2009 Vintage Port Declarations and Predictions

[JacobH]

As we approach the end of April, I think it might be a good time to start thinking about 2009 vintage port declarations. We won't hear from the Taylor Fladgate partnership until the week after next and the Symingtons are yet to formally declare what they intend to ship, but details of other shippers seem to be dripping out.

From what I've seen it doesn't look like 2009 will be a full declaration, although I get the impression that there will be more classic vintage blends produced than 2008. We already know that Niepoort is producing both its vintage Ports from 2009 and that there will also be a 2009 Pintas whilst Churchill is going for a SQVP Quinta da Gricha. With the 2010 vintage looking patchy, that might increase the likelihood of full-blend vintage ports from other shippers, although I do think that those who managed to get the right grapes in at the right time in 2010 will probably be able to make some nice wines.

Of course these threads are only fun if we put our necks on the line and prepare to make some wide speculations about what will happen, so: my prediction is that 2009 will be another 2005. Mostly SQVPs but quite a few major shippers (and not just those, like Noval, who are known for declaring in minor years) will produce a classic blend.

[g-man]

I'd say with better wine making techniques and what appears to be warmer weather, we could potentially see a every year being an sqvp and vps being declared more often then 3-4 times in a decade (much like vesuvio)

[JacobH]

Well, the ideal situation would be if economics meant the shippers stuck to 3-time-a-decade but produced SQVP of VP quality in the intermediate years! Indeed, I think that is already happening to some extent: every time I do a big vertical tasting, I am always struck by the quality of wines from minor years after 1994 and, again, after 2003.

[jdaw1]

Well, the ideal situation would be if economics meant the shippers stuck to 3-time-a-decade but produced SQVP of VP quality in the intermediate years! Indeed, I think that is already happening to some extent: every time I do a big vertical tasting, I am always struck by the quality of wines from minor years after 1994 and, again, after 2003.

But in the FG vertical, many of the pre-’94 years were also excellent.

[uncle tom]

Taylor, VVV, Fonseca & Croft declared.

Commenting on the declaration, Taylor’s CEO Adrian Bridge said: ‘I am delighted to announce our decision to release a declared vintage from 2009. The year has produced wines of massive scale, not unlike the iconic vintage ports of the early twentieth century. They are wines built to last.’

The last decade has been unusually prolific in great years for classic vintage port. The Taylor 2009 follows a series of three outstanding vintages, 2000, 2003 and 2007. Adrian Bridge remarked: ‘The 2009 is the fourth declaration in a decade. In over three centuries of Taylor’s history, a sequence of great vintages like this has been very rare.’ He added, ‘It is also remarkable that these four years have produced wines so different from one another but all unmistakably Taylor in style’.

2009 will be remembered in the Douro Valley for its dry summer, low production and very concentrated juice. Head winemaker David Guimaraens commented: ‘The low yields produced wines with enormous density of colour and excellent tannic grip. However they also display good acidity and wonderfully complex fruit.'

The Taylor 2009 blend is based on the wines of Quinta de Vargellas and Quinta de Terra Feita. Since 2000, the firm’s third property, Quinta do Junco, has also made a small contribution to the blend and has done so again in 2009. Quantities are smaller than those of the three preceding classic vintages.

Taylor’s will also bottle a small amount of Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha 2009 Vintage Port. According to Adrian Bridge: ‘We will be making a very limited release of Vargellas Vinha Velha 2009 which will be good news for vintage port enthusiasts and collectors of rare wines.’ The rare Vinha Velha Vintage Ports are made in very small quantities from a selection of grapes from the very oldest vines at Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas and seldom represent more than 2% of the production of the property.

Tom

[jdaw1]

23 April 2011: Fonseca is pleased to announce that it has declared the 2009 vintage.

Fonseca’s CEO, Adrian Bridge, commented, ‘I am delighted to announce that Fonseca will bottle a declared vintage port from 2009. It is very unusual to have a string of four great vintages in a decade. This is a reminder that, although we can tip the balance in our favour through investment in our vineyards, ultimately it is nature which is in control.’

The reduced yields, resulting from low vine productivity and the very dry summer, resulted in dense and concentrated musts with high levels of tannin, sugar and colour. Due to the low yields at the harvest, the quantities of Fonseca 2009 are smaller than those of the preceding three declared vintages.

Fonseca’s head winemaker David Guimaraens remarked: ‘The’09s have higher colour intensity and tannin levels than we have seen for the last two decades. They also have exceptional fruit quality as can be seen from the wonderfully opulent nose of the Fonseca.’

