uncle tom wrote:3) Will Sogrape take the UK market seriously? - The marketing of Ferreira, Offley & Sandeman VP's in the UK has been minimalist for a long time now.
I'm surprised they don't try to sell more Sandeman; it's such a well recognised brand in the UK that I would have thought they could grab a sizeable chunk of the Ruby market if as many supermarkets had stocked them as they do in France and elsewhere.
I'm surprised they don't try to sell more Sandeman
Agreed. I would have thought that for Ruby reserves, LBV and maybe a Tawny or two, the UK supermarkets would be easy to approach; especially if they were exclusive to one chain, so there were no price wars in prospect.
It's easy to presume that Sogrape are just too greedy, and would rather forego the business than compete with the Symingtons and TFP; but given that they sell a lot of Ruby to France, which is the most meagre market from a profit standpoint, that doesn't stack up..
Tom
I may be drunk, Miss, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly - W.S. Churchill
I apologize to alll regulars and readers because I truly do not want to hijack this thread, which is great to show the various 2007 VPs about to be launched in the marketplace.
However, someone needs to refute irresponsible claims, which offers little justice for those in the Port trade who don't post on Forums to defend themselves.
Tom wrote:
... is there really an agenda to kill the name, as was implied by the TFP last year.
Wow!
The Fladgate Partnership clearly has stated their reasons for selling off the Delaforce Ports. Again, it is the irresponsible use of "to kill the name, as was implied by the TFP last year" which is offensive in its arrogance and unnecessary negativity. There seems to be an agenda with these ad hominem claims against TFP ... this by no means being the first.
Just the facts m'aam:
1. Nearly a year ago to the day, TFP sold off Delaforce to Real Companhia Velha.
2. RCV is a Port company with very deep pockets.
3. TFP sold RCV the name, but will continue to produce Delaforce for RCV.
4. TFP can be far more profitable with a long term "supply contract" to RCV than carrying the stocks of Ports that they do not wish to sell (like Delaforce Colheita as just one example).
5. This deal made a lot of sense as Delaforce enjoys strong marketshare in Germany and also The Netherlands. RCV is very strong in Germany with a considerable sales emphasis there too, along with Brazil and Portugal, of course.
6. TFP clearly wanted to focus on their 3 core brands (Taylor/Fonseca/Croft) which had fantastic Quinta and vineyards, an integral part of TFP's ongong success ... Delaforce had neither a Quinta nor any vineyards to add to the mix. That is why Croft was such an invaluable part of the purchase of Croft/Delaforce when TFP bought them both together. Croft's Quinta da Roeda (as anyone who has ever been there can attest to) is one of the crown jewels in the Douro and treasured by TFP who once upon a time owned this jewel over a century ago and wanted it back in their crown.
One other point before I depart ...
Tom also wrote:
It's easy to presume that Sogrape are just too greedy, and would rather forego the business than compete with the Symingtons and TFP; but given that they sell a lot of Ruby to France, which is the most meagre market from a profit standpoint, that doesn't stack up..
Sogrape are (... is ... calling JDW for judgement ) too greedy you say?
Is this just more speculation or are you basing this on some facts? "Presume" ... well, you know what they say about assume. Please do share your version of the facts with us, rather than present just another off the cuff remark that besmirches a Port company's reputation, while in reality, having no basis in fact.
I do agree with you that France buys a lot of cheap Port. In terms of sheer volume of Port sold -- in France, not only are they the largest market in the world, but in 2008, they imported 28.1% of all Port sold globally. To put that in perspective they imported 2.7 million cases (out of 9.8 million cases of ALL Port sold in the world)! The UK on the other hand was a mere 10.2% with 996,000 cases, the USA a paltry 4.2% with only 412,000 cases imported, and Canada at half the USA with 2.1% which translates to 205,000 cases (actually a phenomenal achievement considering their population is 33 million, compared to 303 million people in the USA). There is a good reason there is so much focus on the Canadian market these days!
When we flip that and look only at the premium Port (pP) categories "the higher cost items" the numbers change. France clearly buys a ton of cheap Port. However, given the population base of 61 million people (just a tad more than the UK), France deserves less grief than the USA, as they still buy more pP than the USA, especially on a per capita basis, fwiw. The real news is the % of premium Port purchased by Canada!
The facts are:
France - 258,000 cases (of pP) or 9.6% of total Port sold to France
UK - 531,000 cases (of pP) or 53.4% of total Port sold to the UK
US - 239,000 cases (of pP) or 57.9% of total Port sold to the USA
Canada - 151,000 cases (of pP) or 73.5% of total Port sold to Canada
In terms of VALUE* of premium Ports as a % of total Port sales for each country, that is what is the most telling:
France = a rather low 18.2% (but they use a lot of cheap stuff to cook with too! ; )
UK = a solid 65%
US = a respectable 76%
Canada = a spectacular 84.2%
* if my % don't replicate the IVDP's, it's just that my math is better.
g-man wrote:It's not actually the users buying I thought, but the government buying and redistributing the sales to the individual buyer in canada.
Sure, but I doubt that the Canadian government is using Port as an investment option, so what the LCBO (and other agencies) buys is pretty much by definition representative of what the individual in Canada is ultimately consuming.
