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Thread title re-named by DRT to aid future searches on this topic.

I have just in my rather foolhardy way gone and bought a somewhat iffy but cheap magnum of Warre 1970. The trouble is that it is weeping. I don't want to drink it right now, partly due to the weather and partly as I like to let bottles settle for a few months at least before drinking them. Is there anything I can do to seal it up enough to lay it on its side for six months?

I realise that the best solution would probably be to just to leave it stood up until I drink it but I wondered if there was anything I could do with beeswax or something?

You could re-wax it others here have more expertise. But, as it seems that you know, the best course is to stand it until you drink it, and to drink it at first opportunity. There are worse hardships than being forced to drink a magnum of W70.

That is true, there are worse fates. I should not repine.

I thought that rewaxing might work, it doesn't look in too bad nick apart from the weep. The colour and fill both look OK which makes me think it might be a recent weep, probably brought about by being moved.

I suppose that I am also daunted by a magnum of port. I can't quite bring myself to look it in the eye if you know what I mean.

I have a rather old bottle with a small amount of cling film. Probably not a long term solution but avoids any mess!

LGTrotter wrote:I suppose that I am also daunted by a magnum of port. I can't quite bring myself to look it in the eye if you know what I mean.

J R R Tolkien, in The Hobbit, wrote:So now there was nothing left to do but ! unpack the ponies. They distributed the packages as fairly as they could, though Bilbo thought his lot was wearisomely heavy, and did not at all like the idea of trudging for miles and miles with all that on his back.

"Don't you worry!" said Thorin. "It will get lighter all too soon. Before long I expect we shall all wish our packs heavier, when the food begins to run short."

Magnums are just the same: they might seem intimidating at the start, but all too soon they become empty and the drink begins to run short.

benread wrote:I have a rather old bottle with a small amount of cling film. Probably not a long term solution but avoids any mess!

What a bold stroke. However I would worry that cling film is a rather slender reed to rest a magnum of port on. I should be in a constant state of anxiety about it.

LGTrotter wrote:a constant state of anxiety

Which could be lessened, if not eliminated, with a large drink.

For a temporary fix, cling film secured with a tight elastic band is effective.

For a longer term seal, re-wax or overwax the bottle.

However, you have bought a 43yr old bottle in high summer, and noticed it's leaking slightly. This is not so unusual.

Try rinsing the capsule under a cold tap for a few seconds and then dab it dry with a paper towel. Lay the bottle on its side in your cellar or wine fridge, and keep a close eye on it.

- You may find it never leaks again..

Is there a standard waxing procedure? I thought beeswax as a neutral wax but if there is an accepted norm I would be keen know about it. There is not much left of the wax capsule left and I quite fancied having a go at rewaxing.

Despite Tom’s backing for the cling film idea I still feel that it would not be decorous. Like a baseball cap on a Vermeer.

I shall try the trick of running it under a cold tap and laying it down quietly (out of context this sounds less innocent).

Is there a standard waxing procedure?

There are two main approaches to this:

1) Secure a supply of traditional sealing wax, melt carefully, dip your cleaned bottle neck quickly, make a half turn of the bottle after withdrawing from the wax and then plunge into cold water. This is the commercial way of waxing because it is quick. You can find YouTube videos demonstrating the method.

Downside: You will probably find it takes time, and a lot of mess, before you get it right. The resulting wax coat is extremely brittle, and the seal tends to be imperfect.

2) Secure a supply of the wax sold as bottle sealing wax by British Wax (http://www.britishwax.com) This is a more rubbery wax that makes a superb seal, which I've been using for the past five years.

- I melt the wax in a one pint stove enamel camping mug which I place in a saucepan into which I've placed a little sunflower oil to transfer the heat. Heat the wax slowly and carefully, not leaving it unattended - hot wax burns readily.. You want the wax to be just over it's melting point, too hot and it becomes too fluid, with not enough adhering to the bottle.

- Clean the top of the bottle carefully. I start by using an old toothbrush, which I dip into hydrogen peroxide - this both sterilises the surface, and frothes on contact with cork, lifting old grime as it does so. This is the only chemical I trust not to taint the content of the bottle. If old wax is still adhering well enough to withstand the rigours of the toothbrush, I now leave it in situ and wax over it.

