Roussillon Fortifieds
Posted: 20:38 Sun 26 Feb 2012
I’ve recently found myself drinking more fortified wines from Roussillon and was wondering whether others on
enjoy them? I am currently sipping my way through a 1985 Rivesaltes from Arnaud de Villeneuve. Waitrose is selling for about £13.50 for a 50cl bottle which makes me think that these vin doux naturel probably offer one of the highest quality to price ratios I’ve seen in a non-discounted supermarket wine. It knocks the socks off things like the 10-year-old Warre Otima which would sell for about the same price; you’d probably have to pay for a 20-year-old tawny to get a wine of equivalent quality.
The main problem with these wines, though, is that it is almost impossible to buy them in the UK. Berry’s sells three: a Banyuls and two Rivesaltes. The 1985 Arnaud de Villeneuve is the only vin doux naturel I’ve seen in a UK supermarket and most wine merchants don’t stock them at all. It’s a great shame because so many are very good and enjoyable. In addition to the aged Rivesaltes which are rather like a less-sweet tawny Port, I also enjoy the occasional basic Banyuls or Maury which are similar to ruby Ports but made with Grenache Noir so have a softer, more approachable flavour.
The other big problem with the wines of Roussillon is the dizzying quantity of appellations and styles within them. It’s probably as bad a sherry, with red and white wines, some oxidised, others not. However, as most seem not to be available, it is rather academic. Though I imagine a few weeks in the region, accompanied by a Catalonian tee-total driver would be a nice way of sorting them out in your mind...

The main problem with these wines, though, is that it is almost impossible to buy them in the UK. Berry’s sells three: a Banyuls and two Rivesaltes. The 1985 Arnaud de Villeneuve is the only vin doux naturel I’ve seen in a UK supermarket and most wine merchants don’t stock them at all. It’s a great shame because so many are very good and enjoyable. In addition to the aged Rivesaltes which are rather like a less-sweet tawny Port, I also enjoy the occasional basic Banyuls or Maury which are similar to ruby Ports but made with Grenache Noir so have a softer, more approachable flavour.
The other big problem with the wines of Roussillon is the dizzying quantity of appellations and styles within them. It’s probably as bad a sherry, with red and white wines, some oxidised, others not. However, as most seem not to be available, it is rather academic. Though I imagine a few weeks in the region, accompanied by a Catalonian tee-total driver would be a nice way of sorting them out in your mind...