It may be the case that if the LCBO and other agencies imported more basic Port that Canadians would buy it up and drink it (or cook with it), thus lowering their premium Port percentage, but as things currently stand I'd think these numbers would be accurate.
g-man wrote:It's not actually the users buying I thought, but the government buying and redistributing the sales to the individual buyer in canada.
Sure, but I doubt that the Canadian government is using Port as an investment option, so what the LCBO (and other agencies) buys is pretty much by definition representative of what the individual in Canada is ultimately consuming.
It may be the case that if the LCBO and other agencies imported more basic Port that Canadians would buy it up and drink it (or cook with it), thus lowering their premium Port percentage, but as things currently stand I'd think these numbers would be accurate.
LCBO says it's 680$ for a Taylor 94 and a 1000$ for a 63 dows? ...
Also, the discontinued wines they have are all the cheap ports, so the natural assumption is that the cheap ones are going, but the VPs are sitting there.
And speaking about governments and representative of the individual, don't get me started on my senator.
Disclosure: Distributor of Quevedo wines and Quinta do Gomariz
g-man wrote:LCBO says it's 680$ for a Taylor 94 and a 1000$ for a 63 dows? ...
Also, the discontinued wines they have are all the cheap ports, so the natural assumption is that the cheap ones are going, but the VPs are sitting there.
Yeah but it's illegal for individuals to import alcohol into Canada, and they enforce that rather strictly, so if the cheap ports are selling and the VPs are not then over time the sales/import numbers for the LCBO would reflect those purchasing habits. The numbers indicate that it's the premium stuff that's selling. (Also note that we're not 100% clear on the definition of "premium" - does that include Ruby Reserves, for example?)
$680 for a T94 and $1000 for a D63 may look like highway robbery to you and I, but then again our prices in the US look the same to the guys in the UK. It's all relative, and those poor Canadians are a captive audience for the LCBO and other government agencies.
Does that mean that some of the wine would go to Royal Oporto VP?
Gman, simply put ... no. Only for Delaforce bottlings.
Also regarding Canada,
I think most of canada liquor importing is controlled by a govt entity like the LCBO.
Actually each Province in Canada has its own jurisdiction and buying force. Pricing nor SKU's from one Province have anything to do with the other.
It's not actually the users buying I thought, but the government buying and redistributing the sales to the individual buyer in canada.
Ultimately that is not all that dissimilar to the way it works in the USA, except instead of Big Brother doing the buying, we have Big Distributors (privatization) doing the work. Of course there is more freedom here, but many arcane regulations from state to state as well.
Having deep pockets and near limitless storage, I don't quite believe your Canadian numbers regarding individual port drinkers =)
Er, I did not make up these numbers. They came directly off the IVDP website. So unless they are mistaken (and I make no claims as to the accuracy of what the IVDP reports) they should be pretty much in line with reality. However, I did find mistakes in their calculations of some percentages in their tables and have alerted their peeps.
Roy Hersh wrote:
Er, I did not make up these numbers. They came directly off the IVDP website. So unless they are mistaken (and I make no claims as to the accuracy of what the IVDP reports) they should be pretty much in line with reality. However, I did find mistakes in their calculations of some percentages in their tables and have alerted their peeps.
intern doing the website might be consuming too much port during work =)
side note: all this unneccessary posting on my part is due to the anticipation of a certain TFP possible declaration in 2 days.
Disclosure: Distributor of Quevedo wines and Quinta do Gomariz
Duly noted and anticipated. However, as they have long ago announced trade tastings to show their lineup ... it is a bit anti-climactic. Nonetheless, it will be very good to hear that they are also declaring 2007 worthy of a major declaration and when they do ... it will kick something interesting into play.
I "declare" that I know absolutely nothing of what Roy is talking about.
My guess is that if there is a surprise in the offing they may declare an SQVP and a classic VP from one house, most likely to be Croft out of those three.
Any more guesses?
"The first duty of Port is to be red" Ernest H. Cockburn
You know, it occurs to me a downside to an industry (like port) declaring two years in a row would be that fresh juice could be compared apples-to-apples. In other words, only 1 yr of aging, vs 3 or 4 of the standard gap. This is advantageous if your product's quality is otherwise merely a guesstimate for 30 yrs and you want folks to buy all of your vintages, not pick one out of a pair.
JoshDrinksPort Port wine should perhaps be added -- A Trollope
It would still be apples to one-year-older-apples. I am speculating here but I would think that the first few years in the life of a VP would see the most accelerated changes so the difference between a wine bottled now to a wine bottled 1 year ago would be more marked (on a per year basis) than to a wine bottled 2, 3 or 4 years ago. Am I making this up? Yes. But it seems sensible to me.
"The first duty of Port is to be red" Ernest H. Cockburn
DRT wrote:I "declare" that I know absolutely nothing of what Roy is talking about.
My guess is that if there is a surprise in the offing they may declare an SQVP and a classic VP from one house, most likely to be Croft out of those three.
Any more guesses?
Croft, Quinta de Lara
Disclosure: Distributor of Quevedo wines and Quinta do Gomariz
"to kill the name, as was implied by the TFP last year" which is offensive in its arrogance and unnecessary negativity.
TFP stated publicly that they thought there were too many port brand names. In their own statement, they could hardly have been more negative about the future of Delaforce. The deal brokered with RCV left as many questions as it provided answers, and implied that this was perhaps a wind down operation for Delaforce, or the reduction of the brand to no more than a labelling exercise for specific markets.
