DOC-bagging

[JacobH]

One of my aims for this year was to get more familiar with other wine regions of Portugal than the Douro. I am currently experiencing an opportunity to drink more Portuguese wines than I might normally have. As a result, I thought I might see how many different DOCs & other regions I could “bag”.

The first exercise is to get a decent understanding of the scale of the problem.

My understanding is that there are currently 28 DOCs; 3 IPRs (the category below a DOC); and 14 Vinho Regionals (the lowest of the regulated categories which cover the whole country).

I think, as a start, I can knock a few of these off:

• The chances of ever seeing a bottle of Madeirense DOC (the non-fortified wine from Madeira) or Madeiran VR outside the island seems about nil.
• The three IPRs (Pico, Biscoitos and Graciosa) are all from the Azores and, again, getting a bottle of them strikes me as unlikely, as well as the VR from the islands. That said, I would like to try the Pico and Biscoitos DOCs since these seem to be oxidised fortified wines made from similar grapes to Madeira, if I ever come across one.
• Lourinhã (one of many DOCs near Lisbon) is apparently only used for producing brandy.

I also get a sense that some DOCs are produced in quite massive quantities whilst some of the DOCs around Lisbon are scarcely made.

Whilst I have drunk wines from many of these regions in the past, I am starting from a clean sheet for this exercise.

Has anyone else made it through the full house?

[JacobH]

I start with the top and bottom of the country. A big-brand Vinho Verde DOC (probably Casal Garcia but I can’t quite remember) is as I always remember it to be: quite refreshing if somewhat bland. A Syrah from Quinta do Barranco Longo was a reasonably pricey bottle for an Algarve VR and really very disappointing. I don’t think I’ve drunk any Algarve wines before but this seemed to hit all of the problems with them: far too little substance and acidity for its strong alcohol. Perhaps the DOCs will be more interesting?

Things then get better. The 2019 Herdade do Esporão, Monte Velho Tinto is a cheap wine from the Alentejo DOC. I was defeated by the label until I unpicked that Aragonez is Tinta Roriz / Tempranillo and Trincadeira is Tinta Amarela. Trying to get on top of things like this is exactly why I thought I would engage in some bagging. The other grapes are Touriga Nacional and Syrah. Fresh and nicely balanced, I would happily have a big stash of this in my cellar for easy drinking. Recommended.

Finally, I reminded myself that when you have no idea how long a bottle has been open a Madeira DOC is always a safe-choice since it is unlikely to have been harmed. No idea what it was, but would guess a young sweet Negra Mole blend which was perfectly acceptable with some pineapple.

[MigSU]

I have, but I'm from Portugal, so it's sort of cheating.

If you need any info or help, don't be afraid to ask.

[JacobH]

I have, but I'm from Portugal, so it's sort of cheating.

I’m not sure I’d count that as cheating! I’d be surprised if many people have got the whole lot, especially some of the real oddities like Madeirense DOC or Carcavelos! How are you doing on sub-regions? Aren’t there about 10 for Vinho Verde, alone?

If you need any info or help, don't be afraid to ask.

Thank you!

I’m still picking off the easy regions at the moment. For Bairrada DOC, there is some Aliança Danúbio Bruto, a dry sparkling wine. It’s another cheap one but much more drinkable than the endless cheap prosecco that we now get in the UK, much of which is barely drinkable. Again, trying to up my knowledge, I notice one of the grapes that goes into the blend is Baga: a red grape that is lightly pressed for the sparkling wines (à la pinot noir or pinot meunier in champagne). I’ve drunk sparkling Bairradas before but I don’t think I’ve tried a Baga red. I think Dirk Niepoort is quite keen on them and has been making them in recent years. I should look out for one.

I also tried a little bit of a dry white from the far North, Soalheiro ALLO, which I think counts as a Minho VR rather than a vinho verde & my first Port of this exercise: Van Zellar 10 Year Old Tawny.

[MigSU]

I’m not sure I’d count that as cheating! I’d be surprised if many people have got the whole lot, especially some of the real oddities like Madeirense DOC or Carcavelos! How are you doing on sub-regions? Aren’t there about 10 for Vinho Verde, alone?

