, so I'm sure you'll fit in just fine..!

As we have people posting on this site from most corners of the globe, it is quite useful to know where people are based, when planning events; so could you fill out your profile a little, so we have some idea of whereabouts you are?

Cheers,

Tom

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 08:33 Tue 17 May 2011
by Alex Bridgeman
PhilW wrote:
jdaw1 wrote:I think we have a theme for an informal London tasting. Bring a Blind Candidate House VP for PhilW.
hehe, would be a nice plan but a little too self-centred for me I think! Of course it could be done as a "best of the 80's VP" instead, even if my personal goal would still be the same; since for my (personal) search at the moment I'm looking at something like 77>year<94, then an informal 80s would likely cover it aside from the newer very early 90s option...

Phil.
This sounds like an excellent idea.

Don't overlook some of the more serious traditional LBV ports that are easy to get hold of - Noval is normally priced at around £15-16 in Tesco but can be bought opportunistically (excuse the pun) when Tesco run their "buy 6 bottles and get 25% off" sales. Tesco 1994 own label port is also worth a try.

Within the '80s decade I would suggest that 1980 is too difficult to get hold of to make it worth appointing as a "house port". 1982 is more easily available, but in my opinion is generally lighter weight than the Warre 1977. Dow 1983 is a serious heavyweight, Warre 1983 is what I would automatically have thought to suggest, Offley '83 is a good wine that is usually sold at a good price. I would avoid 1984. 1985 should be a serious contender although you have to choose carefully. Fonseca is my wine of the vintage and will not be as mature as the Warre 1977 for another 20-30 years. Also liked by me are the Symington wines, Delaforce, Martinez, Offley, Taylor. Personally, I would avoid Croft as I have had too many bottles riddled with VA.

I like 1986, but these are difficult to find - but very tasty! Fonseca Guimaraens is my favourite. 1987 saw some great wines being made. My favourite varies between the Crasto and Vargellas. 1988 is tougher and would not immediately spring to mind as a candidate to replace Warre 1977, but if you want to try something from 1988, see if you can find the Fonseca Guimaraens (which crops up in supermarkets occasionally) or the Madalena. Both are young and delicious. 1989 is a curious vintage that you will have to try for yourself and make up your own mind - I suggest trying the Cavadinha or the Skeffington, if you can find them. The Vesuvio is atypical of the wines from this quinta as it was stored in the Douro and so acquired some baked characteristics that are not in the 1991 or later wines.

But you might also like to consider planning ahead for the longer term. While the 1992 ports from Taylor Fladgate are pricey, there are some relative bargains to be found in the 1991 wines. These wines are starting to drink really well and earlier in the year when a few of them cropped up in our "bring a bottle wrapped in foil to share with fellow port lovers" sessions I was very surprised at how well they were drinking. 1994 is a vintage with lots of hype and is expensive, but easily found and the 1994 Vesuvio is a monumental wine. 1995 is an overlooked and very impressive vintage - perhaps one to stock up for the future. 1997 is a headline vintage, generally making wines with lots of tannic backbone and which will take many years to soften to the the level of the Warre 1977...but these are wines which are currently closed down, out of balance and just plain awkward to drink. This means that there are some bargains to be found as supply is slightly in excess of demand. If you wanted to be drinking 1997 ports in 20 years time then now might be a good time to be buiying them.

But the best idea I have heard yet is for us to organise an evening of fine port and good company and give you the chance to try a few bottles all in one night.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 23:46 Tue 17 May 2011
by jdaw1
PhilW: there seems to be some enthusiasm for the try-and-see idea. Please start a thread in Organising Tastings and Get-togethers, suggesting which dates can work for you. Please give a useful title to the thread, perhaps ‟PhilW’s New House Port”. Others will say which of those dates they can make, one will be chosen, and things can move forward from there.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 22:05 Wed 18 May 2011
by JacobH
AHB wrote:1987 saw some great wines being made. My favourite varies between the Crasto and Vargellas.
A Crasto 1987 is not something I’ve heard of before; I didn’t realise they made Vintage Port before the 1990s. Was it generally released in the usual way?