Was that really the intention? That is the question.
Roy also said:
Sogrape are (... is ... calling JDW for judgement ) too greedy you say?
No, I didn't say that. Try reading what I write a little more carefully before coming out with all guns blazing.
Tom
I may be drunk, Miss, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly - W.S. Churchill
Taylor Opaque, purple black colour with a narrow violet rim. Characteristically stylish and racy, with a nose of dense blackcurrant and woodland fruit overlaid with discreet herbal nuances and scents of violet and rose petals. As usual the classic Taylor elegance and understatement conceal the wine’s energy and vigour. On the palate it displays the lean, sinewy and tightly knit tannins which are so much a feature of the Taylor style and the vibrant and clearly delineated fruit flavours and which are the hallmark of the 2007 vintage.
Fonseca Impenetrable inky black colour with purple highlights. As would be expected of Fonseca, the nose is dominated by a massively potent and concentrated fruitiness, packed with dense blackcurrant and blackberry aromas. Notes of coffee and exotic wood and hints of wild herbs and mint. The palate is rich and luscious, with thick velvety and wonderfully well integrated tannins enveloped in succulent jammy fruit and rich dark chocolate flavours.
Croft Deep purple black with narrow magenta rim. The heady and powerfully aromatic nose displays a characteristic abundance of rich plump fruit and the exoitc notes of eucalyptus and rock rose which are the hallmark of the Quinta da Roeda wines on which the blend is based. Juicy and luscious on the palate, with discreet and well fused tannins and a long generous finish.
Considering the discussion about the Niepoort 07, perhaps I shouldn't ask, but do phrases such as "elegance and understatement", "well integrated tannins" and "discreet and well fused tannins" suggest an early maturing vintage?
JacobH wrote:Considering the discussion about the Niepoort 07
Let's not go there again!
JacobH wrote:do phrases such as "elegance and understatement", "well integrated tannins" and "discreet and well fused tannins" suggest an early maturing vintage?
Only time will tell
"The first duty of Port is to be red" Ernest H. Cockburn
Considering the discussion about the Niepoort 07, perhaps I shouldn't ask, but do phrases such as "elegance and understatement", "well integrated tannins" and "discreet and well fused tannins" suggest an early maturing vintage?
Possibly. It could be that the Ports are still so intensely nervy at this young stage that their underlying structure is not as easy to read. But given those specific quotes you've chosen, you make an interesting point. Doing cask sample analysis is the toughest job for a winemaking team. I know that TFP does this with a full panel of players, as I spoke to them during the process. There are some producers that do this with the winemaker, master blender and Managing Director, period.
On a different note, i'd like to speculate on price for a moment.
We're in a recession; prices could start low. Historically, prices drop after a year or two. Next year is likely to reveal another strong vintage (but declaration is doubtful, also given history). Given all these opposites, what do folks think will happen this time? When is the ideal time to purchase, and in particular if we are going to do some mixed cases, when should we plan for that?
JoshDrinksPort Port wine should perhaps be added -- A Trollope
SushiNorth wrote:On a different note, i'd like to speculate on price for a moment.
We're in a recession; prices could start low. Historically, prices drop after a year or two. Next year is likely to reveal another strong vintage (but declaration is doubtful, also given history). Given all these opposites, what do folks think will happen this time? When is the ideal time to purchase, and in particular if we are going to do some mixed cases, when should we plan for that?
I suppose the key question is how low do you think "low" is? Whilst I can't imagine that 2007 will be much more than the 2003 release prices, if the major houses end up selling them at £30-5 a bottle, retail, the cost, will still be quite high for a produce which requires a further 15 years of storage at least. Especially as it's not too difficult to find 97s and 87s for a similar price. I also wonder how much the €/£ will affect prices. With the pound being 30% or so below the rate when the 2003 was released, the shippers will have to either increase their prices or decrease their profits just to keep in the same place.
SushiNorth wrote:On a different note, i'd like to speculate on price for a moment.
We're in a recession; prices could start low. Historically, prices drop after a year or two. Next year is likely to reveal another strong vintage (but declaration is doubtful, also given history). Given all these opposites, what do folks think will happen this time? When is the ideal time to purchase, and in particular if we are going to do some mixed cases, when should we plan for that?
I suppose the key question is how low do you think "low" is? Whilst I can't imagine that 2007 will be much more than the 2003 release prices, if the major houses end up selling them at £30-5 a bottle, retail, the cost, will still be quite high for a produce which requires a further 15 years of storage at least. Especially as it's not too difficult to find 97s and 87s for a similar price. I also wonder how much the €/£ will affect prices. With the pound being 30% or so below the rate when the 2003 was released, the shippers will have to either increase their prices or decrease their profits just to keep in the same place.
Hmm, well i was thinking more about it from the perspective of timing. Let's assume we will inevitably be buying some 2007, should it be bought on release? How were port prices handled during similar downturns (2000, late 80's/early 90's)?
JoshDrinksPort Port wine should perhaps be added -- A Trollope
This could be an interesting exercise. Suckling lists the release prices for all the ports he sampled for his book and somewhere on this site there is a list of the release prices of all the ports that we could uncover.