I've only had Madeirense DOC once, when I was in Madeira. It was a very forgettable wine (I couldn't even tell you which wine it was, to be completely honest), I just got it out of curiosity.
Carcavelos is another one that I've had only once. It was very very rare for a while, but it's been making a bit of a comeback, lately.
I also drank Algarve VR only once, a few years ago, at a cousin's wedding. It surprised me in how quite pleasantly drinkable it was - Barranco Longo Private Selection Red, a blend of Aragonez (Tinta Roriz) and Alicante Bouschet. I don't much care for Syrah, so I'm not surprised you didn't enjoy your bottle of Barranco Longo

I didn't get into the rabbit hole of playing the 'sub-region game'. I've had many by 'accident', but, as you say, VV alone has 9 of them, so it's something one only does if one really really wants to, for the sake of completeness.

Thank you!

I’m still picking off the easy regions at the moment. For Bairrada DOC, there is some Aliança Danúbio Bruto, a dry sparkling wine. It’s another cheap one but much more drinkable than the endless cheap prosecco that we now get in the UK, much of which is barely drinkable. Again, trying to up my knowledge, I notice one of the grapes that goes into the blend is Baga: a red grape that is lightly pressed for the sparkling wines (à la pinot noir or pinot meunier in champagne). I’ve drunk sparkling Bairradas before but I don’t think I’ve tried a Baga red. I think Dirk Niepoort is quite keen on them and has been making them in recent years. I should look out for one.

Baga is the grape variety of Bairrada (at least in reds). Widely used, widely respected, and widely loved - but very tricky to tame in the vineyard.
Bairrada sparklings are quite good, I like them a lot, and one can get great ones for very modest prices. I agree with you that, pound for pound (or euro for euro), it can beat proseccos in many price points.

I also tried a little bit of a dry white from the far North, Soalheiro ALLO, which I think counts as a Minho VR rather than a vinho verde & my first Port of this exercise: Van Zellar 10 Year Old Tawny.

That is correct, it's a Minho VR. I've had it, it's a pleasant, crisp white, Alvarinho+Loureiro.

I would've assumed you would've already crossed Port off your list

[JacobH]

I also drank Algarve VR only once, a few years ago, at a cousin's wedding. It surprised me in how quite pleasantly drinkable it was - Barranco Longo Private Selection Red, a blend of Aragonez (Tinta Roriz) and Alicante Bouschet. I don't much care for Syrah, so I'm not surprised you didn't enjoy your bottle of Barranco Longo

You can’t really go wrong with Aragonez / Tinta Roriz / Tempranillo, I don’t think. When I tried some single-varietal Ports many years ago, the only one that was really quite good was the Tinta Roriz!

Baga is the grape variety of Bairrada (at least in reds). Widely used, widely respected, and widely loved - but very tricky to tame in the vineyard.

That’s interesting. Thank you. Shows how much I have to learn...

I would've assumed you would've already crossed Port off your list

As I said I am starting from scratch for this exercise, and I don’t think the white Port in a cocktail counts!

I’m still picking off the lower fruits and so try some Dão DOC tonight. I ask for the Tinto by Pedra Cancela but am accidentally brought the Branco. Whites are very much not my thing but it seems rude not to drink it. It apparently primarily Encruzado, which I don’t know. However, it is really rather nice with toasted, even oaky, flavours that I don’t usually associate with Portuguese whites. But that is probably out of ignorance; I rarely drink them. Afterward, I try the Tinto. It’s what I think is a common blend for Dão: Touriga Nacional, Alfroucheiro, Tinta Roriz. It takes some time to open up but, when it does, it is excellent. Extremely floral it reminds me of a young, grapy VP which extremely high intensity; reasonably acidity and moderate tannins which are rounded and not agressive. Very enjoyable. Another one that I would happily have a stash of at home. I presume the Touriga Nacional is doing a lot of the heavily lifting here but I am also intrigued about the Alfroucheiro. Why is it grown in the Dão but not the Douro? And why don’t they use some Touriga Francesa to help the Touriga Nacional, as happens in Port?

[JacobH]

I am desperately trying to eradicate my prejudices against white wine. Accordingly, in order to bag a Alentejano VR, I have quite a session with the wines of Herdade da Malhadinha Nova. Four whites and a rose unfortunately confirms all of my prejudices against white wine generally. The most interesting is the rose but that is because it is a decent red in disguise. The best of the whites is probably Verdelho but my poor palate, destroyed by Port over-consumption, cries out for it to have been fortified and oxidised...

