blended port, different bottling years

[10Anos]

In this post I compared two different 10yots by the same shipper. One of them was bottled in 2006, the other in 2007. Because we're talking about blended ports I didn't think it really made a lot of difference...but is that really the case? Are there actually any noticeable differences between (e.g.) an Otima 10yot bottled in 2006 and one bottled in 2007?

[ac-fast]

I have a Optima 10 Years, bolted in 2005
And i`m not impressed - one of the worst 10 y i ever tasted

[Alex Bridgeman]

Personally, I would not expect to see much difference in the ports due to their bottle age difference.

However, the fact that they were bottled in different years would almost certainly mean that although the winemaker was trying to maintain a consistent style and flavour, he would have been forced to use different barrels from different vintages so you may well find a difference arising from the raw materials he had on hand.

Alex

[DRT]

the fact that they were bottled in different years would almost certainly mean that although the winemaker was trying to maintain a consistent style and flavour, he would have been forced to use different barrels from different vintages so you may well find a difference arising from the raw materials he had on hand.

I think this inevitably leads to a difference, even though the skill of the blender will ensure that the traditional house style is maintained from year to year.

[Axel P]

Interesting experiment. Im collecting aged Tawnies bottled some decades ago to see if it really is true that they loose their "spirit" over the years. Some years ago I had a 20y old Noval bottled in the 70s which was awesome.

So more later....

Axel

[DRT]

Im collecting aged Tawnies bottled some decades ago

Me too. I have Taylor 10 and 20 yr old and Fonseca 20 and 30 yr old all bottled in the early 70s.

Derek

[Andy Velebil]

It really depends on the house, how often they bottle, if the stocks used are all from their regular properties, if they buy older stocks from other producers, etc.

That said, I think it would be very difficult, if not impossible, to tell the difference between bottles that were bottled only one year apart (barring any major change in house style). It would probably be easier between bottles that were at least several years apart. But then how do you take into account bottle age in the older one??? As that will come into play and make a difference, however slight.

Producers make tawnys with an indication of age in a house style that remains constant from year to year. The whole idea is so people can buy the same type year after year and get the same tasting Port.

[DRT]

Producers make tawnys with an indication of age in a house style that remains constant from year to year. The whole idea is so people can buy the same type year after year and get the same tasting Port.

The same principle applies to VP - but quality and longevity vary enormously. The advantage that the belnders have with tawny ports is that the selection of the blend happens close to the point of consumption. VP blends are more speculative and, when they hit the mark, a greater acheivement (IMHO)

Derek

[Andy Velebil]

But a wine maker choses between many many casks of port to blend their house style with tawnys. With VP he doesn't have that ability as it is soley dependant on the years growing season.

That is not to say that VP's don't have a "style" as the grapes typically come from the same properties each time they make a VP. But that is because of terroir, not a conscious effor to make it as close to the same as the last tawny blended.

[DRT]

But a wine maker choses between many many casks of port to blend their house style with tawnys. With VP he doesn't have that ability as it is soley dependant on the years growing season.

That is not to say that VP's don't have a "style" as the grapes typically come from the same properties each time they make a VP. But that is because of terroir, not a conscious effor to make it as close to the same as the last tawny blended.

I think that is true of SQVPs and VPs from small producers but not the big boys. The Graham, Taylor and Fonseca blends will be well rehersed mixtures of wines that are known to maintain the house style and enure quality in most declared years. I don't think these major houses produce great VP by chance, it is their ability to produce the finest blend before bottling that makes them shine.

Derek

[Andy Velebil]

But they are still only dealing with grapes from one vintage, that are from the same properties year after year. So naturally they make a house style by default. But like I said, this is from terroir not by blending stocks from many different years, and in some cases from many different producers stocks that were bought by another producer.

With Colheita's you have many many different years to choose from. Its no major secret that some major producers buy older tawny stocks for thier aged tawnies. So they really have to work to get the same blend year after year. You really can't compare VP's style with aged tawnys, they are 2 totally different things.

[DRT]

You really can't compare VP's style with aged tawnys, they are 2 totally different things.

Agreed. But this debate will continue when I have had less Dow's Crusted 2002

Derek

[10Anos]

After reading all this I think I will have to do another 1:1 comparison in the near future. I'm quite sure I can find another Otima 10yot bottled in 2006 at the back of the shelf where I found the one I have now. One would expect a supermarket to use the FIFO system, but when it comes to stuff that's not so perishable they don't seem to care. They simply put the new bottles in front of what was left at the back of the shelf.

Maybe I can be patient enough and wait until the 2008 bottlings have reached the markets, then I could do a comparison between Otima 10yot bottled in 2006, 2007 and 2008...

[RonnieRoots]

In producing aged tawnies, you can really see the craftmanship of the master blender. Indeed, the aim is to produce a port that is similar in profile year in and year out. This means that the blend varies from year to year, depending on the available flavour profiles. If the blender does a really good job, you will not be able to tell the difference between several bottling years.

But there is another factor, and that's the behaviour of the port in the bottle. If you compare different bottling years, it will always mean that one of your bottles has been in bottle for at least a year longer than the other. Whether favourable or not, the flavour profile of the port will undoubtly change in bottle. Some prefer a tawny with a bit of bottle age, others feel that it should be as fresh as possible. It's up to you to find out what you like best.

[10Anos]

That's an interesting point of view. But I wonder if a filtered port that has already undergone a lot of oxidative aging in barrels during many many years will still age perceptibly in the bottle. Personally I don't think a few years of difference between bottles will be noticeable, but I don't know that for a fact.
What I do agree with is that the availability of stocks and the craftsmanship of the blender probably has a much larger influence on the end result.

I managed to find another Otima 10yot bottled in 2006. A nice feature of the Otima is the colourless bottle which enables comparing colours without opening bottles. I did and couldn't see any difference between the 2006- and 2007-bottling. That fact reinforced my belief that just one year of difference does very little to an aged tawny.

But is a bottling made in (e.g.) last year actually one year older than a bottling made in this year? What if the former was made at the end of last year and the latter at the beginning of this year? They might even be from the same stocks...
That's why I'm postponing a comparison until I find an Otima 10yot bottled in 2008, that one should logically be more than one year older...

[mosesbotbol]

I did notice a difference in Costco/Fonseca 10 year tawny from this year and last year's. I have a bottle from each round and should do a side-by-side.