What we then need is someone with the time and resources to go through a whole series of back issues of decanter magazine to follow the auction prices of each particular port over time. Or use winesearcher, which I believe can also do this (but I have never tried).
Not having ever had the time to carry out this analysis, I shall probably go through my usual logical process to say:
Q - Do I want any of this vintage?
A(1) - Yes, to keep my Vesuvio vertical unbroken
A(2) - Yes, as I will be in my mid-sixties when these are mature and given my geneology would expect to still be around in the 2030s.
Q - Do I want to buy any on release?
A(1) - Yes, as it is useful to keep merchants happy with you and you known to them
A(2) - Yes, as it is nice to be able to open bottles which have been stored carefully from release
A(3) - Yes, as prices can sometimes be lower on release than afterwards (Taylor '94, for example)
So I will probably do as I usually do and order a few cases, to be stored in bond and will include at least one case of Vesuvio and then top up later as and when opportunities present themselves at an advantageous price.
But I would still be really interested if anyone wanted to carry out the analysis that I've suggested. I have the retail release prices for all the ports I have ever bought on release and might be able to get more if someone was to have a go at this.
Alex
Alex
Top Ports in 2024: Niepoort 1900 Colheita, b.1971. A near perfect Port.
2025: Quevedo 1972 Colheita, b.2024. Just as good as Niepoort 1900!
Here is the direct blog entry from James Suckling:
2007 Vintage Port Magic
Posted: 06:45 AM ET, May 01, 2009
I tasted 25 barrel samples of 2007 Vintage Port yesterday in a blind tasting at the Factory House in the center of old Oporto, Portugal. And I was very impressed. This is clearly a great vintage.
The young fortified Ports showed wonderfully well. I can’t remember a group of young Vintage Ports that were so delicious to taste when they were young. Usually, young Vintage Ports are a bit raw and crude, with mouth-puckering tannins and jammy fruit. The 2007s are not like that.
I loved their harmony and beauty. They have such precise and defined ripe fruit and silky tannins. They are complex and perfumed with power yet elegance. It shows that Port producers are taking much better care in their vineyards and cellars to make the best Vintage Port possible.
It’s hard to think about a vintage that would be comparable but maybe 1977 or 1955? I think that the grapegrowing season in 2007 was more like 1977, where it was sunny yet cool for most of the growing season and then hot and beautiful for September and October.
In any case, if you love Vintage Port, you are going to love the 2007s. I loved the balance so much in the young Vintage Ports that I wanted to drink not just taste many of them! Crazy stuff.
Just a couple dozen more samples to taste through today, and I will have more information to report back soon.
Portman wrote:Here is the direct blog entry from James Suckling:
In any case, if you love Vintage Port, you are going to love the 2007s. I loved the balance so much in the young Vintage Ports that I wanted to drink not just taste many of them! Crazy stuff.
I know exactly what he means - these are delicious to drink right now. But then that is being said by someone who enjoys drinking 2 year old port at Christmas every year.
Top Ports in 2024: Niepoort 1900 Colheita, b.1971. A near perfect Port.
2025: Quevedo 1972 Colheita, b.2024. Just as good as Niepoort 1900!
It's interesting to speculate, but impossible to exactly calculate; what proportion of newly released VP will be drunk in short order, and how much will be laid down.
The only available indicator is to look at CellarTracker and compare the quantities that people have in stock with the number of tasting notes. This is in no way a scientific analysis, and the nature of CT's clientele will tend to exaggerate the degree of retention; but the ratio is nevertheless pretty extreme. It cannot be assumed that everyone will post a note, but on the other hand, multiple notes are often posted from the tasting of a single bottle.
Why Taylor and Dow should have a similar number of notes, when Taylor has outsold Dow by five to one is a bit of a puzzle.
Overall, it does suggest that consumers are not at all sold on the idea of drinking VP young, and that anyone reviewing a new vintage should be more focused on the likely perfomance of the wines when mature, than on their ability to afford immediate gratification.
Tom
I may be drunk, Miss, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly - W.S. Churchill
These are interesting numbers but I'm not sure we can read much into it. As you know there are very few people in the world, probably 100 or less, who post tasting notes on the web on a regular basis. Some are more reliable than others (in terms of frequency of posting a TN each time they open a bottle) so even that cross-section of society does not give a true reflection of drinking habits.
My guess is that, in the new world at least, the majority of the VP that is shipped is bought by people who do not own collections of VP and simply want something for current drinking. These people do not have Cellartracker accounts and don't even think about writing a TN, never mind posting one on the net. This means that the shippers have a huge target market to aim at with VPs that can be popped and poured at 2-5 years old. I don't agree with it on principle but the fact is it is happening more and more each year. As the balance swings in that direction the building of VPs for long term ageing may come under threat. We may find that the "classic" shippers are the only ones who retain a focus on that with their classic blends whilst the others fullfil the demand for young-drinking wines to varying degrees. If that happens I think everybody wins
Derek
"The first duty of Port is to be red" Ernest H. Cockburn
Tom,
Not sure if you noticed it on CT, as it's way at the bottom in small font and can be "hidden" if accidentally clicked. But it lists the total community holdings and then total bottles consumed by the community. So for the 2003 Taylors VP there is
Total community holdings: 2,173 bottles
Total community consumed: 56 consumed
2003 Noval
Total community holdings: 1,079 bottles
Total community consumed: 45 consumed
2003 Vesuvio
Total community holdings: 458 bottles
Total community consumed: 4 consumed
Here is the 1977 Dow's numbers
Total community holdings: 1,113 bottles
Total community consumed: 138 consumed
Of course, not everyone in the world uses CT to keep track of their wines, but it at least gives some numbers to get a broad sense of how much is or isn't being drunk.