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 08:10 Thu 19 May 2011
by PhilW
jdaw1 wrote:PhilW: there seems to be some enthusiasm for the try-and-see idea. Please start a thread in Organising Tastings and Get-togethers, suggesting which dates can work for you. Please give a useful title to the thread, perhaps ‟PhilW’s New House Port”. Others will say which of those dates they can make, one will be chosen, and things can move forward from there.
Sure, will do. As I haven't yet had chance to meet up for an event (formal or informal), I'm not sure what usual practise/organisation is, so will likely need some advice; Am thinking of things like venue (any particular booking requirements to get right room, glasses, whether people bring pre-decanted or other arrangements, or whether all that side is only done for formal tastings, that kind of thing). Will start off posting as requested with a place, date and theme and check response.

Phil.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 09:10 Thu 19 May 2011
by JacobH
PhilW wrote:Sure, will do. As I haven't yet had chance to meet up for an event (formal or informal), I'm not sure what usual practise/organisation is, so will likely need some advice; Am thinking of things like venue (any particular booking requirements to get right room, glasses, whether people bring pre-decanted or other arrangements, or whether all that side is only done for formal tastings, that kind of thing). Will start off posting as requested with a place, date and theme and check response.
Phil, assuming that you can get to London, the usual venue for informal tastings is The Crusting Pipe in the basement of Covent Garden. If there are ≤ 6 people we usually ask them to book the Board Room for us, otherwise the Tunnel. If we ask them at the time of booking they will provide glasses (we usually need x², x being the number of people at the tasting). However, if you know of any other venues where we can get a large number of glasses, some acceptable food, and not have to pay excessive corkage, then please do suggest them; we are always looking out for new places.

Usually people bring their Ports pre-decanted and wrapped in tin-foil though it’s not the end of the world if we have to do it there. For these things we usually double-decant by decanting the Port into a decanter, washing out the bottle, and then decanting it back into the bottle. There’s some more information in the Organising Tastings FAQ thread.

Unless, however, you would like to do something else, we are usually very informal about these things; they are usually a good chance to try out some new Ports, see how good you are at guessing what Ports are when served blind and so on!

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 11:34 Thu 19 May 2011
by PhilW
Jacob, thanks for the info.

From reading through old threads I'd assumed TCP as from recent tastings, plus I checked their menu and the steak looked enticing, assuming we also eat?! Good to know about the double pre-decant (makes sense) and that they supply glasses for us for informal. Have posted for an informal get together and will see what response it like.

Phil.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 11:46 Thu 19 May 2011
by jdaw1

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 13:49 Thu 19 May 2011
by Alex Bridgeman
JacobH wrote:
AHB wrote:1987 saw some great wines being made. My favourite varies between the Crasto and Vargellas.
A Crasto 1987 is not something I’ve heard of before; I didn’t realise they made Vintage Port before the 1990s. Was it generally released in the usual way?
I've only ever seen the Crasto '87 in Portugal - but it's worth keeping an eye out for it as it is a very good port.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 07:41 Thu 26 May 2011
by PhilW
As part of my search, I tried some Grahams 83 at the weekend; I had high hopes for this as viable candidate port, since while I prefer the Warre 77 to Graham 77, the G77 is also extremely good imo, with a much sweeter sticky style and lovely flavour. Sadly, the bottle of Graham 83 I opened was partly corked, so any judgement on its' taste is likely flawed :(

Overall it did seem to improve a little 24 hours later; still seemed to have a very closed, intense dark flavour; If this is typical of the G83, then while ok it would definitely not be the 'new staple', but realistically I think I have to reserve judgement on this one and try again sometime, hoping for a better quality bottle (this bottle was purchased from reputable store from where I've had previous different bottles all without issue).