Blender Mario Araújo, who celebrates his 50th year working in the Fonseca tasting room, noted: ‘This is one of the most impressive young vintage ports that I can remember. In many ways it reminds me of the 1970 with its firm tannins and powerful fruit.’

According to house tradition, the announcement is made in the morning of St. George's Day, 23rd April.

Also a PDF with more detail.

[DRT]

Excellent news! Perhaps this is shaping up for a true split declaration with 2010? - which will give us fun debates to have for decades to come

[JacobH]

Of course these threads are only fun if we put our necks on the line and prepare to make some wide speculations about what will happen, so: my prediction is that 2009 will be another 2005. Mostly SQVPs but quite a few major shippers (and not just those, like Noval, who are known for declaring in minor years) will produce a classic blend.

**Feels fairly smug about the accuracy of my prediction, and awards myself a bottle of Fonseca 2009**

But in the FG vertical, many of the pre-’94 years were also excellent.

That’s true. But those are blended wines from what many regard as the finest Port house; one could arguable expect them to be good. What I don’t think existed 20 years ago were the fine wines in secondary years from much smaller shippers and independent quintas: Ports such as the 2005 Portal; 2004 Romaneira and 2003 Vale Dona Maria come to mind but there are many others. If we go back to, say, 1982 or 1978, there are many fine wines but many that disappoint and I think that those made more recently will age better.

[jdaw1]

What I don’t think existed 20 years ago were the fine wines in secondary years from much smaller shippers and independent quintas

In the late 1980s the rules changed, permitting shipping from the Douro rather than from Gaia, which has hugely increased the number of ‟smaller shippers and independent quintas”.

[uncle tom]

Perhaps this is shaping up for a true split declaration with 2010?

Possibly. 2010 ticked most of the basic boxes for a declaration, but the reportage speaks of a 'difficult' year. There's not much enthusiasm for the vintage.

At this point, 2009 is looking more like a '58 or '72 - an intermediate year; although the quality I've seen so far is exceptional.

Drank the Niepoort '09 this afternoon at the CP - was voted the WOTA (wine of the afternoon..)

Tom

[jdaw1]

At this point, 2009 is looking more like a '58 or '72 - an intermediate year; although the quality I've seen so far is exceptional.

This is a sentence of two halves. How can ‟intermediate” and ‟exceptional” best be reconciled?

[Andy Velebil]

At this point, 2009 is looking more like a '58 or '72 - an intermediate year; although the quality I've seen so far is exceptional.

This is a sentence of two halves. How can ‟intermediate” and ‟exceptional” best be reconciled?

1972 an intermediate year? Stop kidding around.

[JacobH]

What I don’t think existed 20 years ago were the fine wines in secondary years from much smaller shippers and independent quintas

In the late 1980s the rules changed, permitting shipping from the Douro rather than from Gaia, which has hugely increased the number of ‟smaller shippers and independent quintas”.

Yes, indeed: I was including regulatory changes in addition to the technological changes which have improved the overall quality of Port produced. I think there is a strong argument that it benefited the larger shippers, too, since it allowed them to build more modern premises in the Douro for their winemaking (e.g. at Noval or Napoles). Of course, there were still many small shippers before the 1990s, which, like Morgan or Delaforce, no longer exist in their traditional form, too...

[uncle tom]

How can ‟intermediate” and ‟exceptional” best be reconciled?

I define a split declaration as being one where some of the classic shippers declared one year, and others chose an adjacent year.

I define an intermediate year as being one where a number of the classic shippers declared, but several others declined to declare either that year or an adjacent year. It does not imply lower quality, only that due to economic or microclimatic considerations, the declaration was not universal.

1972 an intermediate year? Stop kidding around.

Dow, Sandeman and Offley declared blends in '72 - enough to qualify it as an intermediate year, IMO.

Tom

[jdaw1]

Ahhh. I thought ‟intermediate” referred to quality rather than number. It might be that Andy had thought likewise.

[g-man]

Maintain the running list:

Taylor 2009
Taylor VVV 2009
Fonseca 2009
Croft 2009
Skeffington 2009
Niepoort 2009
Warres 2009
Vesuvio 2009
Quinta Vale D Maria 2009
Dow Senhora de Riberia 2009
Dow Bonfim 2009
Grahams Malvedos 2009
*Cockburn Canais 2009 - not available

[ajfeather]

Maintain the running list:

Taylor 2009
Taylor VVV 2009
Fonseca 2009
Croft 2009
Skeffington 2009
Niepoort 2009
Quevedo 2009
Warres 2009
Vesuvio 2009
Dow Senhora de Riberia 2009

and
Quinta Vale D Maria 2009

[Alex Bridgeman]

I have been told that there will not be 2009 vintage ports from Sandeman, Offley or Ferreira.