[MigSU]

In this particular case you're forgiven, since, in my view, Alentejo whites are mostly a lost cause (I make an exception for the mountainous areas of northeast Alentejo).

[MigSU]

I somehow missed this post...

I’m still picking off the lower fruits and so try some Dão DOC tonight. I ask for the Tinto by Pedra Cancela but am accidentally brought the Branco. Whites are very much not my thing but it seems rude not to drink it. It apparently primarily Encruzado, which I don’t know. However, it is really rather nice with toasted, even oaky, flavours that I don’t usually associate with Portuguese whites. But that is probably out of ignorance; I rarely drink them.

Encruzado is the premier white grape of the Dão. It's pretty much only found there. I love it. I've yet to encounter a bad Encruzado varietal wine.

Afterward, I try the Tinto. It’s what I think is a common blend for Dão: Touriga Nacional, Alfroucheiro, Tinta Roriz. It takes some time to open up but, when it does, it is excellent. Extremely floral it reminds me of a young, grapy VP which extremely high intensity; reasonably acidity and moderate tannins which are rounded and not agressive. Very enjoyable. Another one that I would happily have a stash of at home. I presume the Touriga Nacional is doing a lot of the heavily lifting here but I am also intrigued about the Alfroucheiro. Why is it grown in the Dão but not the Douro? And why don’t they use some Touriga Francesa to help the Touriga Nacional, as happens in Port?

I like alfrocheiro. High acidity, deep colour, vibrant red berries.

Why is it grown in the Dão but not the Douro? Tradition, I suppose (it's a Dão native, that has now migrated south en masse, particularly to Alentejo). The same reason why they don't much use TF in the Dão.
Otherwise we'd all be using the same grapes. Honestly, I prefer the current situation, makes it more fun and interesting

[MigSU]

If you're ever in my neck of the woods feel free to contact me, I'll happily share the contents of my cellar.

[JacobH]

If you're ever in my neck of the woods feel free to contact me, I'll happily share the contents of my cellar.

Thank you very much! I’d love that! (And of course, when you visit Kent, we can have some English wines; followed by some Port!).

I like alfrocheiro. High acidity, deep colour, vibrant red berries.

Why is it grown in the Dão but not the Douro? Tradition, I suppose (it's a Dão native, that has now migrated south en masse, particularly to Alentejo). The same reason why they don't much use TF in the Dão.
Otherwise we'd all be using the same grapes. Honestly, I prefer the current situation, makes it more fun and interesting

Yes: absolutely. But it is interesting why some grapes migrate all over the country and others do not!

I have progressed a bit further in my bagging today. Very much to my surprise, I find a rosé wine called Vulcânico by the Azores Wine Company that is Açores VR. The blend is equal parts of Saborinho, Agronomica, Aragones and Touriga Nacional. For a rosé, it’s rather nice. The red grapes give it some fruit but it also has a salinity that I wouldn’t expect. I'd buy this again.

I follow it up with a 2016 Dona Ermelinda Reserva. The front of the bottle says this is a Palmela DOC, although the “selo” on the back of the label says it is a Setúbal VR. I might claim one of each. The blend seems to have a decent amount of Castelao, the local grape for Palemla, together with an eclectic mix of Portugal-wide & international grapes: Touriga Nacional, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s been moderately oaked and is perfectly pleasant, though nothing special, unfortunately.

I also managed to pick up a bottle of Viúva Gomes Colares which was potentially one of the more challenging regions to bag, but I haven’t yet had an opportunity to try it!

[MigSU]

I follow it up with a 2016 Dona Ermelinda Reserva. The front of the bottle says this is a Palmela DOC, although the “selo” on the back of the label says it is a Setúbal VR. I might claim one of each. The blend seems to have a decent amount of Castelao, the local grape for Palemla, together with an eclectic mix of Portugal-wide & international grapes: Touriga Nacional, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s been moderately oaked and is perfectly pleasant, though nothing special, unfortunately.

I also managed to pick up a bottle of Viúva Gomes Colares which was potentially one of the more challenging regions to bag, but I haven’t yet had an opportunity to try it!

