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A good level on this bottle, very top shoulder. Very dark, lovely deep ruby with bricking in the core, somewhat cloudy. Cork fell apart; should have applied steam before pulling.
Blackcurrants dominate, amongst very juicy, taut acids. A little floral character, I'm thinking violets, right up front. Silky; gorgeously, luxuriantly soft, but granular with working and having a very biscuity dryness in the mid palate. Tannins are very soft indeed, merely brushing the gums. Then smokiness, no heat, even a little bacon. No farmyard here though. Tart, bitter currant finish, of very good length - a couple of minutes at least, though I didn't want to keep the glass away long enough to find out.
This didn't die during the evening, rather it held itself together really admirably.
Noble and inviting, like one's first view of the Duchesse de Guermantes. My glass is being refilled - and the decanter is empty!
