Wine Journalism: A Rich Seam of Unmined Moaning

[LGTrotter]

...a copy of Decanter, plus wine awards bonus thing.

I have read the wine awards thing. I thought it was rubbish. I haven't got it to hand to be able to recount examples of what was rubbish, but I recall being bemused by the scarcity of wines assessed in some (many?) categories. And when you read the part about how they undertake the award process, it broadly seems to be: some people apply in a category, we taste, we make awards. So it seems to me that this is not really an attempt to find and assess what might be the outstanding wines in a category, but a half hearted process which any self-promoting producer can probably take advantage of.

I buy these magazines very sporadically and often by weight, so this seemed like a winner. Copies of Decanter I digest slowly over some months occasionally longer, so I have yet to find if it is rubbish or not. But so much wine journalism is awful; the old argument was that the people who knew about wine couldn't write and the journalists who could write didn't know about wine. What I can say is that wine writing seems to be done in the same factory that turns out airline mags. Which is terrible when I compare it to Waugh or even Mcinerney. I would make an exception for Jancis, she's great.

The point about self-promotion rather than quality is getting increasingly hard to ignore. And I suppose that wines wishing to be considered probably have to pay some nominal administration fee (read heavy irony here please).

But I was cheered to see Richard Mayson as the fortified judge, then rolled my eyes at the winner, a £210 1988 Bual, quite astonishingly over priced.

This probably needs a thread entitled 'wine journalism', thank you for uncovering this rich seam of unmined moaning. At least it's not cricket.

[DRT]

This probably needs a thread entitled 'wine journalism'

Done.

[LGTrotter]

Thank you.

[DRT]

The stage is yours…

[jdaw1]

I buy these magazines very sporadically and often by weight

You buy reading material by weight and then discover that the quality is unsatisfactory. That’s fine. But then why do you act surprised?

[LGTrotter]

I buy these magazines very sporadically and often by weight

You buy reading material by weight and then discover that the quality is unsatisfactory. That’s fine. But then why do you act surprised?

As you are doubtless aware I do this partly for comic effect, like all good jokes there is a kernel of truth in it. I like a lot to read, I tend to nibble away at these magazines and I thought that this particular edition of Decanter would last a long time. On reflection I think that I nibble at them because they are indigestible. The wine awards section is almost unreadable, perhaps I am old fashioned but I have little interest in the wines of Croatia presented in a repetitive format. Quite soulless. And so large.

[LGTrotter]

This week’s Wine Folly: What Your Favorite Wine Says About You.


Cabernet Sauvignon ⇒ “You like music with real instruments played by real musicians. You live by the motto: “No pain, no gain.” No one would dare use the word ‘subtle’ to describe your personality. Cabernet Sauvignon seems fitting.”

In which case, what does Port say?

The repetitive nature of wine journalism is one of the many problems it presents. To begin with lists. Why the *?@! do the writers think that lists are an inherently interesting way to present writing? They are the last word in lazy journalism. It is saying that a writer cannot even be bothered to put their writing into some coherent whole. So they just have written down bullet points and this gives the illusion of being punchy, but actually it is just lazy, or stupid, or some combination of the two. The other thing that annoys me about the above is that it has that sense of false bonne homie which infects so much journalism. In fact I think the main thing that annoys me about wine journalism is the journalists. This particular article was stamped out on the machine that does the problem page and horoscopes. God it's awful.

[flash_uk]

To begin with lists.

Completely agree that lists have reduced journalism to the lowest level of quality. Open any Saturday or Sunday paper and turn to the supplement sections for examples of this. The travel section is a serial offender. Top 50 places to go in Turkey, Top 10 romantic bolt holes in Siberia, Top 20 gastropubs which allow pets, and so on. Other supplement sections are no better. 10 ways to improve heart health, 10 secrets for sleeping well, 10 tips for saving energy. It is all crap.

Many times recently I have vowed never to buy another weekend paper. I still do, and the reading process involves a rapid page turn to see if there is anything interesting to read, rather than the experience I had hoped for which is a prolonged period of enjoyment reading several articles which are interesting and provide quality insight.

What is one to do?