It's a Palmela DOC. I checked out the back label and I think your confusion comes from the fact that it says "Comissão Vitivinícola Regional da Península de Setúbal", which is just the certifying body ('Regional Commission').

To be perfectly honest I don't really rate Península de Setúbal table wines (I really rate their Moscatel wines, but that's a different kettle of fish). I find them...I suppose "unremarkable" would be the appropriate word.


It sounds like 90% of your time in Portugal is being occupied by chasing down and drinking particular wines

[nac]

...when you visit Kent...

Jacob - didn't realise you were in the GoE. Where?

[JacobH]

...when you visit Kent...

Jacob - didn't realise you were in the GoE. Where?

Just outside Sevenoaks. I assume you are, too? Whereabouts are you?

[JacobH]

It's a Palmela DOC. I checked out the back label and I think your confusion comes from the fact that it says "Comissão Vitivinícola Regional da Península de Setúbal", which is just the certifying body ('Regional Commission').

To be perfectly honest I don't really rate Península de Setúbal table wines (I really rate their Moscatel wines, but that's a different kettle of fish). I find them...I suppose "unremarkable" would be the appropriate word.


It sounds like 90% of your time in Portugal is being occupied by chasing down and drinking particular wines

Ah. Thank you very much. That makes sense. Did you know that some people visit Portugal and only drink Sagres & Super Bock?!

I haven’t had much luck in getting hold of more of the less-common table-wine DOCs, but I did come across a half-bottle of Villa Oeiras basic Carcavelos DOC. This is the “standard” blend of Arinto, Gallego Dourado and Ratinho which claims to be aged for 10 years. The colour is a rather attractive golden hue. The nose was a bit disappointing at room temperature: I got rather a lot of non-drinkable ether. Chilling it right down solved that problem. Tasting it, it was extremely nice. Not overly complex but with some aftertaste; it reminding me of a sweet white Port which had had some time aging to take the freshness of it. Will be interesting in trying some of their older blends if I ever see them

[MigSU]

It's a Palmela DOC. I checked out the back label and I think your confusion comes from the fact that it says "Comissão Vitivinícola Regional da Península de Setúbal", which is just the certifying body ('Regional Commission').

To be perfectly honest I don't really rate Península de Setúbal table wines (I really rate their Moscatel wines, but that's a different kettle of fish). I find them...I suppose "unremarkable" would be the appropriate word.


It sounds like 90% of your time in Portugal is being occupied by chasing down and drinking particular wines

Ah. Thank you very much. That makes sense. Did you know that some people visit Portugal and only drink Sagres & Super Bock?!

I haven’t had much luck in getting hold of more of the less-common table-wine DOCs, but I did come across a half-bottle of Villa Oeiras basic Carcavelos DOC. This is the “standard” blend of Arinto, Gallego Dourado and Ratinho which claims to be aged for 10 years. The colour is a rather attractive golden hue. The nose was a bit disappointing at room temperature: I got rather a lot of non-drinkable ether. Chilling it right down solved that problem. Tasting it, it was extremely nice. Not overly complex but with some aftertaste; it reminding me of a sweet white Port which had had some time aging to take the freshness of it. Will be interesting in trying some of their older blends if I ever see them

Jacob, did you get my PM?

[nac]

...when you visit Kent...

Jacob - didn't realise you were in the GoE. Where?

Just outside Sevenoaks. I assume you are, too? Whereabouts are you?

East Farleigh - just outside Maidstone.

[JacobH]

...when you visit Kent...

Jacob - didn't realise you were in the GoE. Where?

Just outside Sevenoaks. I assume you are, too? Whereabouts are you?

East Farleigh - just outside Maidstone.

Not very far away at all. We should try to have a Kent offline! (Whilst I can’t think I’ve seen a BYOB place in Kent, I don’t think I’ve ever looked for one).

[JacobH]

I have also been continuing with my DOC-bagging.

We opened the 2012 Viúva Gomes Colares DOC. This is an entirely new region to me. I really like it. It’s made, I think, from Ramisco which is the traditional Colares grape which is grown un-grafted in sandy soil near the coast. Apparently many of the vineyards are extremely old. Ramisco is often described as extremely tannic but I didn’t find that. It was quite a light and elegant wine, showing a decent amount of age with a herbal nose. I would definitely drink more of this and would also try some very old ones if I could find them.