[uncle tom]

I would be amazed if there was not a 2009 Malvedos - a cask sample was stupendous..

..has this been confirmed?

Tom

[jdaw1]

I would be amazed if there was not a 2009 Malvedos - a cask sample was stupendous..

..has this been confirmed?

Yes.

[DRT]

Maintain the running list:

Taylor 2009
Taylor VVV 2009
Fonseca 2009
Croft 2009
Skeffington 2009
Niepoort 2009
Quevedo 2009
Warres 2009
Vesuvio 2009
Dow Senhora de Riberia 2009

Oscar told us last night there will be no Quevedo 2009.

Christian Seely told me today that Noval and Romaneira will not be producing any 2009 VPs.

[DRT]

I would be amazed if there was not a 2009 Malvedos - a cask sample was stupendous..

..has this been confirmed?

Yes.

The Symington's are also producing Dow Bomfim and Cockburn Canais from 2009.

[JacobH]

Yes.

The Symington's are also producing Dow Bomfim and Cockburn Canais from 2009.

Although we won’t get to see either of the Malvedos or Bomfim until about 2020 at the earliest

I thought the Quinta dos Canais was an extremely-limited library-only production. Is it going to be available anywhere?

[DRT]

I thought the Quinta dos Canais was an extremely-limited library-only production. Is it going to be available anywhere?

Yes, library stock only, which presumably means it will remain in the gift of the Symingtons as to where and when it will be served. I do not think any are to be sold.

[uncle tom]

There are always dozens of small library stock bottlings..

..if there are no plans to market it, then perhaps it shouldn't be on our little list...!

Tom

[DRT]

There are always dozens of small library stock bottlings..

..if there are no plans to market it, then perhaps it shouldn't be on our little list...!

Tom

I think it has been approved by the IVDP, which makes it different to the family reserve wines I think you are referring to, Tom. I might be wrong, but I think the term "Declaration" has no legal meaning and the status that the term now has is probably as a result of it being one of those ancient traditions that have been established over the past 30 to 40 years

[JacobH]

I think it has been approved by the IVDP, which makes it different to the family reserve wines I think you are referring to, Tom.

I wonder why they have done that, unless they are planning to sell some?

[DRT]

I think it has been approved by the IVDP, which makes it different to the family reserve wines I think you are referring to, Tom.

I wonder why they have done that, unless they are planning to sell some?

Perhaps because without approval it isn't vintage port?

[JacobH]

I think it has been approved by the IVDP, which makes it different to the family reserve wines I think you are referring to, Tom.

I wonder why they have done that, unless they are planning to sell some?

Perhaps because without approval it isn't vintage port?

I’m still not sure why that matters unless they are planning on selling it...As another suggestion, if they have it approved as Vintage Port by the IVDP, does that help their reserve stock levels requirements, even if they are not planning on selling it?

[DRT]

In an email exchange this evening...

Dear Derek,

We are not Declaring the 2009 Vintage Port, apart from a small quantity of Warre's 2009 Vintage Port. 500 cases of a special commemorative Warre have been bottled (each bottle numbered) to commemorate the liberation of Oporto in May 1809 by the Anglo-Portuguese army under the Duke of Wellington. William Warre, born in Oporto, fought in this campaign. He tried to hold a bridge over the Cavado river with a small band of local militia. He expected to meet stragglers from the French army who had been pushed out of Oporto. But Warre ended up facing Soult's entire army, who had Wellington closing fast on his tail. This wine is a dedication to his singular bravery at this action and the awards he won at the time. We will be contributing £4.00 on every bottle sold (£48.00 per case of 12) to Help the Heroes on all bottles sold in the UK and the equivalent on Portugal's sales to the Liga dos Combatentes. I expect that only about 360 cases will be available for the UK as we have to keep some for other markets.

The Warre's 2009 comes primarily from Cavadinha which is a higher vineyard than the river-side Quintas, so performed particularly well in this very dry year. We have also used some wine from the Warre's Retiro vineyard in the Rio Torto and from the Warre's Telhada Quinta near Vale de Meao, beyond Vesuvio. It is a truly remarkable wine and a landmark for Warre; deep and structured but with elegance and length and fantastically perfumed.