[PhilW]

To begin with lists.

Completely agree that lists have reduced journalism to the lowest level of quality. Open any Saturday or Sunday paper and turn to the supplement sections for examples of this. The travel section is a serial offender. Top 50 places to go in Turkey, Top 10 romantic bolt holes in Siberia, Top 20 gastropubs which allow pets, and so on. Other supplement sections are no better. 10 ways to improve heart health, 10 secrets for sleeping well, 10 tips for saving energy. It is all crap.

I agree that many articles presenting lists are just quick lazy work, though not all - some can be very well thought out helpful or even insightful, but sadly they are the exception and lists have become quick and easy ways to generate content/revenue for many mixed media. Similarly, I have noticed a trend with a technology magazine I buy regularly that when reviewing products in an area, rather than a thorough examination of candidates with a specific focus (which they used to do well), most reviews these days feature a selection of disparate items and/or miss prime candidates, as if "some info about some products in the area" is somehow a substitute for a comprhensive covering of the particular product focus, which it is not. Although I still subscribe, I am not likely to do so for much longer, I think.

[djewesbury]

Obviously the answer is stop reading wine magazines when we have all the required expertise here, at our fingertips.
Now, who'd like a commission to write up the 'Top 20 posts in Meaningless Drivel in 2014'?

[AW77]

The media wouldn't have switched to bullet point journalism if people still had time to read. So this was just a move to adapt to an ever faster pace of living. (I don't want to defend this kind of crap journalism, I just want to point to the root of the problem.)

[LGTrotter]

The media wouldn't have switched to bullet point journalism if people still had time to read. So this was just a move to adapt to an ever faster pace of living. (I don't want to defend this kind of crap journalism, I just want to point to the root of the problem.)

I am unconvinced by the idea that journalists think we are all too busy to read. If that were the case I would not be getting about a wheelbarrow worth of assorted guff each time I buy a weekend paper. A glance at the latest novels all of which seem to start at 600 pages also undermines this argument.

[djewesbury]

The media wouldn't have switched to bullet point journalism if people still had time to read. So this was just a move to adapt to an ever faster pace of living. (I don't want to defend this kind of crap journalism, I just want to point to the root of the problem.)

I am unconvinced by the idea that journalists think we are all too busy to read. If that were the case I would not be getting about a wheelbarrow worth of assorted guff each time I buy a weekend paper. A glance at the latest novels all of which seem to start at 600 pages also undermines this argument.

Hmm. I tend to agree. I think journalists write this rubbish because that's all they're paid to write; because newspapers can't turn a profit any more and can't afford to employ anyone better.

[LGTrotter]

The media wouldn't have switched to bullet point journalism if people still had time to read. So this was just a move to adapt to an ever faster pace of living. (I don't want to defend this kind of crap journalism, I just want to point to the root of the problem.)

I am unconvinced by the idea that journalists think we are all too busy to read. If that were the case I would not be getting about a wheelbarrow worth of assorted guff each time I buy a weekend paper. A glance at the latest novels all of which seem to start at 600 pages also undermines this argument.

Hmm. I tend to agree. I think journalists write this rubbish because that's all they're paid to write; because newspapers can't turn a profit any more and can't afford to employ anyone better.

Wouldn't it be great if there was someone, who was a regular, for instance, who had some experience of how to write critically. Eh, Daniel? Someone like that could help, I would have thought, eh, Daniel.

[djewesbury]

If you are suggesting that I should consider getting into this idyllic world of free wine and free travel, then please carry on caressing my shell-like with the details of your proposal.

[AW77]

Daniel, could I act as your personal assistent in this free wine and free travel business?

[djewesbury]

Daniel, could I act as your personal assistent in this free wine and free travel business?

Consider yourself hired, as soon as Owen outlines my business plan.

[AW77]

Now Owen, what's the plan? We're all ears!

[djewesbury]

Now Owen, what's the plan? We're all ears!

Yeah come on, how do I break into this world of pleasure? I'm ready.

[jdaw1]

I'm ready.

Young padawan, you have much to learn. For the pleasure you are not ready, and for you, the pleasure is not ready. Learn patience.