I also try a no-name Moscatel de Setúbal to get the Setúbal DOC. Not very enjoyable: a rather too sweet and uncomplex wine that is nothing like the Moscatel do Douro I remember drinking years ago at Quinta do Portal. But probably not representative.

Moving up the cost, I have a glass of the 2013 Raposeira “Blanc de Noirs”, a sparkling wine from Távora Varosa DOC made from Touriga Francesa (!). It is not very good. Very little fruit and an oddly bitter aftertaste. I didn’t enjoy it and would much prefer another glass of the Aliança Danúbio sparkling from Bairrada.

For the final low-hanging fruit, I try Churchill’s 2007 Quinta do Gricha Douro DOC. There are two DOCs from this quinta: a “Gricha” and the “Quinta do Gricha”. The latter is the more serious wine. It is fabulous. Huge complexity; rounded tannins; beautiful aftertaste. It’s not a cheap wine (about £60 from Bar Douro’s wine shop) but one of the best Douro DOCs I have tried in recent years.

Thereafter, for Beira Interior DOC, I try the 2014 Vinha do Castelo by Quinta do Cardo. This is a pure Tinta Roriz. It blows me mind since I would never have guessed that that is what it was made from. The nose like no other Tinta Roriz / Tempranillo / Aragonez. It is incredible herbaceous, together with striking aromatic spices. Perhaps even some frankincense or oude. It very much reminds me of a much, much older wine. In the mouth, the herbs dominate again, with dill being the main one. It’s not a particularly expensive wine: I think it was about £17 a bottle in the UK, although it seems to be impossible to find. This is a real shame because I’d love to have some bottles of it. It’s not one of those wines you would drink every day but which would be great to have for when you are in the mood for something very specific.

[MigSU]

Ah, interesting. See, now you've tasted something I haven't: Churchill's Douro DOC. Never had any of them.

I like Beira Interior as a region, it has a lot of potential and some very good wines, with Quinta do Cardo being one of the good producers. I never had that 100% tinta Roriz, though, and now you've piqued my interest, I'll see if I can bag it.

[JacobH]

For a Tejo VR, I try a 2017 Quinta da Alorna which is a blend of Tinta Roriz, Castelão, Syrah and Alicante Bouschet. It’s perfectly drinkable but rather unexciting. Perhaps I should have tried something a little more premium, instead.

Ah, interesting. See, now you've tasted something I haven't: Churchill's Douro DOC. Never had any of them.

I used to have a glass of their Churchill’s Estate Tinto and sometimes the Reserve / Grand Reserve at Bar Douro which were both quite good, too, although I think they may have been re-arranging their table wine selections to put the Quinta do Gricha ones at the top rather than Churchill-branded ones (which I guess include wines from other estates, too).

[JacobH]

Asking a bar-man to bring me something “interesting” in a small wine bar which was rather generously stocked with Portuguese wines, he returns with another bottle of Vulcânico by the Azores Wine Company. This time it is the tinto / red which is a field blend, apparently containing a very large number of traditional Portuguese varieties. It’s quite a light red wine, especially for a field blend, but has wonderful complexity on the nose: some salinity and herbs. I thought I would mention this here since I might have assumed that wines from the Azores would be mere novelties, but they most definitely are not and well worth trying if you see one.

[MigSU]

Good stuff, Jacob. Your commitment is commendable.

[JacobH]

After a little break, I am back to DOC-bagging.

The first is the the 2018 Ilha tinto which is a pure Tinta Negra by DSW. DSW is named after its owner, Diana Silva, who seems to be aiming to produce decent DOC Madeirense wines. 2018 is, I think, her second harvest. The colour is extremely light, transparent red in the middle, fading almost to pink at the edges. The nose is quite pronounced: perhaps some soft fruits, maybe some flowers and some earthy characteristics. In the mouth, the acidity is very pronounced and dominant. There is little fruit, no sugar and only modest tannins. Not really my sort of style but interesting to try a tinta negra in its pure state like this. If you like acid-driven young wines, I think you would like this. I assume the huge amount of acidity will help it age, too. I am not sure if this is a far comparison, but I would much rather have another bottle one of the Azores reds than this.