Andy V wrote:Tom,
Not sure if you noticed it on CT, as it's way at the bottom in small font and can be "hidden" if accidentally clicked. But it lists the total community holdings and then total bottles consumed by the community.
I hadn't noticed that feature, very interesting...
I'm not sure you can read much into the data for older vintages, simply because CellarTracker itself has not been around that long; but I do think the data goes a long way toward debunking the popular myth that the Americans are too philistine to appreciate the benefits of aging wines.
My assumption is that CellarTracker is very US-centric. Is their a breakdown of participant nationalities anywhere on that site?
Tom
I may be drunk, Miss, but in the morning I shall be sober and you will still be ugly - W.S. Churchill
DRT wrote:This means that the shippers have a huge target market to aim at with VPs that can be popped and poured at 2-5 years old. I don't agree with it on principle but the fact is it is happening more and more each year. As the balance swings in that direction the building of VPs for long term ageing may come under threat. We may find that the "classic" shippers are the only ones who retain a focus on that with their classic blends whilst the others fullfil the demand for young-drinking wines to varying degrees.
I think the jury is still out on whether making a vintage port that is approachable young automatically means that you have to leave out some of the elements that will allow it to mature and improve over a 20-30 year period. We have the opportunity to experience this for ourselves as we have tasted wines which were quite brutal in their early years (Noval '97) but also ports which were and still are just so drinkable even today (Vesuvio 1994). We won't know until 2015 whether the Vesuvio makes it to the traditional age of maturity, but we sure as heck will have a lot of fun finding out.
It will also be of huge interest to taste bottles like the Sandeman Vau against the regular Sandeman vintage with 20 years of bottle age.
From what I read, the 1963 ports were very approachable when first bottled and remained that way for a long time. Not many would argue that these have not lasted the course although many are now fading. If the immediately approachable wines which are being made today follow the course and life-span of the 1963s then I shall be perfectly happy.
That said, the 2007s are absolutely delicious right now. I shall buy some when they first get released but they will be for opening and drinking within a year or two. Stocks to lie down will probably be bought when the Pound gets stronger compared to the Euro.
Top Ports in 2024: Niepoort 1900 Colheita, b.1971. A near perfect Port.
2025: Quevedo 1972 Colheita, b.2024. Just as good as Niepoort 1900!
2007 Vintage Port Barrel Tasting: A Classic Year with Great Grip
Reviews of more than 50 young sweet wines from one of the best vintages in the past four decades
James Suckling
Posted: Wednesday, May 06, 2009
Great Vintage Port was made in 2007. I love the combination of power and finesse in these young blackstrap fortified wines.
I tasted more than 50 barrel samples of 2007 Vintage Ports in two separate blind tastings at the Factory House in Oporto, Portugal, and others at Port lodges and farms. What strikes me is how polished the tannins are. I have been tasting young Ports since the 1980 vintage, and I can't ever remember such fine yet dense and rich tannins.
I was spellbound by the top Vintage Ports of my tasting. They include: Taylor Fladgate Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha (97-100 points on Wine Spectator's 100-point scale), Graham (96-99) and Warre (95-98), followed by Dow, Quinta do Noval and Taylor Fladgate (all 94-97). These were the Ports that showed the best grip, the highest density and quality of ripe tannins, and opulent, sweet fruit.
Tasting young Vintage Port is not easy. In fact, I think it is the most difficult tasting in the wine business. It's not about finding the biggest, baddest wines out there. You can easily get seduced by the rich, sweet fruit of young Port. You have to look for what Port shippers call "grip." It refers to the tannin density, quality and finish that define a great Port. Check out my video.
Sure, black or purple color is very important. And clean and beautiful fruit is a must in a young Vintage Port. But without that intensity of tannins, a young Vintage Port is not going to age for decades ahead. I think Vintage Ports really only come into their own after about 20, 30 or 40 years of bottle age. The 1970s, 1966s and 1963s are just now right to drink.
The top 2007 Ports will certainly age incredibly well. And although they are very balanced and beautiful, it would be a waste to drink them with only 10 or 15 years of bottle age.
Port producers themselves believe they have a great year. As Johnny Graham, the owner of Churchill Port, describes the style of them, "They have a structure like an iron fist in a silk glove."
"When I taste 2007, I know that it is a great vintage," said Cristiano Van Zeller, whose family once owned Quinta do Noval and who now owns and makes Port and table wine at Quinta do Vale Dona Maria. "I think that there are three great vintages in the last four decades: 1970, 1994 and 2007."
I would add 1977. And the comparison to 2007 is very interesting. The top 1977 Vintage Ports are still very youthful and reserved in style. They are not big, fat juicy Ports they never have been but they impress you with their length, freshness and power. They are very subtle and refined, and I think the 2007s are the same. The 2007s also remind me of the 1955s, a vintage that was always balanced and refined. But I wasn't around when they were tasted from barrel.