- After rinsing, I dry the top of bottle with a paper towel, before degreasing the glass of the neck with a paper towel soaked in acetone. The evaporation of the acetone also chills the glass, deterring a phenomenen on leaky bottles whereby the heat of the hot wax drives fluid out of the cork, creating a small 'blow hole' in the new wax.

- Dip the neck of the bottle into the wax and immediately remove it, holding the bottle at 45 degrees over the wax pot, spinning it in your hands as the excess wax drains off. When this has reduced to fine stream, start slowly raising the bottle to the vertical, spinning all the while.

- Next, check the new wax for air bubbles. If found, light a match and hold it close to the wax. This will pop the bubble, and dancing the flame next to the wax will usually cause the resultant void to heal over.

- If you make a mess of the operation, you can either cut the new wax off and start again, or make a second dip. Use acetone in liberal quantity to chill and harden the wax, before dipping again.

- Don’t forget that acetone is highly flammable..!

uncle tom wrote:not leaving it unattended - hot wax burns readily

uncle tom wrote:Don’t forget that acetone is highly flammable

Careful. And make a will.

Me, some acetone, wax and hydrogen peroxide, what could possibly go wrong? I picture myself, sans eyebrows wandering away from the smoking ruin that was my home. I’ve just got to do it.

This was a most complete set of instructions. Does it not belong in a resource index somewhere?

I would have thought that a bain-marie with sunflower oil would be a bit fierce in terms of heat; surely the melting point of most wax would be below 100 degrees?

Thank you for this, we are not worthy.

LGTrotter wrote:This was a most complete set of instructions. Does it not belong in a resource index somewhere

An excellent idea. A link to Tom's post has been added to this index in the Reference section.

I would have thought that a bain-marie with sunflower oil would be a bit fierce in terms of heat; surely the melting point of most wax would be below 100 degrees?

You can use water, but your mug of wax will tend to float in it if you use too much, or evaporate away if you use a little.

Be careful not to get any water in your wax pot - the combination can result in an eruption of hot wax..

I have had a similar situation with a few other bottles over time, including an over-sized magnum of 1963 Dow. Most were dipped in paraffin as per the above, and I do not recall any problems with the contents, although am not sure that I have opened more than one. The 1963 Dow is the question. It was weeping, and I did not want to test what has historically been not the tightest of seals on a cork; I therefore took a small pan of melted paraffin into the cellar and with a cheap basting brush applied it lberally around the top of the bottle and well down the neck, forming what I believe to be a good seal.

As it is probably approaching its peak maturity anyway, it will be sacificed this Christmas on the occasion of a very good friend's 50th birthday. I will let everyone know how it was, but I am less than optimistic about this one. Thus, am likely to include it in a broader tasting of one port each from the 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s, and 00s - in which case, tasting notes may be illegible.

TLW wrote:an over-sized magnum of 1963 Dow

If Carlsberg made magnums!

And the last question is do I go and get another one? I should really try the one I’ve got before venturing on the next. But I always think that having two bottles of a wine is better that just a singleton, one to wash and one to wear so to speak. Or Einmal ist kienmal if I was feeling sophisticated.

LGTrotter wrote:Einmal ist kienmal if I was feeling sophisticated.

Or keinmal, if really super-sophisticated

A palpable hit. I promise never to try and be sophisticated again, from now on it's Somerset hick. I shall change into my smock and find a piece of straw to suck.

And the last question is do I go and get another one?

Caution! - put two port bottles together and they start breeding..

uncle tom wrote:

And the last question is do I go and get another one?

Caution! - put two port bottles together and they start breeding..

Fear not, I have found a way of stopping the Malthusian expansion of their population; drinking.

I remember thinking some years ago that a dozen good ports would be enough, I've got the other side of ten dozen and still fear for the future. Is there no end to it?

LGTrotter wrote:I remember thinking some years ago that a dozen good ports would be enough, I've got the other side of ten dozen and still fear for the future. Is there no end to it?

Age of death of father, plus ten years, minus current age, multiplied by desired drinking rate in bottles per year.

Some data might be missing:
• If father alive, or died of non-natural causes, or died unhelpfully young, assume greater of 90 and your current age plus 10.
• If desired drinking rate unknown, assume three a week for yourself so 156 a year. Adjust if married. (If wife a drinker, adjust up. If wife a disciplinarian, adjust slightly down.)