[MigSU]

How many are you missing?

[JacobH]

Of the DOCs, the ones which I haven’t drunk or don’t currently own are: the four Algarve DOCs (Lagos, Portimão, Lagoa and Tavira); two from the Azores (Graciosa and Biscoitos); Lafões; Dotejo; and then a few from the Lisbon region: Encostas D’Aire; Alenquer; Arruda; and Torres Vedras. I think that’s 12 DOCS + Lourinhã. I can’t quite work out whether Lourinhã is exclusively brandy or just predominantly so.

Apart from Dotejo, most of these look pretty awkward to get in the UK, even importing them from Portugal. A few, like Encostas D’Aire are discussed much more than they are sold! I can’t actually see anyone advertising any Torres Vedras online for sale.

I think some of the VRs are also going to be a bit tricky, especially from regions where almost everything goes into a DOC. For example, I can’t remember ever seeing Duriense which I think is the VR for the Douro. But I am slightly less bothered about that!

I’ve also just bought my first non-classified Portuguese wine, a Buçaco tinto. The fact it doesn’t have a classification probably makes it even more unusual than many that do!

[MigSU]

I had a Duriense last week, and a might good wine it is: Quinta da Pedra Escrita Reserva (white).

[JacobH]

Tonight, we opened a 2018 Mira Arinto Bucelas, a DOC Bucelas. I know nothing about this region or its wines. It is located immediately North or Lisbon and looks to me like it is in serious danger of being swallowed up by urban sprawl! Arinto is, apparently, the traditional grape here. The internet tells me it produces wines with high acidity and lemon, but I think Mira have given it some quite sophisticated treatment. It’s very, very pale, with very little on the nose. But, in the mouth, the acidity is bright but not overpowering and the is a good freshness with limited fruit and only a touch of sweetness. As I have said before, I don’t really do white wines, but these seems pleasant enough and I think it is about as close to an archetypical Bucelas as one might find.

[JacobH]

Looking for a more serious red, we head North to the DOC Trás-os-Montes and the 2007 Quinta do Sobreiró de Cima “Vinha de Rio Torto”. This is apparently a blend of Touriga Nacional (50%), Alicante Bouschet (35%) and Trincadeira (15%) which has sulked away for 24 months in barrels and then six years in the bottle before they even release it. It’s still very dark in the middle, with quite a lot of fine particulate. The edge is fading, almost to a touch of orange, but only slightly. The nose is massive and powerful. Red cherries dominate. The mouth deliveries a huge sensation of different flavours. I first get some orange-like citrus. Then a huge umami sensation like drinking miso soup. This is followed by more dark fruits. Blackberries, maybe. And some cherries. The tannins are still present and strong but they are not excessive and reasonably elegant. Whilst not an expensive wine this is clearly one for the long-haul. I’d like to try this again in a few years, together with some of their more expensive blends.

[MigSU]

Good choice! I like their wines.

[JacobH]

Back to the Azores for a DOC Pico, the 2018 Frei Gigante white from, appropriately enough, the Ilha do Pico co-operative. It’s apparently a blend of Arinto do Açores, Verdelho and Terrantez do Pico which are vinified separately and then blended before bottling. I’m not sure if the Arinto is the same variety that is grown on the mainland and if the Terrantez is the same as is grown on Madeira. In any event, I really like this wine. It is light and fresh, with decent acidity and a touch of salinity that seems to be a feature of the wines from the Azores. They make some single-variety whites, too; some reds (although these mostly seem to be from international varieties like Syrah, Merlot etc.); and some fortified wines. I’m not terribly interested in international-style wines but would like to try the fortifieds at some point.

I think I have said this already but every wine I have had from the Azores has been excellent. I really under-estimated how good they would be. I also had a glass, yesterday, of a wine from the Canaries, the 2019 “Benje” by Envinate from Tenerife. It was really so disappointing and demonstrated to me that volcanic soils; a good climate; and traditional grape varieties do not automatically result in good wine.