I rate 2007 overall better than 1977 or 1955, although not quite at the level of 1994 (which I rated 99 points). I give it 98 points, the same as 2003. It is a much more refined and racy vintage than the big, blockbuster and ripe wines made in 2003, so it's a question of style.
"Nothing is better than 1994, but 2007 is very close," said Paul Symington, the chairman of the Symington Port group that makes such top names as Graham, Dow and Warre. It also owns and produces a top single-quinta (a "farm") Port called Quinta do Vesuvio, and that estate released a new reserve cuvée Vintage Port in 2007 called A Capela.
What made 2007 very special was the long and relatively cool grapegrowing season. It began with a poor flowering of the vines, so the grape crop was already reduced. June and July were very warm and sunny with occasional rain. Mildew was widespread, so prudent treatment in the vineyard was necessary. But August was sunny and cool instead of boiling hot. The grapes and tannins developed slowly and wonderfully. This set the style of the vintage. September and October were almost perfect. The grapes were harvested under clear skies.
2007 was a cool year so the wines made are more elegant, with fine tannins," said Adrian Bridge, the head of The Fladgate Partnership, which includes Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca, Croft and Skeffington. Taylor's single-quinta, old-vine 2007 Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha was the best wine of my tasting. "They are very harmonious with good acidity and balance. They do not appear to have the 'puppy fat' found in wines made in the hotter, riper years, nor some of the more developed characters that are found in such vintages. The quality of fruit is what stands out in the year, and this comes from the more even ripening that happens when you do not have excessive heat."
The question now is the strength of demand for 2007 Vintage Port, especially in such a down economy. The key markets are the United States and the United Kingdom, and most of the top names in Vintage Port hope to sell close to 1,000 cases of each brand in the two markets. Prices are expected to be comparable to 2003 Vintage Ports currently on the market. For instance, Graham should sell for about $90 a bottle while its sister houses, Dow and Warre, should sell their 2007s for about $76 and $72 a bottle, respectively.
TAYLOR FLADGATE Vintage Port Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha 2007 Score: 97-100
This is the Port of the vintage. Blackberry and cassis on the nose. Very perfumed and fruity. Some mineral and wet earth underneath. Full-bodied, medium sweet and very chewy, with fabulous tannins and a big mouthfeel. Racy and powerful. J.S.
GRAHAM Vintage Port 2007 Score: 96-99
Great nose of crushed blackberry, currant and grape skin. Intense. Full-bodied, dense and beautiful, with big, polished tannins and a long, long finish. Very sweet. This is a superb young vintage Port. Could match or better the fabulous 2000 Graham. J.S.
WARRE Vintage Port 2007 Score: 95-98
I love the nose on this, with blackberry, black licorice, and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, medium sweet and very, very dense. What seductive mouthfeel, with polished, round tannins that caress the palate. This may be better than the fantastic 1994. J.S.
DOW Vintage Port 2007 Score: 94-97
Intense aromas of blackberry, wet earth and grape follow through to a full body, with medium-to-light sweetness, very big tannins and a mouthfilling finish. Round and delicious already. Has the stuffing to age. Powerful. J.S.
QUINTA DO NOVAL Vintage Port 2007 Score: 94-97
Impressive aromas of crushed blackberry, mineral and dried flowers. Intense and deep. Full-bodied, very sweet and dense on the palate, with big, round tannins and a long finish. J.S.
TAYLOR FLADGATE Vintage Port 2007 Score: 94-97
A classic baby Vintage Port nose of blackberry, currant and a little bit of green lemon leaf. Full-bodied and medium sweet. There's a solid core of ripe fruit and powerful tannins, with grip. The real deal. J.S.
NIEPOORT Vintage Port 2007 Score: 93-96
Wonderful aromas of violet, blackberry and citrus fruits. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with layers of ripe, polished tannins. Very very long. Goes on and on. Very layered and well-crafted. J.S.
SANDEMAN Vintage Port 2007 Score: 93-96
Fantastic aromas of crushed blackberry and mineral. Amazing. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins that are mouthpuckering, with dark chocolate and intense, fresh dark fruits. Long and very pretty. The best in decades. J.S.
QUINTA DO VALE MEÃO Vintage Port 2007 Score: 93-96
Intense aromas of crËme de cassis, blackberry and wet earth. Full-bodied, with medium sweetness and a solid core of dense, polished tannins. It goes on for minutes. Structure with harmony. A very serious effort from this mighty wine estate. J.S.
QUINTA DO VESUVIO Vintage Port A Capela 2007 Score: 93-96
Beautiful aromas of violet and crushed raspberry, with some pepper, follow through to a full body, with a dense, rich palate, yet balanced and very refined. Medium sweet. Wonderfully polished. Powerful and long. This is a new tiny production, with an exce J.S.
CHURCHILL Vintage Port Quinta da Gricha 2007 Score: 92-95
I love the nose of blackberry and currant, with some wet earth too. Full-bodied and very thick and powerful, with leafy, stemmy crushed berry flavors. Lasts a very long time. J.S.
FONSECA Vintage Port 2007 Score: 92-95
Cooked raspberry, with hints of lemon peel and leaf. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with a beautiful density and a sweet fruity and tannic aftertaste. Balanced yet muscular. A little disappointing, but clearly outstanding. J.S.