We are offering a small quantity of Quinta do Vesuvio 2009, 600 cases and 400 cases of Dow's Quinta da Senhora de Ribeira 2009, as we do in every good year. In both cases these wines come from the higher and more protected vineyards on these estates (Ribeira faces south, but the top vineyard, by the old water tank, faces north-east and is protected from the south and the afternoon sun) that suffered less from the dry weather and the hot summer. The Vesuvio has the classic velvet balance that always characterises this Quinta, with a steely backbone on the finish. The Ribeira is more austere, like all Dow, but has a lovely bitter-chocolate mid-palate.

We are also bottling Malvedos, Bomfim and Canais 2009, but these wines are being cellared now and will only be offered when they have gained some bottle-age.

2009 was a difficult year in our vineyards. Please see our harvest report written in October 2009 (available on our website). We had 31% less rain than average in the agricultural year, this after two dry years. We then had a warm August and early September, resulting in high graduations in many cases (often graduations increased in the lagares a few hours after crushing as some of the very dry grapes released their sugars) coupled in many cases with still green pips and stalks. The vines were finding it very difficult to ripen their fruit normally due to the lack of humidity. But the Douro is a region of micro-climates unlike virtually any other region on earth, so even in a challenging year like 2009, some small gems can be made.

The 2009's that we are offering (as above) are truly in very short supply, they will be true collectors Ports as they will never again become available. What is offered now is it. No more. So if anybody is interested they had better get onto their usual source of supply....!

Best wishes,

Paul

Joint Managing Director
Symington Family Estates
http://www.symington.com
Member of Primum Familiae Vini
http://www.pfv.org

Thanks, Paul.

Could you please clarify something regarding the Canais 09?

I was lucky enough to be given the opportunity to taste it at The Big Fortified Tasting last month when I visited Henry and Tim on your stand. My recollection is that they told me that the Canais was such a small quantity that it would be "library stock only", with no intention for it to be released now or in the future. They did mention that Bomfim and Malvedos would be released in a decade or so and the Warre, Vesuvio and Dow Reibera being released imminently.

Have I got the story wrong on the Canais?

Regards

Derek

Hi Derek,

You have it right, the Canais 2009 is library stock. It will be used for tastings and so that we can make internal evaluations for the Quinta's wines over the years.

So the quantity is very small and it will never be released commercially.

Best,

Paul

[JacobH]

So the quantity is very small and it will never be released commercially.

It was one of the best...

[RonnieRoots]

As another suggestion, if they have it approved as Vintage Port by the IVDP, does that help their reserve stock levels requirements, even if they are not planning on selling it?

No, for the law of thirds it doesn't matter what sort of port your reserve is, all that matters is that it's port. I've seen one particular example where there were a number of tanks filled with the worst possible port, just to serve as reserve stock, while that producer only sells port in the 'premium' category.

[JacobH]

No, for the law of thirds it doesn't matter what sort of port your reserve is, all that matters is that it's port. I've seen one particular example where there were a number of tanks filled with the worst possible port, just to serve as reserve stock, while that producer only sells port in the 'premium' category.

But does the reserve stock still have to be certified by the IVDP? If so, it would be worth getting all library stocks certified so that they contribute to the third and reduce the number of tanks of rubbish kept to conform to the rule.

[DRT]

No, for the law of thirds it doesn't matter what sort of port your reserve is, all that matters is that it's port. I've seen one particular example where there were a number of tanks filled with the worst possible port, just to serve as reserve stock, while that producer only sells port in the 'premium' category.

But does the reserve stock still have to be certified by the IVDP? If so, it would be worth getting all library stocks certified so that they contribute to the third and reduce the number of tanks of rubbish kept to conform to the rule.

Is it not only Special Category styles that require approval?

[JacobH]

Is it not only Special Category styles that require approval?

True. This makes me realise, I have absolutely no idea how the Rule of Thirds works in practice and what sorts of Port are required to be held in reserve. I think I should stop pursuing this theory!

[uncle tom]

My understanding of the law of thirds has always been that the stock held for compliance can be just about anything, and that age, type and approval status are irrelevant.

The original (and I presume, enduring) objective of the law, was to stop standard rubies being shipped out in an excessively young and raw state.

Unless I've got it wrong, you could ship out every last bottle of premium port in your inventory; provided you have twice the volume of standard ports retained in tanks somewhere.