Three a week! I have some shopping to do.

LGTrotter wrote:Three a week! I have some shopping to do.

He was being conservative. You are British, after all. Any lower of an estimate and one might have thought you were American.

And he was talking about over-sized magnums

Glenn E. wrote:

LGTrotter wrote:Three a week! I have some shopping to do.

He was being conservative. You are British, after all. Any lower of an estimate and one might have thought you were American.

You all went off and left us three bottle men too befuddled to follow.

DRT wrote:

LGTrotter wrote:This was a most complete set of instructions. Does it not belong in a resource index somewhere

An excellent idea. A link to Tom's post has been added to this index in the Reference section.

I suggest this post on re-waxing procedure is worth breaking out as a separate item, entitled something like "How to re-wax bottles" or similar; this would make it easier to find for the future. Also, Tom was kind enough to demonstrate/teach this to me recently and I took a few photos of the process, which could be uploaded and attached to such post if desired.

A couple of additional remarks from a newbie to this process, based on the experience:

Uncle Tom wrote:- Dip the neck of the bottle into the wax...

i.e. fully invert the bottle and quickly dip the neck of the bottle into the wax...

Uncle Tom wrote:- Next, check the new wax for air bubbles...

and if you're not sure whether something is an air bubble, wave a (lit) match near it briefly to see if it pops; it usually is and does.

LGTrotter wrote:And the last question is do I go and get another one? I should really try the one I’ve got before venturing on the next. But I always think that having two bottles of a wine is better that just a singleton, one to wash and one to wear so to speak. Or Einmal ist kienmal if I was feeling sophisticated.

I agree; I almost always buy in a minimum of a pair where possible, with preference for 3 off. That way, when you drink the first bottle and find it is delicious, you know you have a treat waiting for you for another day (and if you bought 3, one treat you can drink sometime without running out, therefore avoiding the "I can't drink that one, it's the last one" issue!)

PhilW wrote:

DRT wrote:

LGTrotter wrote:This was a most complete set of instructions. Does it not belong in a resource index somewhere

An excellent idea. A link to Tom's post has been added to this index in the Reference section.

I suggest this post on re-waxing procedure is worth breaking out as a separate item, entitled something like "How to re-wax bottles" or similar; this would make it easier to find for the future. Also, Tom was kind enough to demonstrate/teach this to me recently and I took a few photos of the process, which could be uploaded and attached to such post if desired.

An easier solution would be for me to rename this thread. Would that be acceptable?

Perfectly acceptable.

LGTrotter wrote:Perfectly acceptable.

Done.

This is great information about re-sealing & waxing. I will order some wax from British wax. May I ask how much wax is needed, if someone with experience could offer suggestions for how much to order?

JB vintage wrote:This is great information about re-sealing & waxing. I will order some wax from British wax. May I ask how much wax is needed, if someone with experience could offer suggestions for how much to order?

If I recall correctly, there is a minimum order of 25kg or something similar - which costs about £15-20 depending on the colour you want. I last bought some about 6 years ago and still have about 10kg left!

Incidentally, I use bright red so if you want to distinguish your rewaxed bottles from mine, please choose a different colour.

25 kg being the minimum order makes it not be too difficult to chose order quantity. Choosing between minimum order and any alternative.... I think the tiny amount of 25 kg would suffice.

Are you satisfied with it? Does it stop initial leakage? Or does it seep through anyway? I am not really enthusiastic about dipping very old and fragile port into hot wax... but if that is the best alternative I will try it.

I have actually used cling film with quite good result. I thought I was the only one in the world using such a solution but I saw in this thread that I am not alone. However, I do not trust it for more than a few months even though I have never experienced it to fail. I believe I have used cling film for 5 years or so, but it feels a bit too temporary and I an eager to try a better alternative.

JB vintage wrote:I am not really enthusiastic about dipping very old and fragile port into hot wax... but if that is the best alternative I will try it.

I re-waxed three 1965s and a 1955 today without any problems and the seals look good. I think I am using the wax Tom recommended, mainly because he gave it to me!

I have rewaxed a large number of bottles and it does seem to be very effective. With one exception, I've not needed to rewax for a second time.