GOULD CAMPBELL Vintage Port 2007 Score: 92-95
Dark in color. Very perfumed, with blackberry and flowers. Full-bodied and very dense, yet balanced and superrefined. Very sweet. Long and intense. There's wonderful harmony in this young Vintage Port. J.S.
NIEPOORT Vintage Port Pisca 2007 Score: 92-95
Cassis and blackberry galore on the nose, with mineral and wet earth. Full-bodied, with big, chewy tannins and a long finish. Polished and structured. J.S.
QUINTA DO VALE DONA MARIA Vintage Port 2007 Score: 92-95
Gorgeous aromas of blackberry, crushed raspberry and flowers. Full-bodied, with soft, polished tannins. Very sweet. Layered and very rich. Long finish. J.S.
QUINTA DO VESUVIO Vintage Port 2007 Score: 92-95
This is black in color. Sweet berry and plum on the nose, with wet earth, pepper and leaf notes. Minerally. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with a solid core of tannins and a dense palate. Long and chewy, with a core of sweet fruit. J.S.
POÇAS JUNIOR Vintage Port 2007 Score: 91-94
Dark in color, with lots of citrus fruit, blackberry, blueberry and mint. Full-bodied and very chunky, with big, powerful tannins and a long, fruity finish. This has grip. Super well done for this producer. J.S.
QUARLES HARRIS Vintage Port 2007 Score: 91-94
Black in color, with blackberry notes. Deep, dense aromas of crushed dark fruit, with hints of dark chocolate. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with big, chunky, chewy tannins, yet they are polished and beautiful. Excellent persistence. J.S.
QUINTA DO TEDO Vintage Port Savedra 2007 Score: 91-94
A fascinating nose of blackberry, grilled meat and lemon peel. Turns to black licorice. Full-bodied, rich and very powerful, with an excellent finish. Lasts for minutes. A small production Vintage Port, from some of the best terraced vineyards in the esta J.S.
COCKBURN Vintage Port Quinta dos Canais 2007 Score: 90-93
This is superfruity, with blackberry, citrus fruit and grape on the nose. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins, medium sweetness and a fresh and very, very clean finish. A focused and precise young fortified wine. From a top vineyard site. J.S.
FERREIRA Vintage Port 2007 Score: 90-93
Gorgeous blackberry, currant and violet on the nose. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with ultrapolished tannins and a long, lingering finish. A tight and very well-crafted young Vintage Port. J.S.
MARTINEZ Vintage Port 2007 Score: 90-93
Wonderful aromas of cassis and blackberry that turn to tar and spices, with citrus fruit. Full-bodied and lightly sweet, with big, polished tannins that caress the palate. Very pretty, yet structured. J.S.
QUINTA DO NOVAL Vintage Port Silval 2007 Score: 90-93
Violet and crushed berries on the nose, with currant. Full-bodied and lightly sweet, with a solid core of ripe fruit and chewy tannins that are polished and refined. J.S.
QUINTA DO TEDO Vintage Port 2007 Score: 90-93
Lovely aromas of milk chocolate and blackberry. Full-bodied, thick and very sweet and rich, with polished and round tannins. Wonderfully crafted. J.S.
BURMESTER Vintage Port 2007 Score: 89-92
Blackberry, currant and citrus fruit on the nose. Full-bodied, with a wonderful density of fruit and ultrafine tannins. Builds on your palate. Very good intensity. J.S.
CROFT Vintage Port 2007 Score: 89-92
Very pretty aromas of blackberry and dark chocolate, with hints of green leaf. Excellent nose. Medium- to full-bodied, with medium chewy tannins and a fresh finish. Medium sweet. Needs a little more grip on the palate and finish. A little disappointing. T J.S.
KOPKE Vintage Port 2007 Score: 89-92
Pure plum on the nose, with orange peel and dried flowers. Full-bodied, medium sweet and very chunky and rich, with firm tannins and lots of fruit. Just coming together now, but there's all the components for an outstanding Vintage Port. J.S.
OFFLEY Vintage Port Boa Vista 2007 Score: 89-92
Dark in color, with very pretty perfumes of blackberry and black currant. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with chewy tannins and a long finish. Well-crafted and beautiful. J.S.
QUINTA DA ROMANEIRA Vintage Port 2007 Score: 89-92
A soft, pretty Port, with plum and berry aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, very sweet and round, with a medium finish. J.S.
QUINTA DE LA ROSA Vintage Port 2007 Score: 89-92
Cooked fruit aromas, with blackberry and cherry. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins, light sweetness and a tannic finish. This has an interesting structure. Needs to come together. But all there. Should be outstanding. J.S.
SKEFFINGTON Vintage Port 2007 Score: 89-92
Black licorice on the nose, with mineral and blackberry. Full-bodied, with wonderful density and sweetness. Long and caressing, with ripe, polished tannins. Slightly one-dimensional now. J.S.
SMITH WOODHOUSE Vintage Port 2007 Score: 89-92
There's plenty of blueberry and raspberry in this young Vintage Port. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with chewy tannins and a medium finish. Chunky and a little awkward now. But the structure is very good to excellent. J.S.
BROADBENT Vintage Port 2007 Score: 88-91
Plum jam and berry aromas follow through to a full body, with medium sweetness and a soft, fruity finish. Tannins come up at the end. Shows potential. J.S.