The search continues.

Phil.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 08:30 Thu 26 May 2011
by jdaw1
Phil: we have a section for Tasting Notes. Please do post there your comments on G83.

Convention in the TN section is title threads with the year first: ‟1983 Graham”.

You might also also want to mention it in Corked/Spoilt Ports - Name and Shame, with a link to your TN thread.

Thank you.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 16:13 Sun 28 Aug 2011
by PhilW
Thanks to all for their suggestions and the various ports I have had opportunity to try at a couple of offlines, I currently have a short-list of suitable replacement 'favourite' vintage ports, as follows:

1= Calem 85
1= Morgan 91
3 [runner up] Warre 91

However, since both top choices are essentially unavailable for purchase, the "runner up" of Warre91 is currently top candidate, although it is only really just ready for drinking now, but will likely become a future staple.
A case of Warre77 is planned in the interim while stocks last ;) and I look forward to many more offlines and tasting to discover other delicious ports :D

PhilW.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 08:01 Thu 01 May 2014
by PhilW
A recent discussion brought me back to this thread, which I started on joining TPF. Interesting to see how things have changed; Rather than a single replacement "house port", I now effectively have three: Cá85, F83 and Ch85, plus the old favourite W77 though I have that less often. The Mg91 did not stand up to the test of repeated tasting (or availability), and W91 I can still see as an option for the future, but it is still a touch young for now.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 18:35 Thu 01 May 2014
by LGTrotter
This is the first time I have noticed this thread (I see the controversy around VA and the '85s raged even in those far off days) and I wondered if you still have the objection to LBVs and crusted ports that you expressed back then. I sort of agree with you about the LBVs but I have been drinking a lovely Graham 98 crusted over the last 2 days. I am fully on board with the Warre 77 and the Churchill 85 but I have always been underwhelmed by the Fonseca 83.

I think your house ports are rather glamorous, I tend to look for something sub £20 as an everyday drinker and so have tended to go for crusted ports, the odd SQVP and supermarket BOBs of which Tesco 94 seems to be the prima inter pares. I think of them as 'cellar defenders', but if I was back then offering a one off recommendation I would have said Warre 80.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 19:43 Thu 01 May 2014
by LGTrotter
I am also a bit curious about how many bottles it takes to count as a 'house port', is it one case or more? Or is 'house port' more a state of mind than a number?

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 20:42 Thu 01 May 2014
by PhilW
LGTrotter wrote:I wondered if you still have the objection to LBVs and crusted ports that you expressed back then.
I still feel the same way about young LBV, but I thoroughly enjoy the older unfiltered LBVs (>25yr old); I've had some old crusted which I would rate as highly as VP, younger crusted (such as the G98crusted which I also had recently) is just too young for my taste though.
LGTrotter wrote:I am also a bit curious about how many bottles it takes to count as a 'house port', is it one case or more? Or is 'house port' more a state of mind than a number?
LGTrotter wrote:I think your house ports are rather glamorous, I tend to look for something sub £20 as an everyday drinker and so have tended to go for crusted ports, the odd SQVP and supermarket BOBs of which Tesco 94 seems to be the prima inter pares. I think of them as 'cellar defenders', but if I was back then offering a one off recommendation I would have said Warre 80.
I think it depends on the individual, in large part depending on the quantity and frequency with which you open bottles. For example, if you had F27x8, F55x12, F70x40 (I wish!) and only drank one bottle every other month, then F70 could be your "cellar defender". In my original post, this wasn't intended to be an "everyday drinker" for me, but a replacement for W77 as a regular favourite treat. Old Warre LBVs had been helping to ensure that I didn't drink too many of these either, until recently when I drank the last of them.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 10:17 Fri 02 May 2014
by Alex Bridgeman
LGTrotter wrote:I am also a bit curious about how many bottles it takes to count as a 'house port', is it one case or more? Or is 'house port' more a state of mind than a number?
To me, a house port is more a state of mind than a number. I consider a house port to be a go to port, one of which you have a reasonable stock acquired at a modest price and to which you can turn when you need a comfort drink.