[djewesbury]

I was born ready.

[djewesbury]

[LGTrotter]

Now Owen, what's the plan? We're all ears!

Yeah come on, how do I break into this world of pleasure? I'm ready.

Errr... Don't pressure me I'm thinking.

How about we fake articles about port in the style of famous wine writers (oxymoronic I know, but stay with me) panning a particular vintage, or bigging it up depending on whether we want to buy them or want to cash in, thus manipulating the market in the same way as Parker, not that he fakes anything M'lud, or would in any way be party to fraud. But I suppose we could ask if he would be prepared to lend us his reputation, come on what's the big deal, he's retiring isn't he?

Or we could fortify Riesling, have it served in a jam jar by a bloke in ill fitting red jeans with a beard. Make a mint. Job done.

[Alex Bridgeman]

I like lists in my Sunday paper. When lying in bed with a hangover you can read the first three items, get bored, stagger to the bathroom, stagger back, fall back asleep for another half hour and then pick up where you left off. If I try to do the same with a 600 page book I have to go back and reread a whole load of pages.

Don't diss the list!

[PhilW]

Now Owen, what's the plan? We're all ears!

Yeah come on, how do I break into this world of pleasure? I'm ready.

Port futures trading? Clearly the best port ever will be produced in 2020 (since it has a zero on the end), so invest heavily now in futures, or even better create a market where everyone else can invest and you take a trading percentage. For everyone who invests in the scheme, use the funds to buy lots of old port, which you then have to drink at "marketing" events (tastings, possibly held in London and/or Porto) each week to discuss the merits of different old ports to attempt to predict what the future ones will taste like and make recommendations, to get more people to buy into the scheme. Name yourself Ponzi.

[djewesbury]

I'm in!

[jdaw1]

This week’s Wine Folly has a dreary and unremarkable What is Port Wine? (Apparently “Port is a sweet, red, fortified wine from Portugal. Port is most commonly enjoyed as a dessert wine because it is rich and sweet.”)

But it is enlivened by a picture: recognise the lagars? (Click for larger.)

[Glenn E.]

But it is enlivened by a picture: recognise the lagars? (Click for larger.)

They look vaguely familiar, but since all lagars look vaguely similar that's not saying much. It does make me think of Crasto, but given their shirts perhaps it is Quinta da Leda?

[DRT]

The t-shirts have a "LEDA" logo on them. The one worn by Joanna Pais in the centre of the photograph being particularly clear.

[Alex Bridgeman]

And is that Ryan and Gabriella Opaz to Joana's right?

[DRT]

Yes, I think it is.

[Glenn E.]

I believe so. I also think I recognize the other gentleman opposite Ryan, but cannot bring his name to conscious memory.

[LGTrotter]

I considered starting a thread in 'Port conversations' about the following but decided on here.

The article in question is entitled "fortified wine's final generation?" and can be seen on wine searcher here.

Let me begin with the question mark at the end of the header. It is usually designed as a rhetorical flourish to draw the reader in and suggest a open minded exploration of the story. It has degenerated into what it is here; an acknowledgement that the writer began with one story, found contradictory information and decided to press on anyway.

The laziness of shoe-horning all the major fortified wines into one story seems to have become evident to the writer. But still he persists, driving for the line and his five hundred words or whatever he was told to write. The snatches of quotes from sommeliers point first one way, then another. He ducks from port, to sherry and puts in a picture of some bottles of madeira for no readily apparent reason. First we are reliably informed that the port habit is dying, then that sales are increasing. Tell us Mr Lawrence, which is it? Is this supposed to be a qualitative, or a quantitative review? But it is no good asking as plainly he has no idea either.

My only joy in this article comes from the comments at the end. I would draw the attention of readers to Carl. He at least has a clear narrative. But I have never heard anybody with a glass of port in their hand use the word "dude". Perhaps this is something for Adrian Bridge to address, when he appears doing product placement in the next James Bond movie. And no Mr Bond, I do not expect port to die.

[DRT]

Given your review I am inclined not to read the article for fear of being infuriated.

But Adrian Bridge in a Bond movie does have some appeal.