Tom

[DRT]

Unless I've got it wrong, you could ship out every last bottle of premium port in your inventory; provided you have twice the volume of standard ports retained in tanks somewhere.

I think that is exactly right.

[RonnieRoots]

Unless I've got it wrong, you could ship out every last bottle of premium port in your inventory; provided you have twice the volume of standard ports retained in tanks somewhere.

I think that is exactly right.

And it is exactly what I said earlier.

[JacobH]

Having seen some more details about declarations (http://www.infoportwine.com lists a full declaration for Ramos Pinto; SQVP for Kopke, Burmester and Churchill; and no Vintage Port for Quevedo, Sandeman, Ferreira, Offley and Barros) 2009 is starting to look like quite an unusual year. I very much doubt that most of the shippers who have not produced anything in 2009 will fully or partially declare 2010, so a split declaration seems unlikely.

In terms of who declared and what was produced, 2009 looks much more like another 1982 than a 1972, though if 2010 isn’t widely declared, I can’t easily think of another similar year.

[Alex M]

Did anybody purchase any of the 2009 VP? I went for 6xTaylors.

[Alex Bridgeman]

I have also bought 6 Taylors, but will also buy some more over the next 12 months.

[Roy Hersh]

In the late 1980s the rules changed, permitting shipping from the Douro rather than from Gaia, which has hugely increased the number of ‟smaller shippers and independent quintas”.

Julian, actually the regulations changed in 1986, not the late 1980's that allowed for the producers to bottle, promote and ship Ports from up in the Douro rather than just in Gaia. Other dynamics that should not be overlooked, with the smaller shippers and SQ producers along with the IVP regulations of 1986 ... was arguably:

a. ongoing consolidation and procurement of prominent Port firms from 1989-2005.
b. beginnings of the Douro wine explosion which is the reason that the majority of new/small SQ's went from just being growers to shippers. The amount of Port produced has not nearly increased as much as the volume of Douro wine has in that same period of time. Unless the financial viability of the Douro wines made it feasible to make Port, the Beneficio rights these producers held, would have continued to be sold under the radar. In many cases, producing Douro wines was like a poison pill that would have made arbitrage far more difficult and expensive for the large firms. This is something not often talked about and is denied by some, altogether.

[Roy Hersh]

As to the Lei de Terco (Law of Thirds), Derek and others here who are subscribers to a newsletter have read AQFTPT which has specifically detailed this in the past.

[Axel P]

So, my running list goes like this:

Alves da Souza
Crasto
Croft
Cockburn Canais
Dow SdR
Dow Bomfim
Fonseca
Graham Malvedos
La Rosa
Niepoort
Niepoort Bioma
Nova
Passadouro
Pintas
No Quevedo
Skeffington
Taylor
Taylor VVV
Vale Dona Maria
Vesuvio
Warre

Am I missing anything?

Axel

[uncle tom]

I thought Oscar was passing on 2009 - has he changed his mind?

Tom

[Axel P]

You are correct, Tom, I just received 08 samples.

Axel

[Alex Bridgeman]

I don't have access to my notes, but is there a Duorum vintage port from 2009?

[Axel P]

Yes, there is, Alex. New List:

Alves da Souza
Burmester Quinta do Arnozelo
Crasto
Croft
Cockburn Canais
Delaforce
Duorum
Dow SdR
Dow Bomfim
Fonseca
Graham Malvedos
Kopke Quinta Sao Luiz
Krohn
Krohn Retiro Novo
La Rosa
Niepoort
Niepoort Bioma
Nova
Passadouro
Pintas
Ramos Pinto Ervamoira
Rozes
Seara d'Ordens
Skeffington
Taylor
Taylor VVV
Vale Dona Maria
Vesuvio
Vista Allegre
Warre

[SushiNorth]

In an email exchange this evening...

Dear Derek,
We are also bottling Malvedos, Bomfim and Canais 2009, but these wines are being cellared now and will only be offered when they have gained some bottle-age.

Interestingly, I've been seeing Malvedos on the market recently.

[Andy Velebil]

In an email exchange this evening...

Dear Derek,
We are also bottling Malvedos, Bomfim and Canais 2009, but these wines are being cellared now and will only be offered when they have gained some bottle-age.

Interestingly, I've been seeing Malvedos on the market recently.

The 2009 Malvedos was released in the USA only since no Warre's was sent to the States. The distributors here raised a bit of a ruckus about not getting any Warre's so they sent the Malvedos as a stand-in, a mighty fine stand-in I may add.