[JacobH]

From DOC Távora Varosa, we open the Titan of Távora Varosa Daemon White 2018 by “Titan of Douro”. I don’t know this company, although apparently it is named after their dog—a Dogo Argentino—which is illegal to own in the UK! They are right down in the Távora valley (South of São João da Pesqueira) at the bottom of the Douro DOC region and, presumably, just over the border into Távora Varosa. Some of their Douro wines look quite interesting: there is one that is aged in amphorae which I haven’t seen in the Douro before.

This is a blend of Gouveia, Cerceal and Malvasia Fina. I can’t find out much about Gouveia which I don’t think I’ve come across before.

Anyway, the wine is a very attractive golden hay colour. Very little fruit on the nose but quite aromatic. In the mouth, it is powerfully acidic, with little fruit. I’m not sure how this was aged but I can’t detect any oak. Not really my sort of wine, unfortunately: too punchy and not rounded enough.

[MigSU]

From DOC Távora Varosa, we open the Titan of Távora Varosa Daemon White 2018 by “Titan of Douro”. I don’t know this company, although apparently it is named after their dog—a Dogo Argentino—which is illegal to own in the UK! They are right down in the Távora valley (South of São João da Pesqueira) at the bottom of the Douro DOC region and, presumably, just over the border into Távora Varosa. Some of their Douro wines look quite interesting: there is one that is aged in amphorae which I haven’t seen in the Douro before.

This is a blend of Gouveia, Cerceal and Malvasia Fina. I can’t find out much about Gouveia which I don’t think I’ve come across before.

Anyway, the wine is a very attractive golden hay colour. Very little fruit on the nose but quite aromatic. In the mouth, it is powerfully acidic, with little fruit. I’m not sure how this was aged but I can’t detect any oak. Not really my sort of wine, unfortunately: too punchy and not rounded enough.

It's probably Gouveio, which in the Douro is sometimes erroneously called verdelho. I happen to have quite a few hectares of Gouveio, it's a variety that I quite like, great acidity and ageing potential.

[JacobH]

Another wine from Lisboa, the 2019 Casa das Gaeiras Maria Gomes which is a DOC Óbidos. This is 100% Fernão Pires / Maria Gomes which the label tells me is “Portugal’s most classic white grape”! Despite the trolling, and the reasonably-modest price, I think this is pretty good. The wine has a very full, rounded mouthfeel. There is a sort-of buttery apple sensation followed by bracing acidity. The aftertaste is reasonably long with some violets. A bit too acidic for my tastes, but if you like the fuller-bodied whites this might be one to try.

Also, since last posting here, I drank what I think is my first unclassified Portuguese wine: a 2015 Buçaco tinto which is a mixture of wines from Dão and Bairrada made to be the house wine at the Bussaco Palace Hotel. I think it’s now made by Niepoort. It was a perfectly acceptable wine: bold and full-bodied but I felt it was a bit disappointing: not worth the €45 it costs.

[MigSU]

I think Fernão Pires is the most widely planted white grape variety in Portugal (in hectares).

[JacobH]

I can well believe that. But isn't calling it the "most classic" grape a bit of a stretch? Like calling negra mole the "most classic" Madeiran grape since it is the most planted one.

[MigSU]

That's a fair point.

[JacobH]

I have not bagged much since last posting.

I have become aware that there is at least one new DOC in Portugal: DOC Alentejo Vino de Talha being an Alentejo wine that has been aged in a clay pot—talha—rather than anything else. It probably existed in 2020 when I started this thread but I was oblivious to it since there doesn’t actually seem to be a readily-available list of the wine-regions in Portugal... Anyway, I have tried a few of them. I think the 2018 Bojador Talha White was the first to have DOC Talha label on it. They are all quite enjoyable, especially the whites which are fermented on their skins and move into orange territory. However, I have been completely spoiled by a couple of weeks in Georgia where the traditional “amber” wine is similarly aged in clay—qvevri—and is outstanding. I am just sad that it is not available very easily in the UK, except for silly money.

I have also just opened a DOC Encostas D’Aire a 2021 “Medieval de Ourém” Vinha da Malhada Rosé by Quinta do Montalto. This one is odd, even by Portuguese standards. Apparently the vineyard is planted in the manner of a monastry, with a high density of vines but pre-modern pruning techniques. The rosé seems to be made by taking 80% Fernão Pires, pressing and fermenting it and adding it to a barrel before topping it up with 20% Trincadeira must and leaving it to complete its fermentation. It rather reminds me of some of the Madeiran rosé table-wines: good and high acidity with decent body. It’s everything I would hope for in a rosé but then I only drink that type of wine about once a year!