[Doggett]

As an aside, as this thread was revisited... I have just bought about 200 old copies of Decanter magazine from someone de-cluttering. I now have most issues from 1975-1979 and then from 1989 until now. I have been slowly going through them to build an index to the port articles. Whilst I agree that the magazine can often be a disappointment, going through the back issues has been really interesting and thrown up some real gems. As well as the vintage tasting reports, old port adverts, old prices/auction reports, there are some great features on the challenges and changes the industry was facing in the early 1990s, a wonderful article about Quinta do Vesuvio (recently after the Syms acquired) and some great interviews of the time with George Sandeman, Bruce Guimareans, Adrian Bridge, Dirk Niepoort and I still have many issues to go through! (I have got to 1998 so far)! One thing I have noticed, is that there seems to have been a much more regular focus on including some port based journalism in past years compared to nowadays, but I suppose that reflects the much wider and more diverse wine world we have today.

Whilst some maybe accused of dumbing down their journalism...there is still great and informative writing out there if you are prepared to look through the lists of great articles to find it

Simon

Ps. Any unwanted issues from 1979-1989 gratefully received.

[LGTrotter]

Given your review I am inclined not to read the article for fear of being infuriated.

Having read through my post again I see what you mean. Sorry. It is an article which has some port content in it, albeit based around the imminent death of the port industry, a topic which has been the main topic of journalism about port since 1927. Or is it 1727? Like the novel it's demise is announced most years.

[LGTrotter]

As an aside, as this thread was revisited... I have just bought about 200 old copies of Decanter magazine from someone de-cluttering...Whilst some maybe accused of dumbing down their journalism...there is still great and informative writing out there if you are prepared to look through the lists of great articles to find it

Eek! An optimist in our grumpy ranks. In my gloomy defence I would refer readers to the title of this thread. If there is a need for one entitled "things are quite nice really" then I will contribute, but perhaps sparingly.

But I have to confess a liking for looking at old issues of wine magazines and Decanter's port auction pricing often makes me marvel at how cheap things seemed. Oh no, this optimism seems to be catching. I had better go outside and contemplate a dead fish in the rain.

[LGTrotter]

That's better. I have just remembered that entropy dictates that the universe is bound for nothingness, thus rendering all human endeavour ultimately meaningless.

[PopulusTremula]

That's better. I have just remembered that entropy dictates that the universe is bound for nothingness, thus rendering all human endeavour ultimately meaningless.

Surely the drudge of daily life ought to have made that blatantly clear without anyone having to resort to high brow academic findings with fancy names?

[Alex Bridgeman]

That's better. I have just remembered that entropy dictates that the universe is bound for nothingness, thus rendering all human endeavour ultimately meaningless.

Isn't that paraphrasing the underlying theme of Douglas Adams' seminal works?

[LGTrotter]

Isn't that paraphrasing the underlying theme of Douglas Adams' seminal works?

I think it was the opening line of a Bill Bailey show, "just to put the gig in some sort of context".

That's better. I have just remembered that entropy dictates that the universe is bound for nothingness, thus rendering all human endeavour ultimately meaningless.

Surely the drudge of daily life ought to have made that blatantly clear without anyone having to resort to high brow academic findings with fancy names?

Then a response to this mentioning the ineluctable modality of the visible could be seen as doing it deliberately. And I wouldn't want that.

[LGTrotter]

Anyone who has been following the Dragon 8 auction stuff and the redoubtable Maureen Downey will have come across another form of 'journalism' common in all forms of print but most common in free newspapers the land over. It consists of printing a press release as though it is a story.

The back story is that Gil Lempert-Schwarz threatened to sue Maureen Downey over some accusations she made about an auction which his company was putting on. I have mentioned this somewhere before and Andy has joined in on "wine berserkers" about some port which was in the auction.

The idea, put forward in the 'story', that Mr Lempert-Schwarz dropped the case because Maureen was so poor and he was too rich, successful and busy could perhaps have been challenged more vigorously, or indeed at all, by the journo involved. But no, a 'fine wine editor' padded out the press release and put it up on 'The drinks business' pretty much verbatim.

The story has been updated and appears here.