CÃLEM Vintage Port 2007 Score: 88-91
Violet and berries on the nose, with licorice. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with a wonderful density of fruit and fine tannins. Subtle yet structured. J.S.
CHURCHILL Vintage Port 2007 Score: 88-91
Blackberry and mahogany aromas, with hints of green coffee bean and citrus fruit. Full-bodied and very sweet, with polished tannins and a long, flavorful finish. J.S.
QUINTA DO PORTAL Vintage Port 2007 Score: 88-91
Black in color, with good intensity to the notes lavender, blackberry, blueberry and citrus fruit. There's a slightly strange nose, with just a hint of lemongrass. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with polished tannins. Pretty and a little simple on the fini J.S.
RAMOS-PINTO Vintage Port 2007 Score: 88-91
Very, very ripe aromas, with black licorice, black currant and hints of dark chocolate. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with polished tannins. Needs a little more in the center palate to be outstanding. Wait and see. J.S.
REAL COMPANHIA VELHA Vintage Port 2007 Score: 88-91
Citrus fruits, blackberry and flowers on the nose. Full-bodied, with medium sweetness, polished tannins and a long finish. There's lots of length and finesse to this. J.S.
ROYAL OPORTO Vintage Port 2007 Score: 88-91
Black currant on the nose, with hints of flowers, follow through to a medium body, with refined tannins and a fresh, clean finish. Medium sweet. Focused and very pretty. J.S.
ROZÈS Vintage Port 2007 Score: 88-91
Black cherry and plum aromas follow through to a full body, with soft, sweet tannins and a good amount of grip. Very sweet. J.S.
DELAFORCE Vintage Port 2007 Score: 87-90
Black currant and berries on the nose. Medium-bodied and very sweet, with good fruit and a long finish. Shows well. Attractive. J.S.
QUINTA DE VENTOZELO Vintage Port 2007 Score: 87-90
Tar and crushed blackberry aromas follow through to a full-bodied, medium sweet and chewy, tannic palate. Medium finish. Builds on the palate. Could end up outstanding. J.S.
BARROS Vintage Port 2007 Score: 86-89
Stemmy and very fruity, almost jammy, with lots of raspberry. Full-bodied and very sweet, with round tannins and a clean, fruity finish. A little short, but clean and attractive. J.S.
COCKBURN Vintage Port 2007 Score: 86-89
Some crushed berry and nut aromas, with a medium-to-full body, soft tannins and a simple finish. Disappointing. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. J.S.
QUINTA DO CRASTO Vintage Port 2007 Score: 86-89
Floral aromas, with citrus fruits and blueberry. Medium-bodied and medium sweet, with a good density of tannins and a medium finish. For early drinking. A little disappointing. J.S.
QUINTA DO INFANTADO Vintage Port 2007 Score: 86-89
Blackberry and cherry aromas follow through to a medium- to full-bodied palate, with fine tannins. There's medium sweetness and a simple finish. J.S.
QUINTA DE RORIZ Vintage Port 2007 Score: 86-89
Slightly spirity, with cooked plum fruit aromas. Medium- to full-bodied, with raisin and spice fruit. Not much to this. How disappointing. J.S.
WINE & SOUL Vintage Port Pintas 2007 Score: 86-89
Blackberry, cherry and licorice aromas follow through to a medium body, with medium sweetness, plum and light stemmy undertones. J.S.
QUINTA DO PASSADOURO Vintage Port 2007 Score: 85-88
Sweet, soft and simple, with pretty ripe plum and cherry fruit character, a full body and round tannins. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. J.S.
RAMOS-PINTO Vintage Port Quinta da Ervamoira 2007 Score: 84-87
Light raisin and dark berries on the nose, with plum. Medium-bodied, with light sweetness, soft tannins and a medium finish. J.S.
QUINTA DE SANTA BÀRBARA Vintage Port 2007 Score: 84-87
Shows blackberry and black currant on the nose. Medium-bodied, with light sweetness, soft tannins and a simple finish. For early drinking. J.S.
Thanks for posting that; it's good to see an overview of the whole vintage. The mind boggles at tasting that many cask samples, though
What I missed on reading through the first time was that he rates both Churcill and Cockburn's SQVPs over their VPs. Perhaps this might be where the bargins of 2007 might be had?
FONSECA Vintage Port 2007 Score: 92-95
Cooked raspberry, with hints of lemon peel and leaf. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with a beautiful density and a sweet fruity and tannic aftertaste. Balanced yet muscular. A little disappointing, but clearly outstanding. J.S.
How do you get "A little disappointing" and "Clearly outstanding" all in one sentance??? Quite interesting I must say.
FONSECA Vintage Port 2007 Score: 92-95
Cooked raspberry, with hints of lemon peel and leaf. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with a beautiful density and a sweet fruity and tannic aftertaste. Balanced yet muscular. A little disappointing, but clearly outstanding. J.S.
How do you get "A little disappointing" and "Clearly outstanding" all in one sentance??? Quite interesting I must say.
The range 92-95 also seems to be inconsistent with the description "outstanding"
"The first duty of Port is to be red" Ernest H. Cockburn
regulars and readers because I truly do not want to hijack this thread, which is great to show the various 2007 VPs about to be launched in the marketplace.
) too greedy you say? 