The heat from the molten wax does not seem to affect the port. I guess the cold glass cushions the port from the immediate surge of heat and by the time the glass is hot you already have the bottle upright again!

If I recall correctly, there is a minimum order of 25kg or something similar

I think the minimum order is 3Kg.

uncle tom wrote:

Is there a standard waxing procedure?

2) Secure a supply of the wax sold as bottle sealing wax by British Wax (http://www.britishwax.com) This is a more rubbery wax that makes a superb seal, which I've been using for the past five years.

I just noticed that British Wax are based about 2 miles from me! If anyone I see regularly ever wants assistance with a collection/delivery, please ask.

uncle tom wrote:

Is there a standard waxing procedure?

There are two main approaches to this: ...

Thanks for this, Tom, I shall be giving it a try.

This process requires some trial & error before it can be perfected. I've rewaxed quite a few bottles over the past few years and just by doing it a few times I've perfected the process a bit which has resulted in a much better, cleaner capsule.

This is an excellent thread!
I have just purchased 5 kilos of dark green wax, if anyone wants to share some please let
me know.

Thanks

A couple of recent observations:

1) Waxing over old foil capsules.

This works, but the heat of the wax causes the small amount of air beneath the foil to expand and create a blow-hole, somewhere along the edge of the foil. Sealing this hole and dipping again is effective, but in most cases, removing the foil prior to dipping is probably preferable.

2) Priming.

Capsules with deep cracks or voids caused by cork decay also tend to sport large air bubbles when dipped. Priming the tops of the bottles by painting on wax to fill these voids prior to dipping is very effective at preventing this. It is even possible to create a temporary seal on a bottle that has been stored vertically and physically leaks when brought to the horizontal. Wax can be painted on using either a cheap disposable artist's paintbrush, or the back end of a long matchstick.

Note: If a bottle has a depressed cork, you may regret filling the void with wax as it can be difficult to get out again. Fill the void using a a stiff mix of ordinary flour and water, and leave the bottle upright for a couple of days to dry out, prior to waxing.

Would flour and water left for a couple of days not encourage bacterial growth around the top of the cork, perhaps?

Would flour and water left for a couple of days not encourage bacterial growth around the top of the cork, perhaps?

If made as a stiff mix (as specified) and put in a place of moderate humidity, it quickly dries to form a hard mass without evident fermentation or other bacterial activity. I chose this formula for having the least risk of tainting the content of the bottle.

A similar formulation, but with the addition of salt, was used to create naval hardtack - or ship's biscuits - food that did not readily go bad.

For me, wheat flour potentially poisons the bottle!

Seems a bit risky to me, particularly if the underside of the flour plug becomes moist when the bottle is laid down.

A wax plug intuitively feels safer, even if a little tricky to remove when the bottle is eventually opened.

For me, wheat flour potentially poisons the bottle!

I've experimented with this a couple of times, and both the theory and practice seems OK - why do you reckon wheat might be poisonous?

The alcohol content should be too high for fermentation to kick off from the wine, and even then the products should be taste neutral - or am I missing something..?

Another option is to fill the void with pure plaster of Paris, but I'm concerned it may be too hard - will do a trial..

DaveRL wrote:For me, wheat flour potentially poisons the bottle!

Whether or not this is what is being referred to, a significant minority are gluten intolerant so drinking something that has been in contact with wheat flour paste could create problems - especially if that contact was unknown or unexpected.

uncle tom wrote:

For me, wheat flour potentially poisons the bottle!

I've experimented with this a couple of times, and both the theory and practice seems OK - why do you reckon wheat might be poisonous?

.

Ah. Poisonous to me. I can only have gluten at 20ppm as I have Coeliac disease, as do about 1 in 100 in the UK apparently (though only 1 in 4oo actually diagnosed), so I'd have to pass on any bottle sealed with wheat flour. Many other flours would be OK.

The wheat flour is outside the cork, not in the drink, so it should still be safe. But you might be more cautious than that.

jdaw1 wrote:The wheat flour is outside the cork, not in the drink...

True, but only if every last trace were successfully removed when pulling the cork. If any of the paste adhered to the neck of the bottle as the port was poured out, some would dissolve in the liquid to be consumed - but whether more than 200ppm I cannot estimate.