In my mind there is can be a difference between a house port and a cellar defender. The cellar defender is a cheap bottle acquired to provide a good quality drink and to make it easier to resist the temptation of something being saved for another day, or something which really should be left alone for longer as you know it will be better in 10 years, but it tastes so good now... The two could be the same - and perhaps the Graham 1998 Crusted is a good example - but they could also be very different. I tend to use any LBVs I've acquired as cellar defenders (I am still drinking my Croft 2004 LBV in half bottles that were bought from Tesco at £2.49 a half). The closest I have to a house port is Churchill 1985, which is very nice current drinking and was acquired at around £25 per bottle, but I don't open one often enough to really consider it my house port. I aim for variety rather than develop a comfortable and reliable go-to bottle.

Part of the reason why can be seen from my last few ports. We had some fabulous 1996 ports that really set me in the mood for good, mature 40-50 year-old port so I opened a bottle of Dalva 1970. It was lovely, but by the end of the bottle it was tasting a bit flabby and with a touch of VA. So I opened a bottle of Roriz 1995. This is fabulous - so much blackcurrant fruit but with lovely charcoal tannins that give a totally different experience to the Dalva. I'm not sure what will get opened next but it could well be a Croft 2004 LBV, just to see how they are at the moment.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 21:27 Fri 02 May 2014
by LGTrotter
The difference between a cellar defender and a house port is clearer to me now. I am also with Phil that the Graham crusted 98 is too young. I am turning over the idea of a house port in that I have recently stocked up on Graham 77 and though I was tempted by other wines at a similar price (which I don't own) I ended up going with the Graham because I love it and want to see how it goes over the years. I thought that it was all of a piece with my encroaching 'old fart' status that I wanted consistency rather than variety. In this sense the concept of a house port may also be indicative of incipient senility, but I shall rage against the dying of the light by buying some reasonable Quarles Harris I have seen, this is not I realise evidence of being 'down with the kids'.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 01:57 Sat 03 May 2014
by TLW
LGTrotter wrote:I thought that it was all of a piece with my encroaching 'old fart' status that I wanted consistency rather than variety. In this sense the concept of a house port may also be indicative of incipient senility, but I shall rage against the dying of the light by buying some reasonable Quarles Harris I have seen, this is not I realise evidence of being 'down with the kids'.
Not in the least bit senile (at least as far as I can remember), and in the interest of maintaining a more highbrow conversation, I have let all of my junior staff know that personally prefer being referred to as the slightly more aesthetically pleasing "vintage flatulence".

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 05:59 Sat 03 May 2014
by jdaw1
TLW wrote:in the interest of maintaining a more highbrow conversation, I have let all of my junior staff know that personally prefer being referred to as the slightly more aesthetically pleasing "vintage flatulence".
An excellent phrasing. I smiled.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 07:39 Sat 03 May 2014
by idj123
I like the term 'cellar defenders' and right now the Offley 97 LBV (purchased via JDAW) seems to be meeting this definition-certainly as far as weeknights are concerned and before 'something for the weekend sir'...?

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 07:57 Sat 03 May 2014
by jdaw1
idj123 wrote:Offley 97 LBV (purchased via JDAW)
2007.

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 09:04 Sat 03 May 2014
by idj123
Yes, 2007 indeed-a case of number dyspepsia!

Re: Finding a new favourite vintage port

Posted: 19:46 Tue 06 May 2014
by LGTrotter
Having wandered back from cellar defenders to the nub of the issue to whit; what is the house port? Mine has gone from Croft 77 to Graham 85, then onto Graham 77. I love them all, probably because I've seen them all grow up a bit.