I also tried, recently, some of the Azores’ fortified wine: a 10-year-old Verdelho by Ilha do Pico. It was fine and drinkable, but I’m afraid I don’t think I would seek it out (as opposed to say the Carcavelos from Villa Oeiras which, on re-tasting, is more than just a novelty: it’s very decent wine. Unfortunately, for this thread, I don’t think it is a new DOC since I think it comes within DOC Pico.

Eleven left!

[mosesbotbol]

I also tried, recently, some of the Azores’ fortified wine: a 10-year-old Verdelho by Ilha do Pico. It was fine and drinkable, but I’m afraid I don’t think I would seek it out (as opposed to say the Carcavelos from Villa Oeiras which, on re-tasting, is more than just a novelty: it’s very decent wine. Unfortunately, for this thread, I don’t think it is a new DOC since I think it comes within DOC Pico.

Eleven left!

Pico wines is available locally, generally at only real "neighborhood" liquor stores in heavily Portuguese enclaves. It's at a low price point. Next step up and it's port or madeira for most consumers.

I've seen wines jerepigo from Portugal and similarly low price point.

It's nothing special as you say humbly state. There are more people from the Azores in MA than there are in the Azores.

[MigSU]

You probably mean jeropiga/geropiga. It's actually grape must fortified with grape spirit. It's a typical drink for - and typically drunk with - chestnut season (autumn - so just after grape harvest season). As you say, it's nothing special, just an interesting cultural thing.

[JacobH]

Pico wines is available locally, generally at only real "neighborhood" liquor stores in heavily Portuguese enclaves. It's at a low price point. Next step up and it's port or madeira for most consumers.

I thought might be the case. Although this one is pretty pricy. It’s €47.68 in Portugual which would get you a decent Port, Madeira, or pretty much anything else!

You probably mean jeropiga/geropiga. It's actually grape must fortified with grape spirit. It's a typical drink for - and typically drunk with - chestnut season (autumn - so just after grape harvest season). As you say, it's nothing special, just an interesting cultural thing.

That sounds quite fun!

[winesecretary]

You get fortified red and white jerepigo from South Africa which must be a related drink. Some of it is matured for as much as 6 months... [actually, I've had some more than acceptable old vintage ones]

[MigSU]

Huh, interesting, had no idea. Yeah, it must have originated from the Portuguese jeropiga.

[JacobH]

Bar Douro’s wine box included a bottle the 2019 “Explicit” white by Jorge Rosa Santos & Filhos. This comes from Portalegre in the North East of Alentejo. It’s not an area I’ve ever visited but looks quite nice on the map: there’s a big national park on the Spanish border with some attractive-looking towns a villages. Being further North, more inland and at a higher altitude than the rest of the Alentejo has a big impact on the climate and apparently makes its wines quite different.

As usual, I am defeated by the DOC arrangements for this wine. The notes tell me that it is grown in the DOC Portalegre region but because it is vinified outside the DOC, it cannot be sold as such. I’ve seen this issue with Lisboa wines so it makes some sense. However, Wikipedia tells me that DOC Portalegre no longer exists and it is merely part of DOC Alentejo. If that is the case, I am not sure why there is a labeling issue. I also don’t know why this bottle is advertised as being VR Alentejano rather than DOC Alentejo. Perhaps the vinification is not in the DOC Alenetjo area, too?

Anyway, this is an attractive wine if you like bigger oaked whites: the vines an old field blend. Fermentation is in tanks. There is then maturation in oak barrels. On the nose it is attractively floral. In the mouth: moderate acidity, a splash of oak, some melons, maybe a touch of apricot or peach. Not my usual sort of thing but I can see it being attractive to some people.

It feels very different from the whites made elsewhere in the Alentejo so I can see why it would be a separate DOC. That makes its abolition even more of a mystery to me, especially when all those tiny regions around Lisboa still exist.

[MigSU]

Indeed, the Portalegre area, notably the São Mamede mountain range, make the wines quite different (for the better, in my opinion) when compared to the rest of the Alentejo wines. Well worth drinking.